OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

If you guys are interested there is a pretty informative thread on the conversion here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-approach-lighting-power-fold-yes-wip.194043/
It's a pretty good read

 

I know this thread hasn't been updated in awhile but I just purchased a used Tacoma and found this mod very useful. After doing some digging I actually found non-factory replacement highlander mirrors on Amazon for a better price than OEM. All the reviews state they work as perfect replacements so I'm going to try them out.

$49 Driver Side Heated Mirror Glass w/backing plate, Toyota Highlander US Built, 5 15/16" x 7 1/2" x 8 3/8"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EC0YMO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $31.05/mirror PRIME

I was able to piece together a basic kit including mirrors, relay & socket, add-a-fuse, and heated mirror switch off ebay for ~$100.

 

What switch did you use?

 

This is the one I used. This vendor had them in various colors and claim they work with the 2nd Gen. Tacoma.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-switch...ash=item3ad11c1af5:g:wlMAAOSwKtlWoA8h&vxp=mtr

 

I have the same, only thing that sucks is it stays on until you press it again.

 

That switch can be converted to a momentary type and then use a timer relay rather than a standard type. You would need to modify your harness a bit to make it work but it could be done if you want a single push to activate the heating for a preset amount of time.

 

I emailed AOB to see if I can exchange it for a momentary because I didn't know to specify it to be. No response yet. Any insight on how to do this @Up2NoGood? The link that the other poster had is dead on how to modify it.

 

I haven't done it myself with an AOB switch before but I have custom ordered them in the past to be momentary. I'm sure they can probably send you instructions on how to do it.

I've converted other switches though and it's usually a thin metal rod that physically latches the switch in the pushed in position like the pics below. Just need to snip it out so the switch can't latch anymore.

 

After doing some more research I have realized that regardless of momentary or not, you will still require some sort of timer relay if you do not use the factory switch. You still end up ahead to not use the factory switch price wise if you are piecing a kit together. If this switch is indeed an on-off and not momentary then you just need to purchase the correct style time delay relay. Hopefully Up2NoGood doesn't mind too much, but I did some digging on his thread and researched the type of time-delay relay he uses. The one he has chosen is for a momentary style switch, but they do make this relay in another variation for on-off style switches.

He is using a negative switching style which means that there is always +12V to the mirror heating element and when the relay is activate it provides ground. I think I plan to use a positive style switching which means you need to provide a ground and the relay switches the +12V on and off. This way I can ground the heating element of the mirror to the door and eliminate the need to run both power and ground wires completely back into the cab. I'm still doing some research and haven't received my switch yet, so I would like to do some final fact checking before pulling the trigger on a time-delay relay.

If yours is an on-off style switch then I would recommend http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-t.php. It's up to you if you want the positive or negative style, but my initial research tells me either should work fine. With this relay when you turn the switch on it will turn on the mirrors and start a timer. When that timer runs out the signal will turn off (turning your mirror heaters off) and wait for your switch to be turned off to reset the relay. If you turn the switch off while the timer is still running it will turn off the signal and reset the relay. This is all shown in the timing diagram provided on that page.

If you have a momentary switch then I would recommend the http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-mc.php. This works similarly in having a cancel function, but since the switch is momentary you must press it a second time to turn it off.

I hope this info helps you out Sub_Par, but unfortunately means you are going to have to spend a little more dough to get your system working properly. Other wise you must just remember to turn the switch back off. I haven't done my research, but I'm going to assume based on all the timed-off designs that it's not recommended to leave the mirror heater on for an extended period of time. I tend to be a pretty forgetful person about small things like this, so I'm going to purchase a relay for piece of mind.

 

I appreciate the post, I have been doing some research and have come to same conclusions. I spoke with tech support for AOB and they told me how to convert the switch to momentary without sending it back to them. I also have already ordered a positive switching TDR-MC relay and just need to wait for it to come in to fix the wiring. The only other thing I need to do is modify the switch so that the led will stay lit while its heating and then turn off when it's done. So yes little more money to spend but it's not much so I'm ok with it.

 

So I noticed on the switch the top light comes on when the switch is on. The lower light is able to be wired separately however. Are you planning to make the lower light come on only when the mirror heater is on? I would personally prefer the lower light come on with my dash lights and the top light to be on when the heater is on. Like I mentioned earlier I don't have the switch in my hands yet so I'm not sure what type of modifications are feasible.

 

Nice and informative post. I don't mind at all that you researched through my options... I'm usually helping a few people out in PM that are building their own system with any questions they might have. I do use the negative switching option on the relay due to how the Toyota Under the AC switch is built, it's just a less complicated way to integrate the two together.

Using the AOB style switch you should be able to have the relay providing +12v without any problems. Even though it's a bit of a pain to run wires through the boot between the door and the cab I would recommend grounding the mirrors in the cab rather than on the door. I originally figured grounding in the door was the best option too, but found that the ground path between the door and the cab was only linked through the door hinge itself. It was okay for most trucks, but for some the mirror would not properly ground in the door. You could always check that first with a multimeter though.

 

The upper led is for when the switch is on and the lower is independent and can be wired to another switch so it comes on with headlights and dims properly. I modified my switch to be momentary and I'm also going to order a diode to modify it to light when the mirrors are heating and stay lit, otherwise as a momentary switch the led will only be lit for the time your pressing the switch.

 

Thanks for that heads up! If it's been an issue I will probably just go ahead and the ground into the cab. I'd prefer the assurance.

I'm not sure I follow you on that one honestly. When you wire that up post up some pictures if you have the chance. I'd be interested to see how you are going to make that work.

 

Sorry I meant that you wire the illumination separately so the words heated mirrors lights up when the headlights are on. Most people will tap into the illumination circuit on a nearby switch for this.

 

Did a little modifying to the switch today. I removed the pin to make the switch momentary. Then I modified the the circuit board so that I could turn the top LED on when the heaters are on. I cut the trace for the + side of the led on the opposite side of the resistor. This way I could run my own power to the led when I wished. I got a little hasty and accidentally cut the wrong trace at first so I had to make a solder bridge to correct for that.

Notice the cut trace near the switch. Don't do that if you plan to follow this mod.



It got dark out before I could finish everything today. I also just ordered the timed-relay so I will be waiting about a week before I fully finish.

 

Hey how's this turning out for you? You modified the switch differently than another member on here so I'm curious how you're going to wire it up. I just got my new timed relay in and was hoping to swap everything out this weekend, but I'm still unsure how to modify the switch to turn the led in while the mirrors are heating.

 

I'm still waiting on my timed relay, I believe it arrives today. Last weekend I ran all the wires so I just need to get the relay in a finish hooking things up. I plan to connect the output of the relay to both positives of the mirror heaters and the new wire I added to the switch. I cut the trace that linked the positive side of the top LED to the switch contact and then soldered that wire you see. When the timer is hot it will now provide power to the top LED on the switch.

UPDATE:
I finished the wiring and everything worked perfectly. I connected one wire off the L terminal of the relay and sent it to each mirror and then the additional wire on the switch. The top light only comes on when the heaters are on. Other than that I wired as normal. It took me some time to figure out how to time the relay properly. One big hint is make sure you flip the switch nearest the center of the relay, this will allow it to time over 2 mins. I skipped quickly over that part in the instructions and spent way more time than I should have adjusting the knob. I believe every half turn equated to about 30 seconds. I ended up timing mine to ~ 5:30.

 

You take any pics of the wiring?

 

here is what I used mad life very easy
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...hUKEwjFpdjK69jQAhUEjVQKHUE-BlwQ9A4IhAE&adurl=