Stock final gear ratio 2.7L 4x4 5sp trans?

Part of your problem is 20's are fricken heavy.

 

Well dang. I was hoping I could fairly easily do a gear swap in my driveway. I'm pretty handy and have taken on a fair amount of stuff that would scare most shade tree mechanics. But you're right, if it's not just a straight swap of parts I might be in uncharted waters. My nemasises are repairs that require fine tuning (like valves, carbs, timing, etc). Sounds like this might be similar to those bug-a-boos that trip me up. Despite how easy some make it look on YouTube! LOL

I took some pics on my drive in this morning to give you an idea of my rpms at highway speed. I guess these don't look all that out of whack. I just don't have any power in the 2250-2750 rpm range in 5th. I might have to accept that it's more a product of the 187,877miles on an underpowered 4cyl. Haha.here's some pics- feel free to comment on whether or not a gear swap would make any positive change. My power comes back at about 80mph (2700 rpms or so). Dropping it into 4th at 70 angers the 4 squirrels. I can't afford to anger the old squirrels too much.

 

Ya, they weren't my first choice but I have a buddy who was fire-selling them and I needed new tires anyway. They came with pretty good pirellis (again, not my first choice). I was planning on mashing some 31-33s on there anyway so this bought me some time with good tires. Here's some before and after pics of how she looks after I plasti-dipped the chrome wheels. A little more "sporty" looking and less "off-road" looking than I want.

 

Alright bro...Come clean.....tell me more about this black strip down the bottom of your truck..


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rhino-liner-used-as-paint.463615/#post-13809158

 

Well, I didn't have any encounters with deer or other hazards that caused paint chips, but the front of the rear fender flare (where they stuck a clear protective sticker) and the front bumper were looking like hammered dog s@$t. Since the rig had about 150-160k on it I wasn't keen on having the whole truck repainted. I did the front bumper first and it looked odd without some sort of tying-in to the newly painted black flares. Just my opinion. So I settled on that location for the bottom of the doors/bottom of bed paint location. I just followed a truck line as to where to place the masking tape. If you do it, get some good stuff like frog tape. It makes better lines. I first stripped off any wax/road grime with either naphtha or acetone (can't remember). Just so the bed liner paint adheres nicely. I used the spray bedliner stuff first -Rustoleum I think. It added a little texture and wasn't terribly difficult to clean. When that started to need some touch-up, I made the mistake of using the hurculiner stuff. While it's very durable, the texture is IMPOSSIBLE to get even, so I ended up with areas with heavy texture and some with very little. It was your basic sh&$-show. I cussed it the whole time I used that stuff, which is roll-on. The texture bits are like recycled rubber chunks (small) that are mixed in to the paint. It all settled to the bottom very quickly, so you end up stirring it every time you need more paint, which produces a different distribution of rubber grippy pieces. That's a long winded description to say this: use the spray bedliner stuff for anything you see. U can use the roll on hurculiner in the bed and underneath, but I would advise not to use it on the body. I wish I could go back.

Anywho, that bedliner stuff holds road dirt like a sponge. Good thing is that it doesn't look dirty. But when you wash it, the soap and water will be black as it rinses off. Overall I'm happy with the choice to paint it with bedliner. It's pretty easy to touch up. Keep in mind that the touched up spots will stand out as they'll be shinier than the faded stuff. You'll end up painting a whole door bottom, or the whole bumper if you need to touch it up. The black fades to a more matte finish over the course of a month. I'm in S Florida, so it might fade quicker here than up north.

Long enough answer? LOL

 

Thanks man

 

Also, just to help a brother out...

Up in the top right, you'll see "thread tools" on any thread you've created. Click on it, and one of the options is "edit title".

 

Well that was embarrassingly easy to find. Thanks man- fixed it.

Why would TW make that separate from the "edit post" tool? Just seems odd to not be able to edit the title in the post editing section. Just my opinion.

 

Every post gets the edit post option. Edit title goes with the thread, not your posts. It's just how this iteration of TW works. Who knows what we'll see in the next update...only The Bob knows.

 

If you're handy like you say, check out ECGS. They'll mail you an entire 3rd member with the gear ratio of your choosing, swap them out, and mail in your old diff for like $400 back.

 

Your situation is a result of the rim and tire choice. 5th isn't meant to have power it's a cruising gear. if the road is flat sure but other than that slam hee into 4th and giver. 180k miles is nothing the 4cyl isn't even tired yet. my 4cyl truck has a lot bigger and heavier things on it and it performs just fine. there are hills here that have me in 3rd gear at 4k rpms for 10 minutes lol

 

That's actually a really good idea. The question is, how long will it take to recoup the $400 in gas mileage savings? Maybe another question is, how long before I can't take the weaker 5th gear? LOL. I don't plan on going back to smaller rims/tires so maybe I'll go this route when I'm at my limit of irritation.

 

I'm a flat-lander here. All is good unless I have a head wind. And forget it if I have a 10mph headwind and a bridge run-up. LOL. I hear ya tho. 190k ain't all that much for a well maintained 4cyl. When I had my valve cover off about 25k ago to change the gasket, I was really happy with how clean everything was. Virtually zero deposits or grime.

The only problem I really have is an undiagnosed vibe at 40-70mph and an egg-shaped wheel feel at low speed. That's for another thread, tho. Im getting the feeling I either have a cv axle(s) issue, front differential bearing slop (or both), or a drive shaft wobble. Wheels and tires do not change the vibe/wobble. Engaging 4wd might (stress:might) make a little difference, which is why I'm leaning toward the front end being the issue. I whacked a curb pretty hard in the front driver's side that led to my needing to replace the wheel bearing. I did it twice on the f/d and the last time I changed out both. (Hubs too just in case one was bent). Really annoying that I can't diagnose it.

 

Sounds like your drive shaft angles aren't cancelling each other out, with the wobble feeling you mention. As is often the case when lifting these trucks, it sounds like you have multiple issues that you need to chase down one at a time.

 

The official Toy parts reference sez that for your '06, the ratio is 41:10 (4.1).

This will help quit the guessing on the effects of tire size, diff ratios, RPMs, gear ratios, MPH and on and on. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

Try front diff needle bearing... and it's possible you have a bent rim