3rd Gen Remote Start Using OEM Remote

Wires are wired correctly. Instructions were followed.

 

Bad dball? http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136438&tpn=2

 

I think that's what i'm going to have to do. I see myself screwing something up if i do it.

 

Can anyone recomment what size posi-taps to get for the various gauges of wires that need to be connected for this job? It seems the wires in the steering column are a bit of a different size than the ones below at the can and bcm. I realize soldering would prob be better but I would rather go with the posis and use the proper sizes. Thanks in advance!

 

Posted in the pre-order thread, but I ordered the assortment pack to see how they were. The smallest are 20-22 and I tried them on the dball wires which are 24AWG in the pictures below. The obdii wires are smaller and the ECU wires looked to be about the same size as the dball wires. They do make a 24-26 but @MVBassYak actually used the 20-22's and they seemed to work fine though so maybe he can comment here.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tacomas-preorder.464235/page-10#post-14009850

 

I installed my blue and red plug at the same time and then reconnected the battery (so technically, that should mean they were powered at the same time) and pushed the start button twice to program it. Mine worked fine that way.

Did you disconnect the battery before install?

Also, did you use the self tapping screw and ground terminal that came on the kit? My ground wires were crimped too much when I got it and one of them was loose. I had to cut and crimp a new connector on those two ground wires. That might be something to check.

 

Did the 20-22 gauge on work well for the wires in the steering column as well? Those wires are quite a bit fatter so I'm guessing something around 14g would work?

 

Just because it "worked fine"doesn't mean it's correct. The manufacture has a plug sequence for a reason bud

 

Received my remote start today. Instructions are not as clear as what @gpb has provided on these forums in regards to pictures so I will print those pics out and follow them.

I did see in the instructions that you have to plug the red connector in first then blue then program dball.

 

Watch the video along with the instructions

 

Of course. I hope to do this Monday since temps are supposed to drop next week

 

The DEI instructions seem to assume the battery is already connected prior to making any connections to the dball. It's reasonable to assume you don't want to power the dball by connecting the blue 14 pin connector followed by the red 12 pin in the same way you don't want to connect the d2d connector from the smart start with the dball already powered up. I'm no electronics expert but does the dball really care what order they're connected prior to the battery being hooked back up after being disconnected?

 

Yes if the power is connected first (blue harness) it can send a pulse to the

$59 dball2 databus all combo bypass module

dball2 which and stop dead or complete through the vehicle.

Again they have a sequence for a reason. It can also damage the unit by connecting red first or both together. It can also damage only the d2d connection making it not able to accept a smart start or

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xl202

Connecting the battery with the dball2 plugged in can result in damage or send it on a trip. Not I'm not saying always just that it can happen and I have seen it.

 

Yes, the DEI instructions are very specific that "The

$59 DBALL2 Databus All Combo Bypass Module

DBALL2 module must be disconnected from any power source before Smart Start can be connected to it. Failing to do so could damage DBALL2" (emphasis theirs)

Makes sense. Usually best to power stuff as the last step (14 pin blue). While we're used to hot pluggable stuff like USB and HDMI cables, they're far more the exception than the rule.

 

If you just tape the ends of the headlight wires coming off the dball then nothing should happen to the headlight switch or headlight wiring in the vehicle because the dball isn't connected to anything if I'm thinking this through correctly.

 

So to ensure I don't screw up anything I plan to leave the battery (power & ground) connected so that I can test each oem wire on the harnesses to confirm I have the correct one.

I will connect all the wires from the dball harness to oem wires with the dball harness unplugged from the main unit. Then once all connections have been made I will plug in the red connector then the blue connector onto the dball main unit then move onto programming.

Am I safe to do it this way?

 

Bingo

 

I've tested it. Dont do that. What will happened is : you will remote start the car and if the 20 min remote run time expires without you opening the door(example: remote start the car and got carried away with something) the lights will come on at the end of cicle and never shut down unless u open a door

 

Thats for auto-lights vehicles

 

Correct

If your not gonna connect auto lights you have to turn the lights off when exiting the vehicle.