Remote Start Kit for 2016 - 2017 Tacoma's IN STOCK

Where in NC?

 

I currently received mine from KB Voodoo. Unfortunately I am not going to install it. It is for sale I am looking to recover what I paid being this is still brand new sealed in box. $130 shipped.

 

Oh man, I used to go to Asheville all the time for mountain biking.

 

well darn, that's about 4hrs from where I am. Maybe someone else is closer and could help.

 

Come do mine in Wilmy

 

Ha, I'm actually from down that way, well technically Leland so just across the bridge and my parents still live out near Riegelwood. Heading down that way Friday-Monday for New Years and usually get down a couple times a month. Below is mine. Ended up tidying things up a big more after that picture.

 

Well if I have any trouble this weekend ill be contacting you

 

It's not too difficult. Just give yourself plenty of time and don't rush. Also not sure if the directions with the kit have changed but I'd move the slc wire to the smart key ecu assembly also to save yourself the trouble of removing the steering column. The threads below should help.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ing-oem-fob-2017-tacoma-push-to-start.466230/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/detailed-review-nickjs-kbvoodoos-remote-start-kit.465105

 

Is the steering lock connector the wire the instructions have us removing the steering column for? Your saying its the same as C29 pin 23?

 

Yes just like the PTS wire runs to the C29 (smart key ecu assembly) pin 16, the SLC wire runs to pin 23 on that same connector. @gpb tested and confirmed our hunch from the service manual and now both of ours are hooked up that way.

 

And whats the difference between the two wires? Does the module act differently? they're obviously different wires

 

@PJnc284 is correct. The service manual gives a wire harness test procedure that suggested the opportunity for an easier install and I did the test myself to confirm.

The pins on the smart key ecu are where the wires from the SLC and PTS go to.

See my post here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...using-oem-remote.463996/page-32#post-13987320

Feel free to use the original DEI locations if you want, I just figured it'd be easier to use the other end of each wire.

 

It's the same wire, same color and everything. Instead of tapping the wires at the PTS or SLC connectors themselves, you're tapping where those wires run to the ecu.

 

I prefer to tap the SLC (Steering Lock Control) At the steering column because your tapping directly to the module itself. You can do it either way thats just the way we were tough in school. Its the "safer" way.

 

Finally finished up the installation today, had to wait on FedEx to bring me some Posi Tap's, and everything works great!!! Mine probably isnt the cleanest install but with everything buttoned up it looks good lol

 

How'd you like the posi-taps? Already installed mine but I grabbed the assortment pack (10-22AWG) just for the heck of it. The 24AWG dball wires fit snugly in the red 20-22 posi-taps but looks like the probe may be a bit too big which wasn't surprising. Would've been nice if they had included a 24-26 mini-tap too. The accessory wire on the end pulls out with a bit of force but would probably be fine as long as you're not hanging a weight off of it.

 

My first time using them and really like them. Much easier to use in small spaces compared to the usual 3M splice clips. I used the 20-22 post taps and felt that they were a good size. I stripped a good amount off the ends of the dball wires and wrapped around the metal contact point before tightening the cap. I have a decent yank on the first one and it was solid. Doubt anything is gonna yank the wires around under there lol.

 

Assuming you still just manually spliced into the 12V connection? The 10-12 I have doesn't look nearly big enough. (twss)

 

No need to cut into that one. You can disconnect the 12V plug and then carefully remove the metal connector from the white plastic connector housing via the release tab on the end that goes into the ECU. Once freed from the housing it's easy to solder your 12V lead to the crimp, being careful to not get a cold-solder joint. Easy to reverse leaving no real trace that anyone is going to see.

 

I did for that one. Was a piece of cake. Since I don't have auto lights the rest were easy