DIY tensioner arm pulley

So it all started here. . .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hissing-engine.456389/page-2
Where I jacked a thread after doing a search for what the fuck was making a hissing sound near the pulleys.
Found out it was the idler pulleys. Replace with the recommended parts but got fucked on the tensioner arm pulley (see pics in link). It seems some people have this issue and some don't (belt sits on half the pulley). I was looking at the old bearing and the new one and noticed that the inside diameter was exactly the same. So being the fucking genius that my wife doesn't believe I am, I decided to punch out the inner liner on the new pulley with some mcguyver skills. . . .
thanks @Sandman614 for all the info and a very much needed diagram

Things you'll need
4" 3/8 width bolt
3/8 nut (flange head would work best but I used a regular one)
11/16 deep well socket
Thick 3/8 washer
Vice
#1 (lower) idler pulley
Tools to reinstall (socket set, torque wrench)
1. Place 4" bolt through rear face of pulley. I chose the rear because after close inspection it seems that in manufacturing they press the inner piece through the front as indicated by the grease ring on the rear between the inner ring and the bearing.
2. Slip the threaded end of the bolt through the hex side of the socket.

3. Place the washer over the socket.
4. Screw on bolt just enough to hold everything together.
5. Align the socket directly over the bearing wall.

6. Place nut end of the assembly in to the vice and clamp down tight

7. Begin to tighten bolt on the top face of the assembly until it sinks into the bearing.

8. Release vice, flip assembly around and clamp onto the socket.

9. Continue tightening the nut until
The inner ring pops through the bearing into the socket


10. Celebratory beer.

11. Install back onto pulley arm, start your truck and listen to that fucker purr.


Just for reference here is where it used to sit


And this is why it wouldn't fit properly out of the box

 

@tcBob sticky?

 

So you only removed the inner sleeve from the new pulley? It's difficult to understand because you have pics where it looks like you're pulling something out of the old pulley.
Good pic from you're other post.

 

Sorry I should clarify. The pics with the old pulley is for demonstration purposes only. The new one had been installed so I just used the old one to demonstrate

 

Glad you got it sorted out! I wonder if they have 2 different spacers they use for that pulley. I did not have to press mine out but instead I want to say that it just pulled out by hand, was shallower, and a flange on it (like a T). I believe I turned it around so the flange was on the front of the pulley.

 

X2

 

@lsocoee sticky?

 

I don't think it works that way.

 

Sticky Please

 

The one I recently did was like this. All the pulleys were aligned right with the spacer in front. Must be a newer change.

Outstanding job to the OP for getting his right and sharing.

 

Yeah . . . I don't really know how it does work. Just thought this might be helpful as I've not seen any thing like this noted anywhere.

 

I am in Canada . . . . . Maybe different parts here.

It looks like the manufacturer did away with the loose pulley spacer and just pressed one in on the particular part I purchased

 

Does @tcBob 's 2nd gen tips and mods thread count as a sticky? That's where I meant to say I'd like this to go

 

I don't recommend this "mod" - using the lower idler pulley (Gates/ACDelco & others) #36174 to replace the tensioner pulley. The bearing is 7mm wider, and, when adjusted for backspacing, you lose about 6mm of bolt length. Since the bolt is reverse threaded, finding a 45mm long, grade 10.9 bolt is a challenge. I found one, from Belmetric, but it is $20 and you have to cut it down to size.

Instead, I found you can replace the bearing. I got a Nachi 5203-2NS bearing - I paid $19 from Amazon but price shot up to $38 right after I bought mine (maybe cause there is only one left in stock?) Bearing measurements are 17x40x17.5 . The 17.5 is the width and you can probably safely go down to 15mm but not much wider than 18 as it will stick out and you lose bolt depth. You press out the old one and use the old bearing to press in the new one (do not only press on the inner race - that messes up the bearing).

Ordered bearings to replace those in the other pulleys...

 

Is the 5203-2NS bearing used in all the idlers or just the tensioner?

 

Only the tensioner. The other pulleys appear to use a proprietary sized inner race, especially the lower pulley next to the AC. This one has a 10x42x26 bearing; the other two use a 10x42x13 bearing. I bought 4 15x42x13 bearings - this is a common size and they are quite affordable. I bought 15mm to 10mm reducer bushings for the bolt. The bosses on the timing cover are 21mm wide; so, I bought 1mm washers just in case. If these bearings work out, I may do a how-to thread.

 

Can the belt tensioner pulley and No. 1 Idler pulley be used interchangeably? Cuz look like the Gates part number is the same. I just want to replace the belt tensioner pulley only, not the whole assembly.