How do CTX65CS and CTX65 speakers sound...

I'm upgrading my 2009 Taco DualCab sound system so I have a few questions.

I'm trying to find out if anyone has installed the Image Dynamics CTX65CS in the fronts, and CTX65 in the rear of a Dual Cab. Okay, here is the kicker, using only the stock head unit and without a sub woofer or Amp.

I want to use a seperate tweeter in the fronts and of course the rears would be coaxial type but that fairly match. That is one reason for the specified Image Dynamics set, and that ********* sells those with the mounts as well, reducing overall cost.

Rationale: I can afford the speakers now, no sub or amp yet. I stongly desire to retain my original head unit as it performs all the functions I need and most aftermarket head units look out of place (not a factory type look). I don't want ear bleeding sound but will listen to some old Rock at fairly loud levels.

I am waiting on my order (in the mail as we speak) from RAAM Audio to deaden all but the roof. If I have extra I might think about tackling that but I understand the roof is not normally a problem.

I plan to run new speaker wires in the doors since I'm uncertain if I will install an amp but I don't want to do rework if I can help it.

Last question, does anyone know what gauge wire is used in the factory doors for the speaker wire? If they are heavy enough to handle 40 Watts RMS then I would retain the factory wires. I can't see installing an amp greater than 50 Watts per channel or a really good 25 watts per channel.

Thanks,
Joe

 

I can't comment much about using them with only deck power but for the money I truly feel they are some of the best sounding drivers out there. I almost always recommend them in budget installs because they dont sound like budget speakers IMO.

 

I have heard both the XS65 and CTX65CS. I have the XS65 but I was really amazed at how well the CTX65CS sounded in a demo truck. I was able to hear them in person. I listened to both the systems below and for the money I could not believe how good the CTX65Cs sounded. They sounded better than my $500 Focals in my last ride.

I went with the XS65s because they can handle around 150 watts because I like to tailgate. I think the CTX65Cs are only 100 watts. Not sure . .

Sorry no help on the speaker wire either.

I know this does not help, but I heard both these trucks. I have the same setup as the black one, but I went with a PDX4.150 in lieu of the 4.100 they usually install.

This truck has the CTX65cs and a smaller sub than my setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6rhFn5Rl5I&feature=related


This truck is the same is mine, but a smaller amp to the speakers the sub and amp are the same:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NP7T31GkS8E


They are not just loud but crisp, clean and awesome sounding. You will love the speakers.

 

..

Thanks to both of you for letting me know the speakers sound good. I'm pretty much already set to buy them unless I hear a negative comment.

I watched both videos last night. I could not gauge how well they sound from the constant clipping and distortion of the video. I'm certain it was the Camcorder causing it. I took a look at the PDX4.100 and 4.150. I think the 4.100 would be more my speed but it's still a bit higher in power than what I would ever need. I'm still looing into 35 to 50 Watt amps. Although I really did like the small footprint of the PDX.

So, here are the amps I'm looking at right now (in no perticular order)...
Kicker 08ZX200.4 offers 35 Watts RMS
Kicker 08DX200.4 offers 25 Watts RMS but I gather it's a better amp than the previous model.
Kenwood KAC-6404 offers 40 Watts RMS
Alpine MRP-F300 offers 50 Watts RMS and I like the small footprint.
MTX Terminator TN400/4 offers 45 Watts RMS but has active cooling. I'm not totally opposed to it but if the fan fails will the amp protect itself?

I'm looking at subs too but like I said before, not in my budget yet, but I may bite the bullet and buy a 4 channel amp when I order the speakers.

Still looking for the wire gauge on the factory speaker harness. I may just have to look under the dash to find out. I'm certain the wire is too small for 100 Watts but maybe it could handle 50 Watts. I guess that brings up the last question, what size wire do you NEED for 35 watts of continuious power? I'll never run 50 watts continuious or my ears will bleed.

Too many questions.

Hey, thanks to everyone helping me out. I really love my truck and upgrading the sound will make me love it that much more.

-Joe

 

Check out this wire calculator.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

Did you look at the PDX5? It is one amp that does all the speakers and sub in one amp.

 

Great link! No, I have not looked at the PDX5 but now that I know it exists I will take a look at it. Thanks.

 

When I first started my stereo upgrades I tried to push the CTX65 coaxials in my rear doors with a Kenwood HU that puts out 22 RMS. I had to turn it up full blast to even hear a whisper.

You're going to need the amp right off the bat.

There are great deals to be had on some of the other forums...

IE: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/classifieds

 

Get an amp for those because your stock deck is limiting the ability of those speakers volume and SQ.

 

I was at Best Buy a few hours ago and saw the Alpine MRP-F300. I like it's size quite a bit. Now that I've seen one, I think I'll buy one. The sub will have to wait but the amp I can buy next week with the speakers.

I can't wait to hear this thing. Now all I need to do is figure out if I need to run new speaker wire. As stated before, I won't be listening at really loud levels, no tail gate parties.

-Joe

 

I am running both sets...You are definetely going to want to amp these speakers to get their full capabilies and sound out of them. I have mine amped with the Alpine PDX 5.

 

Yea, I think I'm sold on getting an amp. I'm just figuring out were I want to put the amp now. Thinking on under the passenger seat. I'd place it under the drivers seat but my daughter sits behind me when she's in the back. She does that so she can mess with me I think. I think when I have the AMP in my hands I will know for certain where to place it.

So, I still haven't been under the dash of my truck to find out the speaker wire size, any one know? Unfortunately it's actually Blizzard conditions outside. It's like one of those Scifi movies where they are in the artic winter storm. I think the movie "The Thing" (the original) would best depict it. That movie scared the crap out of me when I was little.

-Joe

 

If you're looking for something small enough for under the seat (or glove box) without blowing a lot, I am about to free up my Elf 125.2 (same design as Arc Audio 125.2). It's only a 2 channel, but it will take care of half your problem and fits anywhere. I've been very happy with it. I'm switching it out for a 125.4 now.

http://www.elfaudio.com/mtAmps.html

Tiny!: (WxHxL) 5.4”(137mm) x 1.8”(45.5mm) x 7.35”(186.7mm)

PM me if you're interested.

 

I have read about those Alpine PDX amps having noise from them...so do some research before buying them.

 

I'd go with the other recommendations on here about amp'ing any speakers you get. The stock HU isn't going to put out enough power to make any quality speaker sound good at all. I have the XS65's for the front and CTX65's for the back, and running sound through a PDX 1.400. I absolutely love them.

I also recommend running new speaker wire. I don't believe the stock wire is the best to connect to an amp to a speaker. Besides, it's just easier running new wire to an amp... bypass finding the right wire and splicing altogether.

Also, if you plan to possibly add a subwoofer later, I recommend an amp like the PDX5. This way, your door speakers are amplified properly and you have room later to add a sub in. I know you don't want all the power, but you don't HAVE to run all that power... you can turn the gain down on the amp to a comfortable level so you're ears won't bleed.

Take a look at my install... I posted so others could see what's behind the interior walls of our trucks and get some ideas of their own.

Click here

 

Very nice job. Does anyone sit in the rear seat

 

Okay, I really like the PDX-5 amp but I have one concern. The inputs are all low level which means I can't use my factory HU directly. I need a level shifter which should be no problem. This brings me to another issue which I think will be easily fixed... The sub inputs, since I don't have seperate HU outputs I was thinking of using two Y adapters and connect the rear speaker inputs to the sub inputs as well. Unfortunately that means I can only control the sub level with the front/rear fader, not optimal at all. I was also thinking of buying a stereo volume control (5K) and input the rear speakers line level to the POT and the variable output to the sub imputs on the Amp. I'd mount the POT maybe in the coin holder, somewhere where it won't look like crap.

Any thoughts, I'm a very open mind at this point. I plan to order the PDX-5 amp in a few hours. I'm downloading the owners manual to take a look at it first.

-Joe