Hard wire a dash cam ?

I'd like to hard wire in a dash cam on my '17 TRD OR Taco. I'd want it to be powered only when the truck is started. Does anyone know of an easy fused 12v plug around the dash somewhere? I was thinking of looking at the brake controller plug behind the left side of the dash.

Anyone have ideas where I should look for power ?

 

@gpb had a pretty good write up on how to do it.

I'm cheap and buying a 12V socket to add was $6 at the local auto store, had everything else needed from previous projects.

So I just added a 12V socket on the drivers side behind the kick panel to the left of the fuse box. and used an ad a fuse there.
its out of sight and what not and if I want to move it its one little plastic nut I can take off by hand and then pull the little bit of trim off easy and then unplug. wire is ran up the side in the weather stripping and tucked into the edge of the a pilar and head liner. cant see it but easily removed.

Just added some tape to the socket as it seems it was wiggling loose when hitting bumps as my camera kept turning off. Works fine now and it took me about 5 minutes total to open it up, put the tape and close it back up.

 

You can get Dash cam Hardwire kit on Amazon or Ebay. something like this
http://www.spytecinc.com/dash-camer...U1A1vttOUeKkLNmXIUnn5C2g_oOxPZXoIEaAsBi8P8HAQ

 

Look at the AUX Power #1 & #2 fuses in the fuse block under the dash on the driver side. Either should be fine. They are switched with the ignition. You'll need low-profile mini fuse taps.

See my writeup for my F770 dashcam in my signature for more details and a link to the fuse tap I used.

(thanks to @Joe23 for tagging me)

 

Awesome, thanks fellas. @gpb I'm gonna go your route.

 

The automatic rear view mirror has a 12v feed that's more than adequate to power a small camera. It's power on with ignition and conveniently tucked in the upper console.

My setup:

Black Box G1W-CB Black Bezel Capacitor Model Dash Camera - Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Video Recorder - WDR 140° Wide Angle 4X Zoom Motion Detection Night Vision G-Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Camera/dp/B00P8F3LD0

GEREE DC DC Converter Step Down Module 12V to 5V 3A 15W Mini USB Output Power Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/GEREE-Converter-Module-Output-Adapter/dp/B00O6RFFMQ

 

I wired mine into the mirror. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dash-camera-choices.415173/page-7

SB

 

worth noting that viofo has released a new g1w dubbed the G1W-S using a sony CMOS sensor that has significantly better night vision. I review it here:


I compare my G1W-CB to the G1W-S, and its pretty much the same price on Amazon:

VIOFO G1W-S Wi-Fi Full HD Car Dash Camera with GPS Module

https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-G1W-S-Recording-Recorder-Capabilities/dp/B01MUSMZHQ

You can see my comparison of the G1W-CB on top, G1W-S on bottom:

 

is the s a capacitor model. i have already had a lithium battery version explode during the summer. not doing that again.

**just read it... very cool. good thing i looked i was minutes from ordering a g1w-cb how did you wire it up. curtain airbags are a concern of mine currently

@USDashCamera

 

order a G1w-s since I have a g1w-CB and its' been a soldier through 3 las vegas summers now. it actually was more expensive on ebay vs Amazon which is a new thing for me. On top of that it comes with the 3 mounts they normally charge more for on each of on the g1w series. seems like a no brainer the question is i assume it comes with a cig lighter plug in power source not a hardwire kit. does it still use the standard g1w power connector and hardwire kit?

 

Like others here have done, I wired my A119 to the 12v from the mirror. I originally had the hardwire kit from spytec but it wasn't working in cold weather so I bought the hardwire from Hitcar and it's working good now. I used a 3amp fuse since I wired it directly from the mirror wiring. Posi tap connectors work great, much more reliable than the old t taps

 

sorry I should have been more specific this was in reference to the g1w-s. the g1w series requires 5v normally

 

The A119 also requires 5v. The hardwire kits use an inverter, tap into 12v, it puts out 5v via mini usb connector.

 

no way to grab power from the mirror without actually tapping the wire right? I'm superstitious about taping into factory wires probably will run a hardwire up the a-pillar using an Add-a-fuse rather than taping the wires on the mirror. That overhead console just pulls down even with the crawl control, moonroof controls etc all mounted up there?

 

Buy a fuse tap. Mine is tapped into a fuse and all the wires tucked

 

The only thing I've seen, other than the add-a- fuse, that wouldn't require tapping into the actual wire would be a MirrorTap but I believe that company only makes them for radar detectors, not dashcams. I have a Trd off-road and can confirm the overhead console with crawl control just pulls down. Pull down both rear corners, then the front corners, then you can disconnect the electrical connector.

 

I was just looking at those lol, yeah 12vdc cams only. I'm trying to find the connector they use the little probes and get that mini step down above. Is there actually room above the console to leave that stepdown up there? seems like i'm going to end up at a specialty store with a picture of the connectors trying to figure those out. I like the idea of avoid airbags while not cutting into the factory wires. so basically a hybrid solution of both directions people are going. the other issue to be aware of is the MirrorTap has an inline 2A fuse so if I used that quick math would suggest that the little mini stepdown could possibly blow that fuse if it were to actually pull 3A through it at 5v. odds are low of that much draw but i'd rather not pop that fuse and have to replace the entire cable because of it. is the auto-dim mirror on its own fuse? if so anyone know what it's rated at. can't imagine its not on a larger acc fuse somewhere is the 15A range

 

Not sure about the fuse on the auto dimming mirror. To address your other question, yes there is more than enough room above the headliner next to the overhead console for any wiring, inverters, fuses, etc. If you've never seen posi taps, check into them, they are very easily installed and removed and only put a small pinhole in the wiring. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, your hybrid solution sounds like a good idea as long as you can find the right pin things that tap into the connector on the mirror.

 

I looked at them, I am considering using them they are way better than a t-tap that's for sure. that way I won't have a wire running up the mirror to the headliner and down to the camera. it would be a cleaner look. I could also put an in line fuse to the stepdown. the stepdown is the biggest concern since some are known to explode in smoke and flames. which wires (as in color) did you tap. did you grab both the positive and negative or just the positive and ground to something above the console? and what gauge are those wires probably doing the same thing hit car + posi-tap seems like a safe solid solution

 

It's been a few months, I don't remember what color the wire was, but you can remove the connector from the mirror and use a voltmeter to determine which wire is 12v switched power when you turn the ignition on. I can pull down my console tommorow to confirm the wire color if needed. I grounded to a metal bracket thing that holds the overhead console clip...used a self tapping screw.