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Can you program the afrcal to richen it up? I'd call Gadget. I thought that was the whole point.

 

No coming this Saturday but if it's only in closed loop that's not my problem, when I go into open loop is when I have this problem. It goes into open loop a lot quicker than what I originally thought now that I have the device to tell me when it does..

As above you only use the afr cal for closed loop, I originally thought that I wasn't going into open loop until I almost went wot and the afr dropped but it actually goes into open loop with not too much throttle input.

 

You have to tune the AFR sensor calibrator. It comes set up for the 5VZ. Gadget said that is WAY off from what the 1GR needs.

 

Yeah he will just leave it neutral which is value of 10. Again that's only in closed loop so with mine being lean in open loop don't know if that will help much...

Are you sure yours is staying stoich in closed loop not open loop? Do you have a scan gauge or other obd tool to verify when yours is open/closed?

 

How do you know you are going into open loop so early?

 

I have an obd Bluetooth running dashboard command on my iPhone. Coworker let me borrow it today. It's actually the normal operation I believe, gadgets been telling us all along that anytime you have boost you should be in open loop which is my case it's just that I'm running super lean like 15.8

 

Mine runs the same as your moodywizard. That really sucks.
How else can we alter open loop then besides a UCON?

 

My AFR cal should be here Saturday. If I have time, I'll try to get it installed and let you know how it goes.

 

MAP ECU 3 or new ECU with TRD flash maybe.

 

I just don't understand why so many people are having so many issues

 

Why isn't magnison doing something for all the issues/bullshit that's plaguing everyone?

 

Fuck this sucks balls. Yeah map ecu3 or ecu with trd flash somehow. Gadget actually posted on xrunner about something I need to call him tomorrow on.

 

Maybe they don't know.

 

I'm still going to play devils advocate. Just because I'm still trying to sort out what the correct AFR response should be.

That being said, the dyno result sent by Magnuson (posted on page 167) , with the suggested AFR numbers are considered similar to the TRD reflash, and safe for our engines. (According to Magnuson). They say they have SC owners running with this tune with 150,000+ miles.

I was skeptical to hear this. As many of you would be I imagine. But the TRD reflash, and the Magnuson flash has to be similar right??? How else would anybody currently installing a SC, be able to run with the TRD reflash. Many have claimed the TRD flash is richer, but I'm not so sure that's correct.

I searched around to find someone to post their dyno result with a TRD reflash from a while back. And Found this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-s-c-dyno-results.156782/

Again, with his TRD flash. His AFR doesn't drop until around 3500-4000 RPMs, with about 4 lbs of boost. Very similar to Magnuson's current tune. And this post was 6 years ago. Granted I haven't searched further to see if this member's engine has blown up since then.

So....I'm really torn on what to believe what my AFRs should be. I'm no master tuner, not a mechanic in the slightest. I'm just a guy who put a SC on his truck, with the SC manufacturers suggest tune. This thread has made me very worried about the health of my engine.

I get my truck dyno'd on Friday. It will obviously give me a sense of what my ECU is doing. And go from there.....

 

That's the point! it is good that it is droped. the best part of that dyno that it doesn't go higher than 14.7! rich is fine, it make diference just for your MPG, but if you will go lean ( more than 14.7), temperature will go up and that is what make us scary( and blowing up engines(

 

I get the sense that many want the AFR to drop sooner, and claim for the health of the engine, it should. There's only been a few people on here who's AFR went above 14.7 (correct me if I'm wrong)

 

Didn't read anything but the last few pages, but I'll chime in, got my TRD blower before the discontinuation craze happened, just had some extra cash and swooped. Bought my 15', installed the blower around 300 miles, limped over to the dealer got the TRD reflash.

So look at my build with my mods for that info, but I can say that even with all of that, the TRD Reflash is still pig rich. I used to see my AFR pin out at 10 (lowest the gauge would go) under full WOT, now it'll bounce off of 10 every so often depending on ambient. Hard pulls in 3rd and 4th will usually have me around mid 10s or so. Still twiddling thumbs waiting for UCON.

As for AFRs while driving, im at stoich under cruising throttle, but I'll see my AFR dip almost as soon as I move my foot. Just bouncing my foot in 6th at cruising speed the AFR will jump around, which is how it should, you increase throttle, which lets more air in which in turn needs more fuel, hence AFR changes.

 

See that last paragraph says all we need to know. The AFR drops as soon as you give it some throttle at cruising speed. In my case it goes lean anytime I bounce my foot on the throttle unless I'm almost 3/4 throttle and above 3k rpm. Sorry I just don't feel confident running 6 psi of boost and running 16 on the afr gauge for long periods of time going up a hill. It almost feels as if the motor is nomrally aspirated unless I floor it.

Now a question for you, when you installed and limped to the dealer without the flash, afterward did you feel any difference in how it drove? I am speculating that when we do the return to stock on the bd it is actually returning to stock but the calibration id remains. I am going to call bd tomorrow to figure all this shit out and try to get some answers. After that call I'm calling gadget and ordering the ucon and find a way for it to work. 1500 is cheaper than a 4K motor.

 

I've tried contacting Magnuson through email multiple times. I got one email back telling me to contact Sparks Toyota because they sold it to me. @TIM.TRDSparks only sold us the kits. They didn't do the installation. I don't expect technical support from Sparks. I figured out early on that Magnuson obviously doesn't care and the only way I'm getting it right is to throw some more cash at it or remove it.

 

This is how I expect it to behave. Mine never really goes over 14.7 like some others are experiencing, but it takes a lot of throttle and RPM to get the AFR to start dipping down. The ECU maintains 14.7 until I give it more beans. But long before I get to that point, boost is at around 5psi.

Hovering at 5psi and 14.7 AFR doesn't seem right to me, regardless of whatever dyno plots people have posted. I've been pestering Gadget about the UCON. The last thing he said is: