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If this is only occurring in closed loop, the AFR calibrator should fix it. If it's happening in open loop, you'll need another solution. The AFR calibrator can only help in closed loop when the ECU is using the AFR sensors.

I feel safe with mine the way it is behaving right now, but I'm still planning to replace the ECU. Going to try the new ECU with TRD flash first and then add the UCON if it ever gets released for the newer trucks.

 

I'm going to be running the air raid Intake. Pipe is huge. Just hope I don't run into any lean problems.

 

Just curious what is the optimal afr?

 

Depends. Theortic optimal is 14.7 or 1 lambda. Under acceleration and/or boost in the 12's. There are tables out there that give recommendatilns based on various parameters. And all that is debatable as well.

 

Checked one more little project off the list.

 

I gotta get a catch can too. Trying to figure out what kind I want.

 

The Moroso kit is VERY nice. I did need slightly more hose than what came with the kit, though to put it where I wanted it. I had some extra hose around already so no biggie.

Moroso 85474 Universal Air/Oil Separator

$215 Moroso 85474 Universal Air/Oil Separator Catch Can

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K9BIY4

 

I think I'm gonna order one of these. Had one on my srt and loved it. Great product

 

I have cut it too 2 years ago when I installed the SC.

Now connected Unichip again and downloaded "Airad CAI 93 octane" map in it (the options I found were stock or this, 91 or 93 octane). Now it runs better, but LTFR is still 10-15. Pulls well at full throttle, AFR is 12.0-12.3 (Scangauge reading) and revs up to 5700 rpm now.

The biggest difference between the stock ECU map and TRD reflash: now it's in open loop much sooner, almost immediately when accelerating any harder, even without load (not moving) after 2100 rpm. So there is a bigger change to run lean if the LTFT is too much positive.

I desided to buy the Unichip Tuning Software, easiest way to get the AFR just like I want it to be. Now the need is to adjust open loop, closed loop is only active when cruising at constant speed.

Edit: UCON ordered

 

What's the point to install a oil catch can?

 

To catch oil.


Check out this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oil-catch-can-install-guide.231227/

 

IIRC the airaid intake is a hair larger than most intakes, but it still matches the stock TB.

It's fine, I'm just saying, if you truly want to utilize the larger TB, you should have an intake that can draw that much more volume.

 

Ugh, quite reminding me to do my catch can. Anyone in Norcal with small girlish hands? I can't get my hands under the SC to that back hose clamp lol.

 

I can't wait to hear how yours does!

 

be a man, just remove SC if it is bothering you!
Just kidding, i would use long pliers...

 

Yeah haha I've literally tried to cram my hand in there and it still won't go. TWSS.

But yeah I bought some like 12" long need nose to hopefully reach in there to get the clamp on and off, just have to figure out where to mount the can since the 2 bolts for the mount are taken up by the coolant reservoir

 

Yeah I put my catch can on the passenger side. No room on the driver side, plus easier to remove and drain this way. You'd be surprised by how much accumulates.

 

I like it. I'll have to look in to that.

 

If you remove the rear vertical bracket which supports the SC to the side of the head and then work your hand from the front between the battery and the engine and under the SC it is a bit easier, still a biatch but easier.

 

I used a Harbor Freight rivet nut tool. Mark where you want the threaded inserts, drill appropriate sized holes, install the rivet nuts, profit.