Pop and Lock for 2016+ Tacoma

That's awesome! Thank you so much for the mod tip!

 

Is there no way to add this?

 

I have the model

$122 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 left over from my other truck (2gen tacoma) and was wondering if it also works for the gen3

 

I installed the Pop N Lock this weekend. It was very easy but time consuming just making sure to install it clean. I actually went under the passenger side instead of going through the engine compartment. Install looks clean, no cutting or poking holes necessary. Works great and I like that I can hear it lock. Not sure what the big deal is with some complaining about the noise of the actuator.

 

I purchased the

$170 PL8535 POP & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tundra, 2007 to 2021 Toyota Tundra, Truck OEM Lock, Anti Theft, Truck Tailgate Lock Replacement, Easy to Install, Made in The USA (PL8547TUN)

PL8535 and installed it yesterday.

Install took me about 3 hours, and I was meticulous. From the Pop-And-Lock I ran my wire through the existing wire run out the tailgate and into the back of the truck. Followed the existing wire on top of the frame along the passenger side zip tying every 8-12". There's a small rubber grommet right in the floor where a passenger's right foot would be in the back seat. Maybe 4" from the trim. If you push on it from under the truck you can see it through the floor. I poked a hole in that and ran the wire up into the vehicle. Used some GM certified silicone on the rubber grommet all around the wire on the outside to seal it. There's a depression in the body that allowed the wire to run flat with the floor, and a hole in the body inside the truck that allowed me to secure the wire with a zip tie. I ran the wire to the front passenger kick board and spliced into the wires.

All in all, I have approximately 8' run outside the vehicle along the frame, and about a 4' run inside the vehicle under the trim.

Works great.

Huge props to the following video, I followed it pretty closely except for running the wire all the way to the front of the truck.-

 

I just installed the Pop&Lock on my 3rd gen. It's pretty loud but so far works well. I just wired it to the driver's door since I have mine set up to open all doors with one click anyway. I drilled holes in the plastic strain relief parts where the factory tailgate camera harness goes through the sheet metal, and needed a drill bit slightly larger than 1/4" to fit the bullet connector insulators through. I also noticed the instructions tell you to test it first, then reconnect the battery. That won't work very well! I didn't disconnect the battery at all. Hardest part was routing the harness neatly up the driver's side, specifically getting around the fuel tank. Passenger side might have been easier.

 

I just installed this today and I've been looking forward to it for a while. I have the SR AC with key-less entry option so I opted to have it unlock only when I unlock all doors. I followed other folks' instructions to wire red green and green to blue... and had to swap the bullet connectors. I wonder if the actuators are randomly wired. No big deal, just conflicts with my OCD a bit.

A couple of things from my install that might make it easier for others later on:

• If you wire up the passenger side there is a grommet that on that side (similar to the driver's side Pop & Lock instructions); this is much easier than routing up to the engine bay.
• You can tuck the wire into the rear view camera loom. This is double loomed, so you need to run it in the smaller one first, then the larger one. It's still a tight fit, but you can get them to work with the factory clips without modification to the clips themselves. Removing the tailgate while re-looming helps a lot. Actually, I can't see a way to do this and keep the skin on your knuckles if you don't remove the tailgate for this.
• Reinstall the tailgate via the driver side and the two cable stays leaving the passenger side out. This will help you reinstall the guiding clips.
• The splice connectors that came with it didn't work at first, I had to go after them again with some pliers with an amount of force that seemed like it would destroy them. Use Polilock splices, I plan on making that change in the near future.
• Test it before zip-tying or redoing any screws.
• If you have access to steel wire fishing tape, this will make the routing a magnitude faster.
• The passenger side is a lot easier to route than the driver side. (This is from my experience installing the Curt trailer harness, which went up the driver's side).

 

Can anyone confirm what color wire to tap into for the Blue and Green wires from the harness? Mine is wired Harness Green to Red and Harness Blue to Green and it does not work?

 

I believe the wire is green to green and red to blue. Here's a link to another forum https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/page-15#post-12647855
Hopes this helps

 

That worked- thanks!

 

This is great stuff. I'll be buying a power lock soon. Just got a camper shell and want to have the added security.

 

Hey so i had just bought the poplock and followed exactly like everyone is saying however my actuator is not working. I went through to the passenger side and connected to the red and green wires, but nothing is happening when i lock/unlock. I will try and wire it in though the driverside on Monday at work and connect to the black and blue wires. There must be a difference between wiring from the access cab and the double cab.

 

Hopes this helps this is from another forum post 272
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/page-14#post-12303228

Edited: I just read the that you have double cab, follow post 49 in this forum and that will be the wire colors for double cab. The link I just posted is for access cab.

 

How does it not work? Is it just unlocking when you lock? If so swap the bullet connectors.

 

I got mine to work. The wire tap connectors didn't bite into the pop lock wires, which didn't complete the circuit. I ended up just cutting and butt-connecting the wires and it works fine now. I've never been a fan of those connectors for that exact reason and past experiences.

 

Huh, I've used those connectors a lot with no issues.

 

This kit worked very well for me but as others mentioned a little loud for my liking. So I dynamated the tail gate and it sounds a little louder now than the other door locks and not like a filing cabinet slamming. Score in my book.

Just an idea for those that are annoyed by the 9 to 5 reminder.

 

Lol I still don't get the loud noise issue. It isn't THAT loud, and I like that I can hear it working.

 

I guess it's a personal thing. I hate people slamming doors too. Enough about me enjoy the idea

 

I've gone through a good chunk of the posts on here and people seem to disagree on which wire harness it is. I have a '17 try off double cab and have tried a couple different spots all to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.