Airflow Snorkel Installation - Garfish307

As promised way back during the 1st Airflow group buy run by @mahaloTaco , here are my install pics. First - here are a few recent pics with my Snugtop shell at Petit Jean State Park in Arkansas - really beautiful up there.



A little snow flurry in March:

And hitting the trail in Kraemer, Louisiana:

Parts:

I was wise enough to not ask the wife's permission to buy a snorkel and also wise enough to buy a spare fender so that I would be able to tell her this: "I can put it back just the way it was at any time". Spare fender below with painters tape to enable marking holes and protecting the paint.

attaching the pattern (turns out I just barely made it):



Drilling the hole with

$30 LENOX Tools Hole Saw, Bi-Metal, Speed Slot, 4-1/8" (1772018)

this


Next, I did a first round of test fitting with the fender not installed on the truck- I must say that it did not give me a whole lot of confidence - see red fingernail polish. I decided that I needed to install the fender before drilling bolt holes (starting to get tedious).

Right off, I'd recommend that anyone attempting this to buy a wrench to remove the antenna nut - I didn't and it was a real pain.

got the fender installed and did another test fit; this time with white paint. The aligned a little better but still it didn't give me a whole lot of confidence. I was starting to believe that a test fit may not be the most accurate method due to the contours of the fender and stand-off of the bolts. I honestly can't recall where i ended up drilling the holes but I believe that I drilled according to the template location but may have cheated one or two of the holes just a hair.

I then removed the fender and proceeded to cut the air scoop and metal bracket

Back to the fender - drilled holes (I used a 3/8" bit but recall it seemed a bit large at the time - turns out the "slop" was necessary for adustment) and used galvanizing paint to seal up the bare metal. I also put this paint on the areas of the frame that were cut.

Side note - inside the air scoop, I notice these little holes. My guess is that this allows moisture to drain and that there is some sort of diaphragm over the holes to prevent water from coming back in (sort of like a check valve?). Anyhow - just thought I would make that note since this project is all about where water can/cannot enter. (and with that - i know that i need to look at waterproofing other areas of the truck - like gear boxes, etc.)

Onward - Next I installed the snorkel on the fender with blue loctite.
https://www.permatex.com/products/t...permatex-medium-strength-threadlocker-blue-2/

Then, I secured the air line and sealed it up with Urethane (really messy). Notice that I put the 90° Elbow through the wall first and then I installed the cut off section from the air scoop; just found it easier to do it that way. Note: there is talk about silicone causing O2 sensor malfunctions and that you must use alternatives - this is what i decided upon - Urethane.

This is what the air hose sub assembly looks like just before fender installation:

Re-Re-install fender and attach air hose with sealer - make sure to put the hose clamp in a position that it is facing down & also consider that they "walk" a bit when tightening:

getting there...in process of putting everything back together and getting all that Urethane off of my hands (note that it is late into the night at this point):

Hood installation (recommend predrilling holes in hose clamp because the self tapping screws were anything but that considering the hardness of the clamp material). note that the snorkel neck is sticking up a bit; this is to prevent pooled water from funneling down the tube and directing it around the outside of the tube. You do not want to put it too low or too high:

I attached the column to the snorkel using

$32 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fasteners Heavy Duty Industrial Use Black TB3550 1" x 10 ft Mated Strip Indoor/Outdoor Use Great for Metal, Glass, Acrylic, PC, ABS

3M Dual Lock. This stuff is fantastic and I have been using the extra 20' on all sorts of other projects. I have also pass through automatic carwashes (and not the touchless ones either - full on scrubbing ones) and it is holding.


Overall, the install required about a 4 out of 10 as far as technical know-how but was very time consuming and tedious. I'd recommend patience and protect your paint job in surrounding areas when going on and off with the fenders. In summary, It is over a year later & it turns out I still like it. Car wash tested too.


I have not noticed a fuel economy / MPG change either with the snorkel or the shell.

Supplemental info, thanks, and references:
@lemons post (I forgot about this one - helpful):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-airflow-snorkel-install.443155/

Also - Thanks to @Texoma for guidance as well - Urethane Selection

Info on Dual Lock:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/564564O/dual-lock-reclosable-fasteners-sj3872-sj3870-sj3871.pdf
https://www.itapestore.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Guide_ep_49-1.html

 

Awesome, I had been wondering about car washes with a snorkel. You feel like water being directed at the snorkel intake is OK going through a wash as well?

 

I've never had an issue with the car wash. Been through it routinely and always leave it running.

 

Great write up for all to see and use. Good job

 

thanks - and may the Schwartz be with you

 

great writeup!

 

@JayMac

 

Those holes are just that, drainage holes. They have nothing to stop water from coming back in. ARB Safari snorkel instructions say to seal them. As well as the other 2 near the air filter.

 

Hmmmmm..... Thanks for the note about the Safari installation instructions. I'm gonna think on this a bit. Some initial thoughts - impossible to never get water in - there must be a way for it to get out. Even most diving snorkels have a dump valve / flapper. In the case of a submerged, air-filled container, there would be hydrostatic pressure which would allow water to get in - in combination with engine suction (no forced air at that low speed). It seems the "right" thing to do would be to install a check valve over (or under) these holes. Not really following ARB instructions - but will dig.

diving snorkel purge valve...

 

I've had my airflow on for a year in all sorts of conditions. Air filter has never gotten wet or even damp. Unlike before I did the snorkel mod. I actually parked my truck shortly after installing 35s cause I was missing most of my inner fenders....

 

subed for install

 

2nd Favorite mod on my truck Installing the King suspension is still 1st

 

Great write up.

I know its a year old thread... (Just realized OP hasnt been seen since May)

Garfish or anyone else, I'm not wanting to tap into my A frame quite yet so I've been hesitant on going with a snorkel.

Have you had any issues or concerns since you've used the 3M Dual Lock tape? Highway or high winds any issues? Have you had to replace the tape at any time since you've had it?

If anybody can chime in who's snorkeled this route, that would be great as well.

 

I had to change the dual lock once - held up for a while but I was riding around for about 3 months with it detached before i realized it. No issues whatsoever. I routinely pass through automated car washes... go for it. I get a lot of admiration and questions about it - especially since I live in Houston-Harvey-affected area.

 

Just found your post, still holding up fine?

 

I have had my snorkle on for 3+ years now and no issues.

 

My 3m didnt last too long, i drilled 3 pilot holes and ran flat self tappers right into the A pillar with black silicone on them, hasn't moved since.

 

I have had to replace my 3M tape but also got a rivet gun....just have not had the time to get to this project.