3rd Gen Differential and Manual Transmission (6MT) Fluid Change

Just my opinion - I'm no expert and a ton of people here know a shit ton more than me but:
1) There's really no benefit I can see to overfilling outside of extreme situations. The majority of hardcore rock crawlers don't see highway time or much street time at all, but they do see severe angles (not to mention they're beat to hell). My truck sees a lot of pavement and not so severe angles (off roading consists of forest roads and the occasional beach trip). In any case that's not something I wanted to screw with on a new truck.
2) I have no idea whats in that T-case but the LF fluid is a rare bird and no one has bothered reproducing it. I don't know enough about what's actually in the t-case to experiment either. Just FYI it runs about $55/quart online. There are oils specified for brass parts in other conditions, so I would wonder why there isn't for the t-case unless there's truly something unique about it.

The samples will be UPS'd out tomorrow if I can get some time after work!

OA

 

I hate those Front Diff Plugs, when they finally break free its like they have 0 torque left, I smashed my thumb between the breaker bar and the concrete the first time I ever did them.

 

yeah, not sure. I don't see a point in putting more fluid than necessary. was just curious. I just put enough so it drips out the fill hole.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-case-chain-can-anyone-else-hear-theirs.202533/


http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731

Don't see anything in there that could be brass, and it looks like toyota LF is a 75W but no other descriptor. Can't even find a damn MSDS sheet for toyota LF. Now, it's just an issue of principle that I don't want to use toyota LF.

Our 2013 Audi t-case takes a non-sulfured 75w synthetic that ravenol makes for $15 a liter and is recommended as a replacement. We are up on 40k on the car and need to change that out soon so I think I'm going to order 3 liters of that to use on the car and hold on later for the truck. Leaves me with enough for both vehicles and my spill factor. If it's good enough for a lifetime fill on a questionable Audi t-case, thinking it should be good enough for a more robust tacoma t-case.

 

I think things just got a little weird with my google-fu.

You sent me down a rabbit hole and here's what I found....
I went ended up in Toyota's corporate/japanese site here: https://toyota.jp/after_service/car_care/yohin/sds/
I have no idea what this says but the first oil in the third red section says 75w(LF) with our favorite part number. Clicking that leads to: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/af...yohin/sds/pdf/Gear_oil/08885-02706_201606.pdf
Putting that into google translate gives us: https://translate.googleusercontent...06.pdf&usg=ALkJrhgZsvzRsfPG7yFaBz50igGpL94Nog

Looks like Exxon Mobile is making it for them.

You seem to know more about oil than me...obviously the MSDS sheet gives us content. Any red flags to you?

OA

 

So...I get from this: don't inject under your skin. What this means is, they injected under the skin of some poor human, or a rabbit/pig?

I know nothing about oil. What I know about oil is its 80-90% oil and then fractions of the other crap they put it in miligrams per liter that people argue about on forums.
It's as bad as antifreeze these days.

Mobil 1 synthetic 75W90 MSDS is:
http://www.saigulf.com/SDS/Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90.pdf

so...if the big issue of why people don't want to use Mobil 1 in t-case is sulfur breaking down brass synchros (IF they happen to exist in a t-case), then the sulfur crap in LF has a lower tolerance than Mobil 1. less than 2.5% active sulfur in LF vs less than 5% in mobil 1.

Guess the other thing is the phosphate esther amine salt. that's slippery stuff and an extended pressure lube: less tolerance for slippery stuff in LF. I GUESS that makes sense. Less slippery stuff in something with gears and chains? I guess I can see that.

It's like toyota asked exxon mobil to put less stinky stuff in the oil, and want to charge more.

Valvoline synpower uses a different element, something, something polysulfide. I've looked at this before for t-case as well. the syn power 75-90 has been rated as GL4 and GL5. the Valvoline synpower uses a nonreactive sulfide (the something something polysulfide) as the extended pressure ingredient that doesn't break down yellow metals. It also has friction modifiers for an LS so maybe its less slippy than the salty Esther. sounds like girl my gramps would have a story about. If my gramps was from the states.

This is analysis to paralysis. Part of me says: We are looking at something that is a large hunk of metal, and worried that a few mg of sulfide MAY damage this hulking piece of metal.
The other part of me says: crap that's an expensive piece of metal.

This is like, take 20 mg of something that may not be harmful, add heat and pressure to it, and it may be bad or may not be bad.

fuck it, I'm putting valvoline synpower 75-90 in the t-case. They have it at NAPA.
figure, how many gen2's are out there with no t-case fluid change, or have had it changed with mobil 1 75-90 and aint blown up yet?

Sorry for threadjack Mr. OP.

 

Less whale sperm


Ditto

 

Shit, is that what' in LF? is that why it's so expensive? Japanese have been whaling up and down the coast! now it all makes sense. the goo keeps the chains in gear!!!

 

COSTS A LOT OF$$$ TO GO DOWN THERE AND EXTRACT IT....sorry caps fail

 

Indeed...

Thats what makes it...so...STINKY!

 

drained rear diff @ 500 miles today, 3rd gen TRD Off road.refilled Lucas 85W/140

 

How did the Oil look after only 500 Miles?

 

i road tested about 4 miles to warm it up a bit and when i drained it it looked clean but seemed to have some condensation in it being very, very slightly milky. didnt have a coffee filter on hand to strain it through but did see some very small acceptable metal particles at the very end of the drain process.

 

Keep us updated on if you develop any howling.

 

fingers crossed. im in a 17' with a build date of 2/17. the made in Thailand sticker on my differential didnt leave me with much confidence....

 

someone sticky this please. Great post

 

great work OP

 

Sorry for the thread jacking, but has anyone used something like this instead of the hand pumps that attach to the bottle?

$174 Mityvac MV6400 Fluid Dispensing System for Filling or Topping Fluids, 1.2 Gallon Reservoir, Manual Pump, Pressure Gauge and Relief Valve, Auto-shutoff Valves, 5' Hose with Flow Control Valve

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV64...qid=1490196226&sr=1-1&keywords=mityvac+mv6400

Between changing the diff, transfer case, and MT fluid, plus the lower unit oil on the boat, it seems like it might be a decent investment? Any experience with something like this?

 

WOW!!!! I can't believe you went through all this trouble with photos, parts, lubricants, torque values and complete description of everything for all of us on this thread. I personally am extremely impressed and grateful. That sounds like at least a full six pack or more job. I'm sure the dealership mechanics don't replace washers and o rings or even own a torque wrench. And I've seen no where that the maintenance manual calls for any of those fluid changes. When I asked the dealer foreman how often to change each of those fluids he replied never or at 90,000 if you are really picky.

Toyota brags about their pride, quality and eagerness to get customers appreciation. But most customers don't know they are getting screwed over with minimal shabby service and workmanship.

I've never heard of that lab you referred to. I'm looking forward to your post on that subject.

Looks like I have my work cut out for me this summer before it gets too hot.
Thanks again. Dannyblues

 

Here's some more tidbits; I've done this every 30k on my truck, currently with 160k miles on her. I've gotten to know these components pretty well & made my share of mistakes that maybe can help someone. I've got a G2 2WD prerunner so this only applies to manual transmission and rear diff. From the pics, these components look identical in my truck compared to the G3.

I found that the drain & fill plugs really don't fit well with metric sockets. After rounding one on the transmission, I bought a replacement plug at Toyota and took it to a tool place to see if I could find a better fit. I did, with an English size. Fits perfect now, and have never had an issue with that since. I cant remember the sizes sitting here at work, but I think the metric is 22mm, and I'm sure someone knowledgeable can figure out what the equivalent English size is.

So, check and see if the metric socket is a snug fit before you start wrenching. Again I'm guessing these are the exact same parts on the G3. If it feels loose get one that fits & save some long term grief!

Also, I've found that when re-inserting both the rear diff bolts, it takes more torque to properly crush the new washers than the bolts and threads can handle. I really have to lean on it to properly crush & seal. At my 120m change, it felt like the fill plug slipped some and I was afraid I had stripped some threads. No leaks, but I went and bought a new fill plug at 150k just in case. I also decided I would use a plain flat transmission washer instead of a crush washer this time on my fill plug. Sure enough, the plug threads were ruined. When I put in the new plug/washer combo, I could tell the threads in the diff housing itself were damaged also. Bummer!! I cranked it down and luckily no leaks, hopefully no thread shards in my diff. I'm not sure what I'll do now - either never change the fluid again, or off to a shop for a proper repair. Not sure what to suggest for others, definitely use a good fitting socket and maybe pick up a spare plug at Toyota just in case. They are only a couple of bucks; you can get them all new each time and still save a lot over having a dealer do these services.

Also just FYI the diff drain plug was a mess like the OP the first time I changed the fluid, but clean every time after. Don't wait - a post break-in fluid change is probably the most important with all those metal bits flying around in there.

 

Subb'ed. Thanks for your efforts on this!