What's the best cheap thing you did to your 1st gen.

I always heard to stay away from the 3.0's for many reasons. Hadn't heard about engine sludge. If you don't find oil in your intake I'd say by all means don't do this. For me I only want the PCV to work in one direction because I don't want fouling of the throttle body. It is possible that it actually works better in the direction I am eliminating though.

 

3.0 Camry engine....now 3.5 Tacoma engine.

edit: nope, unrelated.

 

that's what I was saying, or trying to. when the system runs in reverse i.e. vacuum is greater at the intake air connection at less than wide open throttle positions...

 

That's the direction it should work at all but WFO.

 

no....that is backwards. Vacuum is on other side of throttle blade less than wide open.

@ wide open flow is pulling thru. Actually, vacuum drops to 0 everywhere.
It may SEEM like the air tube has vacuum but it is equalized to atmosphere.
Unless Forced induction.

Put a vacuum gauge where you blocked off tube....take a reading @ WFO

If it had a vacuum it would smush @ wide open

or @ partial opening by your theory.

Then again, I may be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

 

I guess that's what I meant to say. Vacuum pressure is greater at WOT on the CC breather connection. That's when the normal PCV direction reverses, pulling from the driver's side valve cover which does not have a PCV valve. That's the source of the oil

 

Whatever the case, it

It's not really vacuum, it's what? Bernolli's principle? something like a pitot tube.
Whichever, something is wrong somewhere else.

This is close enough....I think you should do a leak down test.
Mine stays dry.

Had to think though, so thanks for breaking my boredom. And hell, it may be (prob. is) a plugged baffle.

 

Now yur just using big words I don't know and that just makes me angry.

hear ya, I think there's some engine wear but not really anything a leak test will solve. Just doin' what many others have, not a mechanic or a chemist.

 

laughs. Like I know them. Shit.
It's fluid dynamics, I just looked it up. Can be applied to low mach gas so it works.

Point is, those systems are touchy, you won't see damage in your oil. In fact, where you first see it is a poor working PCV system.

 

I dunno... It's always interesting trying to figure out a new old rig. I'm hoping it was just that the PCV valve, grommet and hose needed replaced. The grommet was hardened and allowed the pcv valve to sit kinda cockeyed. The hose had cracks at the ends. Maybe I'll order the 16 dollar hose for the other side and put the whole thing back together, see if oil shows up again at the throttle body.

 

I had bought a similar one back in the day for a Nissan truck I had. Damn thing wouldn't stay on tight. Any issues with that one? It does look good under that Supercharger.

 

Locking glove box latch from a used 4Runner. I got mine for $20 on eBay with a key! Took literally 2 minutes to install. Don't give me thanks tho. Props go to @thunderone I got the idea from his build thread.

 

Awesome idea! Thanks for posting it. I'll have to keep an eye out for it.

 

No issues, no leaks, and have 30,000 on it so far,

 

OK, so I thought I'd come across another brilliant hack regarding the clutch pedal on a 2000. It seems the engineers failed to fully realize the design of the return/assist torsion spring, fitting it with plastic bushings at its mounting points in the pedal bracket. This leads to bushing failure, squeaking as metal to metal contact occurs and failure to return to the cruise control cutout switch, making cruise non-functional.
I was wondering why the new old truck I bought had no cruise.
So I followed the spring mod. - found a #70 and installed it, took out the torsion spring. Cruise works but man is that pedal stiff. After looking I found this over at TTORA. The process looks a bit more involved than it is made out to be. For instance you can't just buy these bushings at Lowe's or at least I couldn't. I did find them on Amazon however

$32 Bunting Bearings DPEF030508 Dri Plane (C) Flange Bearings, Powdered Metal, 3/16" Bore x 5/16" OD x 1/2" Length x 7/16" Flange OD x 1/16" Flange Thickness (Pack of 3)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8XA51G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and ordered them up. I am fully expecting to have to drill the pedal bracket for them but maybe I'll get lucky. I would really like to retain the original pedal feel and get the cruise online at the same time.

 

No drilling needed:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-squeak-new-bushing-design.76599/

 

Wow, that's good to know - for the other aspect of this project! I was just addressing the spring-end connections where the bracket is now all wallowed. I saw in the TTORA post the guy put a sleeve on the center connection but it wasn't the same as this one. Think I like this one better, and yes it appears you can get it at Lowe's. After reading all this it appears that is the major source of slop and the first part to go. Would make sense as there was no trace of that one left, just the spring end ones and some wallowed out bracket holes.

 

I'd go outside and work on my rig right now but I'm afraid the ghetto birds might swoop down and get me. Think I'll head over to creative security instead. - SHAMELESS PLUG

 

Interesting, but I would never lock it tweakers don't give a rats about busting up your dash to get .65 cents in change and a dried out pack of gum

 

I think its one of those things where if its a stock option then why not add it. I like scrap yards for that reason