Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

I have a 2012 V6 with 62K miles got the dreaded 2440 and 2442 codes, which means I am also stuck in limp mode. Thankfully my pump is fine. I'm going to take the valves out tonight and see what I'm working with.

I have read several threads on this problem, but I wasn't able to find the answer to one thing. With the Hewitt bypass kit, why does my system need to function properly before I install it? I hate to spend $450 on a new valve, install the bypass, and toss the valve back in a box.

 

mine is a four cyl and I just have one valve. I just took the gasket off and traced it onto a piece of sheet metal then cut it out. then i coated the block off plate with copper coat then put the plate where the gasket was. now exhaust gas can not get to the valve and it should remain clean. my valve works fine, it is my air pump that was bad. I took my air pump apart while I had all that crap removed and resoldered a broken wire on one of the brushes. but in disassembly I destroyed the impeller on the pump. now, my air pump motor runs with no impeller and the valve works, but the sensor on the intake pipe does not sense air pulses so it throws those codes sometimes on startup. on a 4cyl these parts are easily removed, but on a v6 it's probably more difficult.

 

I am new to the forum and just received my first P2442 on a 2012 V6 TRD. I griped to everyone at the dealership and made the call to corporate (800-331-4331) who are reviewing my case and getting back to me within a couple of days. Depending on how that ends up, I am planning on replacing the Valve that is stuck open myself. Do you gents recommend that I also replace the foam filter and plastic fin in the pump while I am in there? Will that help against any future expense or pump failure?

P.S. 50k miles

 

Follow-up from my conversation with Toyota Canada and contacting the SM at the Toyota dealership;

On Monday I called the SM at the dealership, explained the situation and that I had already spoken to Toyota Canada with little results. He took the case to Toyota Canada on my behalf. The SM just called back and said they would assist in the cost "good will" gesture so the initial bill was $1500.00 + tax, with Toyota Canada and the dealership taking some responsibility in the repair cost the bill is now $807.00 + tax which I am fine with. It helps restore some faith knowing that Toyota will stand behind their product.

 

Ask them to give you the part(s) and do it yourself. Save you $800+(labor ), which translates into you work two hours for that much. I'll do it .

 

Add me to the list of victims - CEL popped on this morning throwing code P2441, Switching Valve stuck closed, bank 1.

Thanks to everyone previous for the photos, video & part #s, as well as the Toyota service phone numbers and tips regarding the "goodwill" warranties. I'm in CA, so here's hoping the super-special California Emission Control Warranty makes a difference. I'm ready for liberal over-regulation to have a positive effect here.

 

You should be covered under the CA 7yr/70k emissions warranty.

 

I replaced the valves today on my 2012 4.0 @ 62K. It was a pretty simple and painless process. The exhaust flange bolts for my front valve were heavily rusted under the head, and they snapped almost instantly when I tried to remove them. Thankfully they broke off in the bracket which was being replaced. Picked up a couple M6x20's at the hardware store. Other than that everything dropped into place. I cleaned and re used the exhaust gaskets as they still looked good as did the exhaust pipe mating surfaces.

I ordered PN "25710-31022 DIVERTER VALVE" from Toyotaonlineparts.com for $434.18. Great service from them. That part number included both valves, the mounting bracket, the rubber "F" shaped manifold, and the metal hose connector to the pump hose. Everything was assembled and ready to drop in. Total out of pocket is about $460 and about two hours time.

When I removed the valves I dumped out roughly a cup of water. Upon inspection, the valves are junk. The bolts were all seized, the gaskets are hard and covered in corrosion, the seal on the plunger is all burnt up and will flake off when touched. I can't move the plungers at all.

Left valve is #1 (closest to front of engine) right valve is #2 (closest to rear of engine).

 

Add your experience to the poll I started please. Making an attempt to tally some numbers regarding failures. @THE_END

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2012-owners-air-injection-poll.485197/

 

Copied my post to the poll thread. Good idea to consolidate the information.

 

YAY! Add me to the list..light went on yesterday..I took the top off the pump and noticed the foam was wet and under it sat water in the little ponds in the plastic molding. Today, I took it everything out and valves look similar, but not quite as bad as THE_END. Guess new valves for me.

One question though, I understand now why it goes bad, but just replacing will not fix the issue, it's the air pump design that is allowing moisture into the system that causes, correct? Technically, I should either replace the pump with the new design or just do the bypass(more likely).

2012 with almost 70k. Removal was a breeze for me. I have the pump on my desk drying out..also took all tubing apart to clean

 

Add that info to my poll please:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2012-owners-air-injection-poll.485197/

 

Already did

 

The way I understand it, the pump bringing water into the system isn't really the problem. Anything bringing in atmospheric air will bring in water to some extent. The main issue is that the pump never runs on shut down to clear the water out.

It is my understanding that 2013+ trucks run the pump both on start up and on shut down. This clears out the water and decreases the issue. Though from what I've read the 2013+ trucks are not immune.

 

I removed the foam piece and replaced the filter. I'm really hoping this helps prevent another failure. But it sounds much louder at start up than before I changed the filter. Is that normal?

 

Yes

 

Cool, Thanks.

 

I had the 2440 and 2442 codes. I tried replacing the air pump with an used part. After replacing the air pump I got the P0418 code. I then put the old air pump back and still get the P0418 code.

1) I am wondering if I have a bad valve or a bad air pump?
2) Is it worthwhile buying the Hewitt bypass kit? A new air pump is around $520 online.

Any help is appreciated. I am thinking of calling Toyota corporate tomorrow to see if they'll honor a new part.

I have a 2012 Tacoma at around 65k. The problem started at around 59k on limp mode. I kept driving and the limp mode went away, but I still have the engine light and trac off light turned on.

 

Boulder Taco, Did the new filter replacement workout for you?

 

The 2440 and 2442 codes are for malfunctioning valves. In my case they were both stuck open, which put my truck in limp mode. I'm not sure why you have a P0418 code after replacing the air pump. I would put your stock one back in, clear the codes, and see if the P0418 comes back. The danger of clearing 2440 and 2442 and continuing to drive is that they may stick open and allow hot exhaust to reach the plastic pump impeller and damage it.

According to several members the Hewitt bypass requires that your valves are in working condition when you install it.

Adding the unifilter to the air pump won't fix any problems. It's a preventative measure to stop the stock foam filter from breaking down and getting stuck in the pump fins and burning it up.

It sounds to me like you need to replace your valves. It is actually pretty easy to do. Remember to hold on to your receipt and file a claim with NHTSA.