Clutch pedal help. 5 spd 3.4l, 4wd

So I have a new clutch with less then 500 miles on it. But the pedal just kinda sags. After i shift I have to pull the pedal back up another inch and i have to do that when i start it up in the morning. Its been like that since i got the truck 2 years ago. A auto shop said it was the pedal assembly and priced me at 700 but said might be more to from the labor of putting on the assembly and buying the assembly. Any suggestions on how to fix it and if i can install the assembly myself. Also when i start my truck up it seems like the pedal isnt disengaging the cluth to shift. But after i drive a mile it works fine then.Any help is appreciated

 

mine used to do that when the bushings for the pedal were worn out. If the wear on the metal isn't too bad you can get bushings from Toyota for pretty cheap and install them yourself. I let mine go too long and had to replace pretty much everything because the holes for the bushings were oblong and not circular anymore. Either way its fairly easy to replace that clutch pedal assembly yourself

 

Look up #70 spring trick in google. There is a YotaTech write up about it

 

https://www.yotatech.com/f2/fixed-stupid-plastic-clutch-pedal-bushing-19137/

 

Thanks. Im gonna try the #70 spring and if it doesnt work then i'll buy a new assembly

 

I cant find the spring on the true value website anywhere.

 

should be able to take out your brake pedal return spring, bring it into an auto parts store and get one thats pretty much the same length and slightly smaller diameter preferably. thats what i did because we don't have the "#70 spring" in canada

could possibly be internal leak in your clutch hydraulics losing pressure if you have trouble getting it in/out of gear too. no puddles leaking outside but passing through seals internally. happened to mine and at least a few others that i know of. would sometimes randomly have to use my toe to pull pedal up. clutch master and/or slave cylinder. can cause intermittent issues and work most of the time. i would think thats more your issue, the return spring only brings the pedal up the very last bit

 

700 for a new pedal assembly sounds brutal how much do you trust that shop... doesn't sound right to me at all. took me less than an hour to fix my return spring

paid around maybe 500 for a shop to replace my clutch master and slave cylinders +new fluid parts and labor combined

 

Yeah check the clutch hydraulics and then the pedal - you can also make one of these for $3 or less:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-squeak-new-bushing-design.76599/

 

I had a similar issue with my truck when I first got it. After pressing the clutch pedal, it would go soft, requiring me to pull the clutch pedal back up using my foot. I replaced my master and slave clutch cylinder and the issue was resolved. Really easy job in my opinion. Replace both at the same time. my parts ran under $70:

$49 AISIN CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZDBE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and

$32 AISIN CRT-014 OE Matched Clutch Slave Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZDAW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double check these are the right parts for your truck.

 

Starting to not trust the shop as much as they left my front driveahaft un bolted after replacing the clutch..

 

Where do i need to check for an internal clutch hydraulic leak?

 

If it's internal, it's kind of hard to check for IMO. IDK about clutch masters, but when brake masters internally bypass, you take the lid off and watch the fluid when someone presses the brake pedal. The fluid level on a normal brake system should go down slightly but other than that remain pretty still. If it appears like fluid is flowing upward into the reservoir from the master cylinder when the brake pedal is applied, it's internally bypassing.

 

Okay. This morning it wouldnt even go into gear. Had to let it role down the drive way and pop it into gear.

 

After inspecting the hydraulics if they need replacing here's a decent DIY link: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/clutchmaintenance/

 

Yeah i dont really want anyone else working on it after my pass experience. I'll look at it after school

 

Just my opinion here. The root cause of the clutch pedal assmbly being at fault sounds very unlikely to me. If it is and the bushing holes are oblong, a skilled welder. (even I can do It) can weld up the Id of the hole and drill it out to restore them to round. I strongly believe it is a hydraulic leak (internal if no fluid on ground) at the slave or master cylinder.

 

Visually inspect the pedal and the torsion spring to see if it's mangled, and push the pedal with your hand to visually make sure it's pushing the clutch MC piston in and out right. That's easy to do and start with

Next check the fluid level and color in the MC reservoir. Check for external leaks or damaged hydraulic lines. If nothing external, next will be testing internal. Maybe have someone watch the fluid while you press the clutch pedal down and hold it for some time. You should be able to google ways to test it, nothing special or fancy about it just a simple hydraulic system

 

This. I forgot, check the spring first by just sticking your head under it and pushing it with your hand. If it looks like funky things are happening and there's no plastic bushing between the middle of the spring and the bracket it rests against then that's your problem unless you have a hydraulic leak as well.

 

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