ECGS bushing replacement and write up to follow

So you didn't need to remove the 35mm axle nut?

 

No sir I didn't. Removing the two lower ball joint bolts allows the entire hub and axle to pull out from the differential.

 

Thanks.

 

Subd for the good info!

 

Yeah when i did my bushing. the only things i had to remove were the tire and two bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.

Then I could swing the entire spindle / hub assembly out away from the truck plenty to remove the inner CV from the diff with ample room to pull the needle bearing out, and pound the bushing back in.

 

Hi, I am currently trying to pull my CV using this method but it's not wanting to come out. When you say tap on the inner cup which portion are you talking about. The thin metallic ring?
Thanks

 

use a small pry bar and it will pop right out

 

That's what I have been doing.

 

Try using a small pry bar and a hammer, put the pry bar on one of the machined flat areas and tap it out with the hammer.

 

This isn't what you want to hear, but may give you a little hope and help.
Just did mine last weekend and @aero3685 and I took about 2 hours to get my CV out. We had pry bars on both sides and even hammered on the pry bars all while slowly rotating the CV in small increments. Pretty much tried everything and multiple pry tools. I finally noticed at one point we hit a spot that felt like it had a little more give and less hard stop, but still wouldn't pop. We focused on leaving it in that spot not rotating it anymore and after a few tries it finally started to move, but never just popped out. Turned out the c-clip appeared to stick out further on one side of e shaft so we figure this must be where it was hanging up.

 

Thanks for the input. Yeah, I've spent a good 90 minutes trying to get this out I'm just reluctant to start beating on things too much when, in theory, the CV should come out fairly easily if in the correct position.

 

Yup, I understand that feeling. From the sound of it I suspect you have the same issue as I did with a flared out c-clip getting hung up. Keep gradually rotating the CV and pry a little against one side looking for that spot where it feels "springy". If you find something that feels like that, stop and try to get pressure on opposite sides of the CV with two pry bars(hopefully you have a second set of hands for extra leverage). Good luck bud!

 

Tap anywhere on the inner cup (i wouldnt recommend the metal ring as thats a sealing surface) but tap on the area where you pry on. a good solid tap. This will just jar everything loose an make the c clip fall to its lowest spot.

 

If I was to order from ECGS the gears for my truck, I wonder if they install their bushings in the front diff before they ship them out

 

Swimmer....how's it going? I found a photo of how I used the pry bar on the machined flat area, and then tapped on the curved end of pry bar....that worked the best for me. Hope you're done by now.

 

My window of work time was running out and I wasn't make any progress so I decided to put everything back together. I seem to have tried most techniques but nothing is working. It's possible I am not putting enough force on it but I really prefer not to go buck wild prying and pounding when it seems like that shouldn't be necessary. I'll have to plan a longer work time and try again. Really don't want to take it somewhere to get it done.

Were you rotating it and then smacking it until you found the sweet spot for it to come out or did you just whack it hard enough for it to push out regardless of what position the shaft was in? Thanks for the picture.

 

Didn't rotate it, just gave it a smack with a 2 pound hammer. Worked real good doing it this way.The first time I pryed it out and had a hard time, but placing the bar onto that flat machined area and smacking it straight out worked better for me.

 

hey guy's I've been reading this post and following along and I'd like some information from you if you don't mind. You say that the reason for this repair is because your trucks were shaking? Was the truck shaking at high speeds or at all speeds. I ask this because My truck shakes only at speeds above 60 MPH, and I have checked everything on the truck and everything is good. History of my truck: 2013 DCSB SR5, 3" lift, 285/70/17, installed 1 year ago, I did the install myself. I'm a diesel mechanic so I'm not afraid to fix things. the truck rides awesome at low speeds, but get it on the highway and above 60mph the truck shakes, steering wheel and seats. I didn't know where else to start looking next? After reading this post I think this may be the answer I've been looking for. Although maybe not what I wanted to here, I have never attacked a project like this, but I fix things everyday for a living that I know nothing about and eventually I figure it out and wa-la, I can fix it. I'm curious on your thoughts.

 

The simple test to see if the needle bearing is causing any problems is: drive untill your vibration occurs, then switch to 4Hi, if the noise/vibration goes away, then you need the ECGS diff bushing.