What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I see you started your build thread like I did tubbing for 35s

Welcome to TW

 

Washed, clay barred and applied Griot's one step sealant with a polisher that I picked up from Harbor Freight. I typically wax once a year to keep the clear coat in decent shape, but the waxes do not stay on that long. The Griot's has a synthetic polymer added to the sealant and they state 'long term protection'.

First impressions are pretty good, it leaves a very shiny look and feels very smooth. We'll see how long it lasts...



Hard to believe that this truck is going on 17 years... (purchased in 2000)

 

If anyone is looking for 13wl calipers for a tundra brake upgrade, there are a couple guys in this thread who went to bigger kits and are looking to get rid of theirs.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-brakes-swaps-and-tech.468271/page-3

 

Is the general consensus that cvs break at the joint, both ADD and manual? Broke one on Monday in the hub and it pretty much grenades the hole hub.

 

Do you have manual hubs? I think for add hubs it shouldn't affect the bearings in the hub at all.

 

Yes, broke a manual hub.

 

Yeah I mean all the add hubs have is the cv shaft going through and the nut, no moving parts to break. Never broke my cv yet but id assume it would break in the cage.

 

I'm pretty sure the shaft broke and the shock/damage from that broke the hub. Kind of defeats the purpose of just being able to unlock the hub and carry on. Just kind of wondering if any ADD shafts break in the hub. Might go back to that. It's not difficult to cut the boots, pull the shaft and carry on your way if you break one and don't have a spare.

 

Manual hub CVs are not as strong as ADD CVs.

 

Right, but does the smaller hub shaft end become the weakness? Just wondering where most cvs break. Is it common to break them in the hub? When I broke an ADD one before it was in the outer joint. I'd prefer it to break there so no damage is done to the hub.

 

no you are right it is usually the bearing cage that breaks on ADD ones. But anything is possible and you can break a shaft. Though that is more common with big tires going fast.

I know the outers on the manual hubs have a smaller spline count and the shaft is, for..whatever odd reason, smaller itself. The manual CVs i have seen almost have a taper to them as they go out. That could be the cause.

What were you doing when it broke?

 

Well since i cant stay focused studying for my Calc 2 and chemistry Finals, might as well tell you guys what im palnning on doing to the taco this weekend. After my last final on thursday, the bish is goin under the knife with frame plates, u-bolt flip kit from Front Range Offroad along with a shock relocation! Only if i make it through finals week though...

 

Sounds like fun stuff, I'd like to find time to weld a crossmember but this weekend I'm just lowering my rear end.

 

Descending this wall. I hadn't planned on my truck sliding forward and putting my driver front right into that rock. The plan was to turn before I was that close. I tried reversing to get the pressure off so that I could straighten the wheel and it went pop.



It's pretty wedged into that rock... It's much steeper than the picture makes it out to be. I didn't want to take the line to the left knowing that I was going to slide and likely smash the bumper before my tires.

 

how much travel does a stock leafpack with AAL have?

 

That'll do it. haha

 

Anyone know of someone/ a thread where they swapped leaf springs for coils?

Like taking the rear 4 runner axle and stuff and swapping to a Tacoma?

I've searched a little and found a thread but not really any info.

 

probably because it isn't a popular swap.

If you're gonna do links, may as well do a custom setup and get real travel out of it for the amount of effort it would take to put in a 4runner rear end.

 

Guess that's true. I'm probably not gonna do anything, just curious if it's been done.

 

One bad thing about ADD setup....when you snap a CV shaft you need to replace it with another. Unlike manual hunbs where you can turn the dial to unlock disengaging the hub and drive without a CV shaft, ADD shafts keep the wheel bearing in the spindle via nut and threaded end of the shaft. Without a CV shaft, that pressed in wheel bearing in the spindle will fail without proper tension (150ish ft lbs).

This happended to Mike @cynicalrider, granted it was with the spider gears on the diff side but same concept applies, he couldnt just pull the CVs and drive home. They had to be sacrificed.