1st gen Tacoma clutch

My clutch just went out and lost pressure on the pedal. I can hear the throw out bearing is worn out. Looking to upgrade to a stage 2 clutch. Any recommendations and advice I should do while the transmission will be down? It's going on a 2001 Tacoma 2.7L extended cab 4x4

 

How many miles? I changed the rear seal on the motor when I did mine.

 

Some options:

http://www.lceperformance.com/2RZ-3RZ-CLUTCH-KITS-s/16729.htm

Reviews:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13...lywheel-pro-clutch.html#/topics/143229?page=1

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/acs-performance-clutch-vs-lce-pro-kit.407332/

For what it's worth I have the Marlin clutch in my r150 and don't like how hard it grabs. I'm looking to replace it with a LCE unit when I get a fresh transmission.

 

Get a replacement stock clutch. Most "upgraded" clutches aren't an upgrade at all because they are heavier and grab hard. I've used both Exedy and Aisin with good results.

Marlin is the exception to the rule because his mixes and matches parts to build the best combo.

 

I replaced mine with an Aisin at 300k, feels just like the stock one when it was newer.

 

I put an Exedy clutch in my truck and have been very content with it in traffic and off-road.

 

Mine had an exedy in it when I got it. I changed trying to get rid of a notchy 1-2 shift (think I need to go in and replace damaged syncro parts). Used oem (from Toyota) and really REALLY like it better. Softer clutch pedal (not sure if the pressure plate is softer or what but it's very fluid and has almost no resistance). I even got a compliment from a lot porter at Toyota. Still grabs nicely and I've towed probably past my limit with it - no issues.

 

The stock clutch is fine for 98% of the people out there. When I say stock I mean OEM Toyota and not the garbage you find at Cockauto or Oh'Reallys

 

What 2% would you say the stock wouldn't work for? I'm thinking about doing 1 ton axles but with the right gearing I'm hoping my clutch should still be fine. that's the most extreme example I can think of and I think the stock clutch should still work great

 

With one tons I'm assuming you're going to be blowing over rocks n stuff. In that case I would go aftermarket.

 

I used the following and I love it. Higher holding capacity with the V6 PP and smooth stock like engagement.

Aisin 3rz disk
Aisin 5vz pressure plate
Timken Throw out bearing
Timken pilot bearing
Luk flywheel

I replaced the rear main seal while it was opened up. I also replaced the shifter bushing with a marlin crawler bushing and installed a URD short shifter as well. Truck shifts awesome now. Altogether everything cost about $350

 

hmmm the clutch that I took out was an Aisin one and I haven't noticed a huge difference ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Your pedal doesn't feel stiffer with the exedy? There's was a very noticeable difference when I swapped mine

 

My truck has 224k. I was looking at the OEM clutches and wasn't sure if I should get that or get SPEC clutch. I think I'm going to do the rear main seal to then. I've been told I shouldn't drain the gear oil out of the transmission and get new gear oil. What do you think?

 

I've heard a lot of people use EXEDY clutches. Is it good for a lot of road driving?

 

How much did the short shifter run you?

 

Stick with stock or a mash up like @boostedka has. You want the longest, softest engagement you can get in the rocks. That way you can take slack out of the drivetrain easily and not have a left calf twice the size of your right after a day of wheeling.

Long sad story, but I had both clutches new in my truck back to back in one night and I didn't feel any difference at all between then.

Go Aisin or Exedy, you can't go wrong with either. Aisin one has a nicer throw out bearing and the Exedy has a nicer pressure plate that has metal retainers for the springs instead of plastic.

Don't mess with the rear main if it isn't leaking, greater chance of you causing a leak putting it back together than if you just leave it alone IMO.

Yes, drain your old oil out and replace with a GL4 oil like Redline MT90 that is friendly to the brass synchros.

 

How many qt's did you have to use for the transmission?

 

Did you tilt the from of the transmission and pulled it down, or took the bed off and pulled it from the back of it, or could you just slide it back just enough to work on the clutch? Where do you measure to get the right clutch size, I've seen there's a 9 1/4" or a 10".

 

3 or 4, it's in the manual.

What? Use a trans jack and pull it straight out. You need a universal joint and a lot of extensions to get the bolts out.