09 Double Cab Complete Audio Makeover

I plan to use the Ensolite to cover the inside of the speaker leaving the bottom open. That will allow proper air movement while also protecting the speaker from any water that makes it into the area. Just to let folks know how much water can get in there... It's been a mild rainy day and while driving home I cracked both driver side windows to get a little air flow. I wasn't thinking anything of it until I pulled off the rear drivers side door panel and peeled the plastic away. Damn it was wet inside there. I towel dried it and will wait until tomorrow before I install RAAMat inside the door. It's tool late to worry about the front doors, I'll catch those tomorrow. I did remove the rear speakers and they were wet all around the speaker cover. This drove home the fact that the speakers need to be protected.

So my point is, the speakers could get wet if not protected and I just don't see many posts of folks replacing speakers mentioning protection against water.

The speakers I have are mostly plastic and rubber however the voice coil appears to be held in place by a fabric material which could wick water into the coils, not a good thing. I guess it could be waterproof but I'm not taking that chance. I'll take a photo and post it when I get to that point unless someone talks me out of it.

-Joe

 

What head unit do you have? You can try www.avic411.com

 

Yes, this is the site I got my bypass from... for my AVIC-Z2, the exact page is here... AVIC Bypass instructions. My unit is bypassed completely following these directions.

 

Hey man looks nice! I'm trying to do a system in mine right now and I can't remove the rear door panel. I can't get the window dash button to come off... and the hole after you take off the handle off, is way to small for me to reach in and unplug it. How did you do it?

Every single write up and every site that I have seen has avoided showing how to do this.

I thought for sure that ********* would've since they sell the rear speakers. But only show how to install the front door speakers...

Please Help Thanks

 

Octane 151- Any issues with the PDX amps being installed vertically? I recently found some forms that Alpine will not warranty them if installed any other way than flat/horizontal. I was going to use these similar to you as I don't like the underseat floor option, but finding this out has caused me to give these amps a second thought.

 

If I remember correctly, the first time I took the panel off... I took out both screws and popped the whole panel off. Then, while holding it up with one hand, I reached behind it and disconnected the window controller connector. Honestly though, I think you can just "carefully" pop the whole plastic piece for the window controller button up with a butter knife or something similar. The wiring and connector should come up and out, and you can disconnect/reconnect your wires for the controller that way.

I have had no problems thus far. They are performing the same as the day I put them in, and have been in below freezing temps and 100 degree heat They've been in a year now, and are still kicking much ass. I would think they should be fine this way as many amps are mounted vertically... especially with today's technology. What a nuisance that would be! I bought a Square Trade warranty on them anyway just in case something happened to them in 3 years.

 

Hey Octane151, where did you get the CD for the 50hz & 1000hz? Also, could you give me that formula you have for setting up the amps? Thanks for your help and great write up.

 

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Fantastic DIY thread ... this is a project that I will be doing to a lesser degree.

Thanks again for taking the time to do this DIY thread.

PS ... Sorry for doing a "quote" and using up all this bandwidth & storage space, but I wanted to make sure to capture this thread.

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I made my own CD... you can get the tones off the internet. I got my tones here.
The formula to figure how to set your gain is written in the tutorial here.

Also, JL Audio has an interactive tutorial on how to set your gains... here.

Good luck!

 

No problem... glad you like. Good luck with your install.

 

Soo ive forgotten just how good it sounds.. i think its time for a small local meet, although i dont have any work for you to do... unless i go get more spray paint LOL jk

 

I'm happy to let you have a listen again...

 

I just realized you were in VA Beach! You guys should come to Hampton for the next meet up we have! I would love to hear it as well!

 

I'm down... lemme know!

 

Awesome build Bro!

 

Would it help at all just doing behind the speakers? Going to order some sound deadening when I get the tweeters

 

If you are asking if putting on sound deadening such as FatMAT Sound Deadener or Dynamat Extreme or Noico Sound Deadener inside the truck door against the outer skin? Yes, it will help a lot with the panel vibrations.

How much material you apply and where you apply it depends on what your goals are. If you are going to install a 1.21 Gigawatt sound system then you should apply the sound deadener material to just about all metal that has a ringing noise when you tap it. This material will deaden the vibrations and give you a better solid sound. Don't you hate those cars rolling down the road that sound like every piece of metal is about to rattle off the car? Don't be that car!

If your goal is to just have a good sounding system and lets say it's not 10,000 watts of power but more like 25 or 50 watts, then you only need to apply about 25% coverage for generally full effect.

If you are looking to kill some road noise as well, you should also install a closed cell foam pad over all the outer panels.

I just bought a 2018 Mazda Miata RF and will be sound deadening that car starting this weekend. This car has darn near no sound insulation at all and I'll be doing a lot of work but taking my time. But that is another thread in a different forum.

 

Ya its nothing too crazy. Maybe 35-40 watts going to each speaker.

 

Then you don't need to go crazy on it. I'm trying this product called Noico, it's cost is very good (not very expensive) and out of about ~500 reviews that I've looked through, I only found one bad review, you can't please everyone all the time. And remember, you can always add more if you need to. In your situation I'd add some material inside the doors (outer skin) and then apply across the entire door (inner skin). If you are going to remove the carpet then I'd do a 50% coverage just because who really wants to remove the seats and carpet again. Take a screw driver and using the handle part, tap the floor pan and other areas. Where you hear it ringing at a higher pitch is where you want to put the material. Do the center of the floor pan first and listen to how the sound changes, this will give you an idea of what you want to hear. Metal with sharp curves do not generally resonate a lot so you shouldn't need to add material there, but still check it. The doors are the main parts to do. If you have a subwoofer then all flat pieces of metal are fair game, again, you don't need 100% coverage, it's your call and it won't hurt if you do it.

Good Luck on your project.

 

Probably just going to do the doors. All the time I have now a days. I'm going to buy the 80mm stuff