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I want durdy fives. Don't want more truck butchery @ this time. Will be wheel shopping before spring/after slider/bumper/winch/skids/r bumper.

So. Thinking new 17" fake beadlocks and then 285 STT PRO's in 17"'s (34") for NEXT tires instead of current 33"'s.

Have huge clearance around 33"'s.

Thinking out loud......

In someone else's thread.

 

@mwc273 should I solder before crimp, or vice versa? How do you like it?

 

Military. (Esp Air Force) will not allow solder connections on wire to wire. Same with NASA.

100% crimp connectors.

 

I figured that. And planned to crimp the lugs too, just checking what he thinks since I heard him mention solder at one point

 

Solder can crack at extreme temps or under high vibration.....so the story goes....

 

Worst electrical issues I've ever seen were on a race car after a dry powder fire extinguisher had been used in the engine compartment.

EVERYTHING corroded.

 

grew up on a very small island (haida gwaii) driving on the beach every other weekend or more and never had a problem if you just give it a wash after . Eventually everything rusts to bits anyway just because of the salt in the air! Driven my truck on the beach several times, and still relatively rust free. Get more rust from the salted roads up here in the winters!

But man I'm stoked for you to go 35's. you're truck will look killer! Don't even bother taking it to an alignment shop, and just follow that thread you linked. I took it to an alignment shop that proclaims being amazing with off road vehicles and aligning thousands of Tacoma's and they aligned my truck that I couldn't even turn left with 35s, so I drove an hour home making only right hand turns, and realigned it myself anyway. But now I've run into the smooshed flat cam alignment tabs, which I've bent back and welded... hoping that fixes it, but haven't tested it out yet! Big tires definitely put a lot more stress on the suspension. Still haven't regeared, and probably won't be able to afford it for a few more years

I've read that whole 35's thread, and basically the gist is this:

- align as far forward as possible
- around 3.5-4.25 inch BS is ideal for wheels to clear both the UCA, firewall, and frame
- aftermarket UCA's are a must
- cut the fender/flare back around 2.25-3". The back flares will clear on regular suspension (such as OME with dakars, etc) but you can cut back for aesthetics, or if you have changed your suspension so that it flexes more (ie shackle flip, extended travel etc).
- The clips on the back of the flares are removable by twisting them with some pliers, but you can buy new ones if you want.
- You must reroute your air intake, which you've already taken care of with your snorkel....
- beat back your pinch weld so that it is totally flat. towards the outside allows slightly more clearance, cutting it is not necessary, you may need to reseal it with RTV.
- CMC like a mofo, as much as you can.
- lots of debate on regearing, but consensus seems to be 4.88s for manual, 4.88s for auto with lots of weight, 4.56s for auto with minimal weight, or for slightly better fuel economy, stock gearing is livable but not ideal. (I know you are going for 4.88s... I will too when I can)

And after following all of the directions, you will still rub somewhere, no matter what you do short of long travel or SAS, and it's just the cost of having big tires every truck/build is different and you just have to find where it rubs and beat that spot with a hammer, or just live with it. I personally don't rub the firewall or cab mount at all, but slightly rub the driver side UCA, and definitely rub the frame on both sides at full lock. I get the tiniest amount of rub in a few spots around the top of the fender well at full compression, which only happens very rarely when going fast. I have 4" BS on my wheels, and 2.25" out of my fenders on the front, and none out of the back yet until I have the time to cut my HC bumper back as well.

There's lots of good info in that thread, but you have to wade through so much BS it's insane... and the same questions just get asked over and over and over... so hopefully that speeds things up for you a bit!

 

Yep, that's basically it! I used a grinder to cut my fenders, and a dremel with cut off wheels to cut the flares. I heard electric sheers work well too. It looks pretty good, I plan on taking a belt sander to it eventually to really make it nice, but in the end, I just don't really care that much haha

 

A friend bought a new 1978 Camaro and immediately drove it to Florida to watch some of us race at Bike Week 1978. With the window stickers still in place, he drove it up and down Daytona Beach in the water. The car wasn't even a week old. By the time it was 6 months old, it had gaping rust holes in the rear quarter panels. He fought with the Chevy dealer on warranty claims for a couple months. Chevy finally agreed to buy it back just to shut him up.

 

DYF "maxi-CMC" FTMFW.... He cut enough that we had to grind on the cab mount bushing washers to get the patch plate on. So as far as possible without doing a cab mount relocate.

Cut pinch weld completely off for the first 10" or so, then weld seam.

At full stuff against the bump stops, full lock turn, my 33"'s are 2-1/2" from rubbing anything metal. I'd still have to attack plastic/flairs next. I still think part of the solution is to NOT go nuts with wheels. I'm on stock OR wheels and just 1" spacers. Tires are just barely even with outer fender line. More offset would be more problems.

And I'm convinced there is something "magical" about my front suspension. With almost 3" of front lift, I got extremely good alignment numbers WITHOUT aftermarket UCA's. (Well over 2 degrees positive caster in the middle of adjustment range) When I first put the 33"'s on, I was amazed at how much clearance I had with regard to flairs/fender wells. There's a possibility that I wouldn't have needed to cut anything. I did cut just to make sure....

Cooper STT Pro's measure a full 33" when new. Some 33"'s that reportedly rub on other trucks are closer to 32-1/2".

 

I think I used the same for my references when I did mine

 

Pics?

 

Trying to figure out if I have the old one or the new one. Mine does have a light, not a lit switch.

 

Oh .....

 

Fuck. That means I DO have to pull the damn bumper. Should have remoted the solenoid under the hood.

 

Demello has a strategically placed hole

 

Actually it's kind of a bitch. Have crossed hot to ground with the metal connector housing about every other use.

 

Good thinking

 

Both you have hosed wenches?

 

Sweet!