Imminent Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) failure in 2016s?

The symptoms returned with the new Sensor? My symptoms are back, but less noticeable pulsing or kicking.

 

Good point you kill joy....

 

I hope it sticks for you. As the ECU relearns it will slowly start to upshift prematurely and downshift late again in my experience which can lead to the boggling behavior returning, though for me it isn't nearly as pronounced but the smoothness and easy idle haven't wavered for me personally. I wish I had taken "before" video of the shaky steering and whacko tach idling roughly at 1,000rpm pre CKP... is this the end all be all fix for all trucks, of course not, but for some of us the sensor replacement has made improvements that are sticking.

 

Just had mine replaced, and the rear end seal also

 

The shop foreman would not replace the sensor because he couldn't get it to show a failure on his computer. I had at least 9 failures with the same sensor. 6 of them needing to be towed to their shop. They kept my truck a total of 36 days. Only when Toyota corporate told them to replace the CPS did they do it.

 

wow, I'm sorry to hear that. the threshold for codes on this truck seems to be pretty wide open. I've never thrown a code and, according to my dealership, my truck has always been fine. Nevermind the idle 50 g/s MAF and gas / sulphur fumes, shaky idle, rough steering, and 14-16mpgs I used to get on a stock truck. Hopefully you're set now, but c'mon Toyota!

 

The dealer isn't going to replace anything at their own discretion because if they do they may have to foot the bill if they don't get approval from the manufacturer.
It's like if you bring your auto to a private shop and they just hand you a bill for $1000 without giving you a call first.
The difference is you (we) have no leverage with a shop, but the factory has all the leverage.
Not nice lol!

From what I can gather, this CPS has a job like no other cps out there, it has to be incredibly fast & precise for everything to work well with the Atkinson system.
That threw a red flag with me and I've been watching it from the get go and was the main reason I didn't hesitate to replace mine as its bound to have a glitch or two at first.
Also the ecm calculation has to be super fast and fast acting.

fascinating technology for everyday use at work here, but that's just imo and\or speculation on my part and I believe the system works incredibly well when all is as it's supposed to be, and mine is proof.

 

you really don't need an App to figure MPGs, the best way is to reset the mileage counter to 0 at fill up time and then at the next fill up divide the Miles driven on the ODO divided by the numbers of Gallons replaced in the gas tank and record it.

 

What happens when you use ECT and/or S mode?
Is it the same symptoms?

 

Nah, it's different. when I first replaced my CKP I was elated to be driving in D for a few thousand miles carefree but it eventually degraded. Now I'm generally running in S-4 (often + ECT) in the city and it does "ok" but the quick upshift / late downshift always returns eventually in D. Things like jumping into 5th while I'm still accelerating in the 30-40mph range which is stupid but S and ECT help this for sure. Luckily there is an orange solution on the market to help with this

 

Agree, pretty remarkable stuff they've done with this truck it just seems the ECU holds it back. Many report their trucks run great after a reset but slowly degrade (sometimes not so slowly) and all I can assume is perhaps this is the ongoing fuel cut and drive for efficiency and emissions causes this to occur. After a reset, my truck isn't even the same vehicle - feels like it breathes better and light throttle GOES but it only takes a couple hundred miles for that feeling to subside in my experience, then it's back to ECT most of the time (and/or S) unless cruising on the highway

 

A $20 ECU reset button for 3rd Gen Tacomas sounds like a million $ idea right about now... ;-)

 

ECT & S mode get the vehicle out of normal program mode, and should show improved performance, if no difference, I would think it indicates a problem maybe mechanical.

This is the exact opposite to mine, I experienced a little lackluster performance with 2 miles on the odo during break in and I just bypassed it with the ECT and things gradually got better and by the time I reached 1800 miles It was a totally different vehicle, much better. I now have over 24k and don't need or use ECT or S mode, the thing just goes like a bat out of hell.

I did however had a change after the CPS swap and clearing the learned memory, It drove like I had a ton of bricks on the bed. It was so bad I thought the cats were cooked, and I was screwed!
Not wanting to go to the stealership and having them tell me its ok because no mil or codes were present, I kept driving it to see if something would pop up, and it never happened.
It was the opposite of you, it began to slowly regain its good performance it had prior to the clearing, so I just let it go and lasted two weeks before it got all its superman powers back lol!

In your case, It seems as though this process is reversed, which is weird.
If I was in your shoes I'd be tempted to disable the abs system to see if it would act as it should, and if so, I'd suspect something is awry with the ecm or its programing.

I believe there is a new ecm update mentioned somewhere here on the forum that may help?
It maybe worth a trip to the stealer before trying anything if you haven't already had it.

Best of luck
Cheers

 

Gone another 12K since the last episode. They gave me money back on my extended warranty and then gave me 7yr 125,000 mi warranty bumper to bumper if I didn't declare it as a lemon. I'm still going next week to get "new and improved" sensor called for in the recall.

 

Definitely.

However, I wanted to see if there was a change in MPG at certain engine loads. That's what my analysis.was going to be based on. because when coasting at low load and low RPG, the current mpg seemed to go really high even though my averages were so low.

 

Yeah, I've unfortunately given up on the dealer to provide any help unless I'm specifically listed on a recall which I haven't been thus far. I'm in contact with a field service tech who listens but ultimately has only fed my info back to their engineers. I've had 7-8 trips to the dealer in as many months I've owned it and aside from replacing a warped drum on warranty I've had to figure out everything else on my own (w/ the help of TW - thank you). Now I honestly feel like it is my ECU that keeps relearning... The truck can run really well until it relearns bad habits so I know it's possible. Luckily: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-toyota-tacoma-v6-ecu-tuning-alpha-release.495735/

 

You've essentially described the key performance issue to a 'T'. I'm surprised we don't see more 3rd gens getting rear ended. I've certainly been honked at by speed thirsty commuters for this.

 

I just ordered a replacement sensor for my '17 and it doesn't have the hash mark shown in the previous post. I bought it from McGeorge btw...Should I send it back? From the looks of the box, it appears to be made just last month.

 

Is it part that ends in 98?