Cali Raised LED side projecting pods install

I experience some slight glare from each light, nothing that's obnoxious from inside the cab (my truck is white tho).

You can position the lights are more upward & outward away from the hood to avoid that... though I did not. since these are the side projecting PODs which give 120 degree spread of light there isn't much of a need to position them outward. Any further pointed up on my truck (3" lift) and the majority of light would not be directed at the road ahead.

IMO this is a great set up/product/ and price. Prepare to spend extra time during set up to trim the harness to fit more tidy under the hood.

Pictured I used the switch from the harness that can be added to the pods when ordering. I did originally purchase the LED POD DITCH SWITCH to fit where my OEM switches would however, several people including me could not get the switch to activate the pods to turn on and off even with the switch receiving power.

As you seen in the picture, I took the blank switch piece and drilled it out to fit the off/on switch that the harness came with.

 

I felt like it wasn't bad organizing the harness under the hood. I got it all installed and got the extra wire in one neat piled and used two zip ties tied together and put it in the corner.

 

@17tacosport i did the same thing when first installing. I just wanted a neat look under the hood and got creative allowing me to remove 4' of useless wire.

 

This was the end result of my wiring. Came out super clean, i just ran the kit behind the wires that were already there, then was able to zip tie rest of bundle and hide in side wall.

 

Have been considering picking some of these up along with my lightbar...think i'll just have to.

 

Definitely recommend, quality product, easy install and they work great. Im going to be putting mine to good use this weekend in Joshua Tree, super stoked!

Im gonna be picking up the light bar soon too, when you install it post some pictures here of how it went!

 

I just installed these same lights, have yet to put the wiring harness in. Any tips on the wiring harness with the OEM ditch light switch? Also, the cable that comes off the lights themselves, seems to sit on top of the seals for the hood. Any tips for that as well? Thanks!

 

I wired up some pod lights the other day with a very similar switch. If you have a multimeter, it will greatly help. I ran into some issues that required a multimeter to properly address and fix without taking forever.

Keep this in mind...
That switch has 4 wires. The two red wires are the power and the "always on" which will allow it to be run to something like the factory fog light switch to turn on with that. For my install, I just capped it, coiled it up and tucked it away. The black is the standard ground. The green is the accessory power. This should go to your light bar/ pods/ etc that you want the switch to control. One thing that I did notice is that I burned the board out on both of my switches running it on 12V. I believe these switches are rated for a relay. I opened up the switches and just wired a heavier piece of wire from the input dsoldered post to the switch. This fixed my problems after frying the board. (Note that although the board fried, the LED lights still worked making it hard to diagnose that the board was fried. The way they are wired, the LED lights are on a separate circuit with a resistor, so although they may still work, that does not mean the main switch circuit is good.

As far as wiring went, I ran the wiring through a small hole I made in the floor gasket (located under the carpet), up the fender well area and up to the fuse box. I wrapped the wiring it in stock looking plastic wire protector wrap to make it look nice. Temporarily pulling the carpet up is the easiest way to wire it since putting it through the firewall sucks.


On another note, to avoid running extra wire, I did run a single "Hot" positive lead into the car and from there you can tap off of it and not need multiple wires inside for power.

Let me know if you want pics and I can pop the carpet back up and shoot some.


Good luck!

 

If you have a multimeter, put it in the continuity mode (pic attached) connect it to the Aux power (this is the green wire which would go to positive to light bar/pod) and to the black wire. press the switch and it should be continuous or not continuous depending on the switch position. cycle the switch a few times to test and make sure it goes from connected to disconnected. If you get nothing, it is likely you had the same problem I had and fried the switch.

You can RMA it if you want, or if you are okay-ish at soldering like me, it is an easy job to bridge the burned part of the circuit with a small piece of heavier gauge wire. Let me know if you need help

 

Did you just go off the battery?

 

I wired mine directly off the battery when I did mine. I may end up changing it up a bit and placing a third switch in (since I have an empty and currently open hole in my extra switch panel that I got). I am thinking about making the third switch an auxiliary power (allowing me to turn off all auxilary acessories wired to it with one switch). Keep in mind that the LED's on the switches will be always on if you wire direct to the battery. I did not mind this since I drive my truck regularly. But if you leave it for months at a time then you might have to jump it

 

Oh ok

. Really? I thought the led in the light would come on and off as you switch. It..

 

Those are very nice, thinking about adding something like that. Can you post a night shot of the lights?

 

THe ones that I bought off Amazon (Look the exact same) have the 12V input wired around the switch making the two small LED bulbs soldered to the board always on as long as there is power supplied to the switch. The lights do not go on or off depending on switch position. You could however re-wire them to do this if you moved them (including resistors) to the opposite side of the switch. This board is really easy to work on if you fry it. Like I said I wired heavier gauge wire over where I blew the internal circuit on the board.

 

Yes, for now I just ran it off the battery. I need to get a different size adaptor so that I could completely hide it.

 

The way you have the switch is exactly how I was thinking of doing mine since the damn oem style switch won't work. I did order this one to try out though.

 

So I ran the wire from the pods and zip tied it to the brackets (using the holes provided in the bracket) then I dropped the wire down and was able to fit it under the plastic trim in the far left corner (passenger side pod). From there I tucked the kit behind existing wiring that was factory (the long black wire bundle running underneath windshield area of engine compartment). After that, I was able to take the remaining wires and bundle them up, zip tie them, then I stuck them behind the drivers side, internal piece of plastic.

I get this could sound confusing. I will up load more photos when I get home.

 

Do you have a pic of where you ended up putting the remaining bundle of wires? I zip tied mine but since it was dark and I had about enough I just tucked it in near the driver side firewall where I fed the cable through.

 

It's the extra red wire you got on the switch that you use for a fuse tap, the one closest to green(someone correct me if I'm wrong on that), and you can tap it to the tail fuse I believe it's a 7.5 and then it'll dim when you turn on headlights.

 

Anyone have night pics??