Yet another rust story - how screwed am I?

I think you lucked out in a way. I would totally saturate every nook with fluid film once you apply the coating to it. That will halt any further rusting. My 09 is horrible to work on because everything is dripping wet in oil. Oh well, it's good peace of mind knowing that nothing is progressing down there.

 

Thanks - never heard of Fluid Film before. I've seen recommendations on greasing the frame - would this be an alternative to that?

 

Fluid film works great as an undercoating. I use it regularly on tools and around the house (and sometimes my truck). It does not dry and isn't sticky. It stinks, though, but the smell goes away after a while

Like any undercoating, you have to wash it off and reapply each year, to keep maximum protection against rust

 

Thanks for the photos, the detail is great. As for that charcoal canister, you might want to replace VSV (The blue solenoid) before you put everything back together. If you look closely you'll see that the solenoid has heavy oxidation and flaking, sure signs of old age and emanate failure. Although the solenoid can be replace while the canister is still attached to the truck, it is much easier to clean and change while the entire canister detached.

Also, I believe that I read somewhere that the top shock mounts should be inspected carefully, they should be repaired/reinforced and or replaced if there are any doubts about their structural integrity, again, easiest to do with the box removed.

 

I am completely sold on fluid film. I use it on my Tacoma and 4Runner. For me it's mind blowing product. One of primary purposes of this product is to protect the inside of steel ship hull. If it can protect the metal from ocean salt water, it will do good on the street. Applied it doesn't dry but doesn't drip either. I can't be washed by spray of water (like driving in the rain) but can be washed with pressure washer and detergents if needed. I mean it requires pressure washer, not just car wash to get it off.

The smell everybody is talking about is actually quite pleasant. Unfortunately it goes away just next day after the coating.

I saw Lowe's has it for 10 dollars a can, you need about 5 cans to spray the whole truck thoroughly. I used 9 cans for spraying 4Runner and Tacoma for the first time. For winter preparation I'm going to buy a 5 gal bucket and spray gun. It will be cheaper on the long run. I will still use spray cans for some touch-ups of places I might miss with a gun.

 

OK, some more progress picks. My brother picked up some lightly used shackles and springs for the rear end; the front will be getting a new long travel suspension so most of the parts will be replaced up front. This is after an initial application of the Loctite rust disolver. They're going to do another pass with that before starting in on the POR-15 stuff (Cleaner 1st, Metal Prep 2nd then 2 coats of POR-15 semi gloss).

Based on all the recommendations above, after I drive it back home to Virginia I'll apply that Fluid Film all over the under side. The reviews / research on it looks like a winner.

On to the pics:


Yeah, the skid plate is completely falling apart - looking for a decent aftermarket one.

 

My brother was unimpressed with the shape the rear end / leaf springs were in so he shopped around in So Cal and found a decent rear end / leaf spring set from a twin of my truck pretty cheap:



Basically looked brand new. So far, so good. As they started to really dig into the frame they unfortunately spotted some really bad areas near the front of the rear leaf springs that were crusted over until the anti-rust jelly started to clear it out:



The hammer test revealed that they were heavily compromised - bent in pretty easily. Keeping in mind this truck is currently in Southern California, he called around and found a yard that had a clean CA frame that was rust free. In addition, the donor truck (which had significant hood / fender / windshield damage) had a nice shell that I was also looking for. $1,700 for both the frame and the camper shell - they arrive at his shop early next week.

He said it was possible to patch the frame since the real damage seemed to be limited to those two areas, but when adding in the shock tower being in rough shape and the availability in that area of rust free frames, it was better to just swap it out. Since he'll have the frame out completely and it's starting out rust free it'll be a lot easier to treat with multiple POR-15 coats and do a proactive Eastwood internal frame rust treatment. Also going to do the Fluid Film treatment as a last step.

If I didn't have my brother able to pull this off at his shop for a fraction of the cost it would if I paid a shop to do it for me, this would be a non-starter.

Lesson learned: if you buy a used Toyota Tacoma make damn sure you check that frame thoroughly. Even what looks like surface rust can be hiding something pretty insidious.

 

If you can get a rust-free frame, do it!

 

Looks like you're gonna get out of this with minimal stress and aggravation, thanks to your brother. Glad it seems to be working out for you. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

The pictures didn't look that bad. That rust really emphasizes the need for a hands on hammer test of any 1st gen frame. You have a great fix with a donner frame, but the prior owner was extremely negligent in skipping the Toyota undercoating, hence ending the extended frame warranty.

 

Looking through the history of the vehicle (via Carfax) the previous owner - the one I bought it from - had it after that program expired. Near as I can tell, the truck was sitting in NY for nearly a decade and was barely driven. By 2015 it only had 30K miles on it. Apathy happens.

I believe the owner I bought it from did know that the frame was in bad shape. When I asked if there were any hidden surprises on it he said it had "some frame rust" but didn't elaborate. I was completely unaware of the Tacoma / Tundra frame rust issues and assumed it was surface rust. My belief in Toyota making high quality products has taken a massive hit, though I now know the full back story on the frames.

My brother said it's essentially turning into a full frame off resto, not something you normally do for a 14 year old rusty Tacoma, but outside of the frame the truck is rock solid and low mileage and I personally think the 2000-2004 are the best looking series. It was tempting to just coat it as well as possible, weld in some patches for those weak points, slap it back together and sell it (and just buy a newer truck) but then I'd just be foisting this problem on some other poor person that may not have the resources I have. Oh well. Don't need that kind of karma.

I'll probably drop this thread and start up a different one on the restoration since this is really not going to be about a rusty frame any longer. Thanks to all of you for the helpful suggestions! Means a lot.

 

My '95 looked as good as your truck but the frame turned to peanut brittle. You will be good once the frame is replaced. Fluid Film is a awesome product, coat your newer frame with it once its installed.

 

Interesting thread. Just want to comment here. Got my Taco from South Carolina. Live in MA. Washed, painted, FF . Been using ff for 3 yrs on it now. Very impressed. Even thinking about doing it for others part time for extra $ when I get old/retire. Yes it makes it messy when doing under carridge work of any kind but I'd take that over rust and it is pretty chemically safe for human contact when working on stuff. Regarding sticking dirt/sand- right after I fluid film, I go spin donoughts on the most dusty dirt road I can find. Makes a nice rust proof patina.....

 

Such images make me angry every time. How could people do it to their cars? They don't give a shit for so many years and then one day they complain about it. Or even worse, they dump the problem on the next owner, who has no clue what he is getting into (why anyone would anyway).

Cars like anything made out of steel will rust when exposed to environment. Unless you have a stainless steel or aluminum frame/body it will be gone in few years. Some car parts are protected in factory better (body) some worse (frame) some not at all (bolts and nuts). Unless owner takes action from the day one, corrosion will always progress.

Now this is a classic example of Tacoma's week spot. When buying used Tacoma (regardless of the age or gen) this spot should be examined first before even opening cab's door. If there is surface rust on it, hammer it to the bare metal (or till you make a hole). If this spot is good, the rest of the truck will be OK.

 

I would have thought when I started researching buying a Tacoma in the spring of this year that the frame rust issue would have popped up - but it didn't. I asked my brother (my car expert) what to look for in a Tacoma and he didn't even mention the frame rust issue. As a native Californian it's not an issue there and he didn't think about it, just considering the local market. Now he's intimately aware of the issue.

That said, this frame is in salvageable shape except for two key spots - inside of the frame, front of the leaf spring mounts. Granted that's not the only place to test a Tacoma before you buy it but that's the first place I'd be looking if I was considering buying used again. Just slide under the truck with a hammer and whack away at that part of the frame, even if it "looks" fine and freshly painted. I've now looked at dozens of pictures and videos of rusty Tacoma frames and that area seems to be the most consistent for rusting through.

Not saying to skip any other parts of the frame for inspection - just start there first.

 

Same with me. I did not hear about the rust issue before I moved from California to Poland. But lucky me and thanks to TW I am aware of the problem and I do treat my California pristine truck's frame with cans and cans of fluid film. Even now in the middle of the summer I get under the truck and check if any surface rust shows up on exposed bolts, or metal parts. And if I see it, I have a fluid film can in my hand. After using it few times I actually like the smell.

 

Quick update:

Frame from a 2004 California Tacoma w/ 190K miles was purchased/received and the difference is striking. Example comparison of the frame where the load sensing proportioning valve is:




Cleaned up the "new" frame, treated it with one of the POR-15 preps and here it is getting the first of two coats of POR-15:






My brother was really impressed w/ the POR-15 product. Goes on very easily and since we're working with a clean and completely rust free frame it looks effectively brand new.

 

Nice job.

 

Any updates?

 

Jesus christ. How does one let rest get this out of control?! I’ve seen WWII shipwrecks with less rust.