Do I need 2 Amps?

So I've been planning on installing a new audio system in my 2010 v6 Tacoma Prerunner. Just recently I installed a set of speakers (These Ones) and a stereo (This One). Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure that the RMS of the speakers is a bit too high for the stereo. Well I figured that if I am going to add an amp, I might as well add a sub, another set of components, and get better components than the ones i posted. Well I'm pretty inexperienced in car audio and I read up on what exactly I would want in my truck and what else I'd need. As I read on, I read that I can't just hook up any amp to a sub. So anyways, my question is do I need 2 separate amps, one for the sub, and one for the speakers? Also if I do, would my 100 Amp Alternator be able to hold up to the challenge? Also below I have listed the current planned parts list including 2 amps.

Components 1
Components 2
Sub & Box
Component Amp
Sub Amp

Thank y'all in advance.

 

Easy and less expensive route... 4ch amp and a sub/box... Amp will power your front speakers and the sub. Rear speakers will be powered by the radio.

I wouldn't put components in the back, stick with coaxial speakers.

If you want all the speakers amplified, consider a 5ch amp.

 

The problem is that my stereo cant power the 6 speakers connected to it rn. 2 of which are the factory ones in the headliner. Thats why i was going to power all speakers by an amp

 

I think if I was doing my system again, I may have went with two 5 channel amps (JL or Alpine or RF) - you'd have more channels to run your front components as active and run a rear set in active, and you'd have 2 mono bass channels. Mounting those crossovers, even though they can be considered jewelry in some builds, still kinda sucks when doing the install, at least in this truck. Even if you aren't going to use all the power channels - say you trade the truck to an SUV or want to do an upgrade later (ie. adding 2-3 8" woofers under the rear seat in addition to a 10" or 12" slim sub), you already have those channels and extra power on tap. Really depends on what the goal of the system is.

 

Assuming you have an access cab if you have the ones I the headliner, I disconnected those in my last truck, they are terrible, but you also have to keep in mind that you never want your amp power to exceed your speaker wattage, depending on how much sound you are looking for, you can just run the speakers off the head unit, I did in mine and it sounded great for me, same way I have done it for the past 20 years in all my vehicles. Its all in what your plans are, my head unit is rated at the same wattage pushing infiniti reference 3 way 6×9 front , and same speaker in 6.5 rear

 

I do have an access cab but i think im gonna keep the ones in the headliner until i mod my rear doors to hold a 5 1\2" speaker and a tweeter. Also the reason i need an amp for the normal speakers is because they were cutting out once i turned the volume up to an even slight loud level. My head unit is rated at 22 rms. My speakers run 50. For now i have a really cheap amp im using that i pulled from a sub and amp combo that only costs about $100. Not the greatest but at least i dont have to listen to crackling now.

 

Lol i understand your reasoning but if i invest the time and money into this truck that i plan to (not only audio) then i plan on keeping it for a long while lol

 

I wouldn't bother putting rear fill speakers in unless you actually have people back there on a daily basis. Spend the money on the front sound stage. Additionally I would make sure you get a decent 2 channel amp for the front and a mono for the sub. I had trouble fitting the amps under my seats so I decided to go with PPI Ion series which can be found on sonic electronix.

The sub you have listed seams a bit over priced plus it will get rid on your center console space. I went with https://www.supercrewsound.com/10tacoecconsole.html sub box and picked a Dayton 10" subwoofer. It hits pretty decent for being a sealed box.

You also need to figure out what you are going to be doing for wiring. You should probably get a 4 gauge wiring kit and I cant stress it enough to get a decent one.

 

Tbh I don't really use my center console all too much. And the one you posted doesn't really match all that well... As for the wiring, I had already planned to do it all from scratch with 4 or 0 gauge wiring. Unfortunately as of late, I haven't been able to save up lol. Soon though. Maybe when I get my tax return

 

I have a 2010 .
Take a look at my aftermarket write up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ab-2010-with-pics-and-prices-write-up.364009/