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I know I fucked up. But I can't figure out where and how I fucked it up.

 

That's my working theory.

 

Ok. I'm gonna try to un fuck this thing this weekend.

But do all of you geniuses think the problem is narrowed down to the actuator or something internal to the PS tube?

When I drained the diff gear oil, there were no metal fragments or significant metal particles in the drain magnet.

 

It wasn't working when I took it apart. That's the reason I took it apart.

 

Pull the actuator with front end in air and diff locked. Spin passenger side tire. If diff doesn't spin, slide fork to other side. If diff spins slide fork back. Put actuator back in. Then verify that the ADD locks when you shift into 4. If it all checks out, button up and have fun.

 

Ok. I'll try all this shit before I buy the Dana 60's @Wheelspinner is trying to sell me

 

That's a big snake. Glad you let him enjoy his dinner.

 

Make sure before you pull the actuator that you are in 2wd. If you are in4 when you turn engine off, the fork will be in the engaged position and then will not slide over the collar if it is in the disengaged position. Saavy?

 

that actuator is very finicky when it comes to the reassembly and the timing of the gears and spring fingers on the contact pads. Make sure it is actually spinning all the way but checking ground on the limit switch. Can't remember which pin. Think it's pin 4

 

Anyone know or can link me to the pin assignments?

 

@Fifthwind should be in on this delightful, yet informative discussion.

 

These are a lot easier to see if they are locked or not juss sayin

 

On a serious note from what it sounds like I also vote it was an assembly error not a mechanical failure. Take it apart make sure everything is where it should be for 2wd (collar and switch) then put it together. Just test before re installing skids and you should be set

 

I've never had one apart myself.
Going to see what info I can find.
So far, @cynicalrider and @stairgod seem to have the best advice, where you want to shutdown in 2WD, and re-assemble with the gears disengaged.
If you are up on stands, you should be able to rotate the front driveshaft and hubs to assure that nothing is locked.
As I said to you at AOAA, if those contacts are open, you will want to use Bulb grease, a.k.a. dielectric, so as not to insulate.
If you find a diagram, flag me on the post please.

 

Thanks Murph.

Grease is confirmed to be dielectric.

 

I found this thread which includes a diagram, and I presume the pins are the numbers one thru six, with red being one.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4x4-troubleshooting-4hi-light-blinks-4lo-will-not-engage.682716/

 

BTW, did you do this?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2wd-lo-mod.195424/

 

Here's the pin assignments

 

No, but I should. Since I'm already studying and understanding the wiring on this thing. Looks simple enough.
I could have used 2Lo at AAOA this past weekend.