16 lug nuts torque spec

What is the torque spec for the lug nuts on a 16 tacoma with alloy wheels?

 

83 ftlbs

 

+1

Noted in the Owner Manual along with a bunch of good info.

 

Dealer over torqued mine to 95 ft/bs. Either that or my torque wrench is off.

 

torque to tighten and torque to loosen do not always match

It takes a lot more torque to start to move a fastener at rest than a fastener that is moving. That is why when you properly torque something you have to keep the fastener slowly moving until the wrench clicks off. If it stops, you have to back off and start over. It's the difference between static and dynamic torque.


95 sounds about right. when you need to use your feet and a hammer
because the stock lug removal wrench bent trying ti get lugs off, then
you know the dealer put them on too tight

 

I believe most of the Torque specs are the same as the 2nd gen pretty much.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

I figured +10 lbs was probably better than -10 lbs anyway. I feel like I should probably recheck everything this weekend.

 

I think some of you are overthinking it. Yes, specs are 83 ft/lbs. But key is consistency. Different torque wrenches have some margin of error. Doesn't matter though--just torque everything the same. Uneven torque causes more issues than bolts tightened slightly more than spec. I just set mine to 90 ft/lbs.

 

Your torque wrench should only be used to tighten/torque, not used as a breaker bar/removal.

 

Yeah, I agree. I really need to get a breaker bar, but its one of those tool's I always forget about. I'll try to remember to pick one up next time I'm at the hardware store.

 

Where? Been going over the owners manual for the last half hour. It's not under wheels, tires, tire rotation, or the maintenance categories.

 

Thanks for the assist!

 

Before I retired part of my job was to get test equipment calibrated and I can tell you from experience that torque wrenches are very difficult to keep calibrated. Most people don’t read the instructions which tell you to back off the tension when storing your wrench. Also cheaper wrenches like Harbor Freight and Craftsman would usually be rejected by the first calibration cycle (1 year in our case) as not serviceable. Quality torque wrenches cost $300 or more and even some of those failed quickly. We got to the point of buying a torque checker and put in place procedures for the guys to test the wrenches before use. When they failed we trashed them as it was cheaper than repairing them and paying for recalibration.

 

I just had to instruct our folks at work about backing off the torque setting.

That said, I have a 20yr old HF clicker that continues to agree with my digi torque adapter. Since, it has been good enough to both clear up / prevent pulsating rotors and not strip a single screw going into aluminum threads repeatedly (6,000mi Ducati services).

Care and learning are important.

 

Truth. I have an old Snap-On QJR-3200 that has always been stored like that, and it's been dead nuts every time I've had it checked.

 

I know, zombie thread. But figured I’d add anyway… I check my 3 torque wrenches (200 in. lb., a 150 ft. lb. and a 250 ft. lb.) against each other from time to time to make sure they’re still equal at the same torques. They range from about 15 to 3 years old, and are all pretty cheap (in the $40-100ish range). So far all of mine still seem to be calibrated well. I always store all of them at the lowest setting religiously tho. I think that makes all the difference. If you throw it in a drawer for 6 months set to 100 ft. lbs. or whatever, you’re almost guaranteed it’ll be off when you go to use to again.

 

About this tight.







Seriously thought, I set mine on 85 ft/lbs and call it good

 

Most dealers will put three ugga-duggas on it and close the ticket. Which sounds maddening as hell at first, but also it's not like wheels are spontaneously taking the off-ramp while the rest of the car continues straight.

I keep my grossly uncalibrated wrench set at 90. It's tight, the lug isn't in danger of shear, and all six should be holding roughly the same tension across each wheel. Good 'nuff fer me.

 

We got hit by a thread revival.

OP asked way back in 2017
If the wheels haven’t fall off by now, they aren’t going to.