What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

I currently have 885's on mine. You can see from the pictures below the slight change in front ride height as additional weight is added (not perfect side shot comparisons, but you can see some variance).




Added Pelfreybilt hidden winch mount and Smittybilt 9500 winch (with synthetic line):

 

No no no, not correct. The difference in the springs is mainly the length.

883, 884, 885, 887, and 888 all have the same load rating of 590 lbs, but are different lengths to achieve different amount of lifts. That’s why different configurations (i.e. access cab, DCSB, etc.) need different coils to gain the same amount of lift.

The 886 coils are a 660lb coil, which is why it’s recommended if you have a lot of weight up front. This is what I have on my access cab with about 200lbs up front (bumper and winch) plus full skids and sliders. It rides a lot better than the 884s I had because it can handle the weight.

Since you have an access cab prerunner, some 884 coils should get you about 2.5” of lift, maybe even a little more. If you wanted a full 3” 885s would do the trick, but then you’d want new UCAs so you can get back into alignment and not have a shitty driving truck.

 

I'm so tempted by this, but it looks like a ton of work. How hard was the wiring?

 

Bunch of info here. In the first post there is the spring heights and ratings
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/old-man-emu-questions-answers-pictures.258245/

Your spring lbs are wrong and you can run 887s for 3" without a 3/4" spacer without armor.

 

True. That is always a possibility. I'd say my chances are pretty slim. What do you suggest otherwise?

 

I would hope not. I don't trust to many people though.

If a Tacoma owner wouldn't steal a cooler, why do you need a lockable storage box with a security cable inside of a lockable compartment (truck cab)? Just my observation. Locks, cables, and chains are used to keep honest people honest, if someone wants what you have bad enough they are going to take it no matter what you do.

 

You're absolutely correct. If someone comes up and has a cutoff wheel, tool bag, or BFH they'll have anything they want off our trucks.

I figure with this chain and lock I'll deter a majority of snatch and grabs. If they can't get it in a minute or two they'll move on. I feel like I've made a pretty secure setup that will stop all but the most determined. I'd bet a simple cable lock would prevent quite a few if they aren't determined enougb. But we'll never know someone walks away unless there's evidence.

Also, some states require firearms to be locked in some way, shape, or form.

 

I think you missed the part where it was suggested a Tacoma owner would likely have the tools readily available to remove the bolt used to secure the cooler. No such intimation was made regarding the lock box.

 

I've been wanting to do this and curious if the turn signals will work. The necessary wiring is there so it's baffling as to what else is missing. Anxious to figure this out.

 

For the bolt, I'd get a longer bolt and use a lock nut on it. I don't know about the D-rings, I removed mine to install bed stiffeners. Maybe install bed stiffeners and use a second lock?

 

Not a bad idea. I've thought about the bed stiffeners before, that would be pretty secure and I think they usually have an area that can be used as a tie down.

 

going to cut out around the holes and use bondo glass, its bondo with fiberglass fibers in it, then paint match and hope it works, have duct tape on it for now. bought the truck just before Christmas and the guy said one bolt was loose, not every. Atleast I got a good deal on the truck. I am really surprized the head liner has no stain or signs of water leaking on it at all tho.

 

I not telling you what to do with your truck, but if you have any intension of keeping it for any period of time. please let a professional weld patch's the proper way & you'll be very happy you did!
the bondo will look like crap & probably crack.

 

I

I filled my bolt holes from the previous owners lightbar with some clear silicon. They've held up great so far. I still haven't come up with a permanent solution yet, or should I say I can't afford one.

I intend to keep the truck after it's paid off and buy a double cab for the family, my reg cab will be my hunting truck.

 

I would at least stop drill where the torn metal ends. As the metal expands and contracts it could get worse over time. Good luck with however you repair this.

 

Went to bleed my brakes after changing out the pads and this happened.... I've never had a bleeder break off, but this puppy was seized up pretty damn tight and she gave way. So a 5 min bleed turned into a full caliper replacement lol. At least it looks shiny!!

 

Sarcasm! I lock down my cabela’s cooler as well

 

This past Saturday I replaced my front brake pads with EBC Green Stuff 7000 and flushed my fluid with ATE TYP 200. This was my first time doing brakes and it was really easy.




Currently, I'm having my front Icon shocks rebuilt at DC Shock Services in San Dimas, CA. It'll take them four hours to rebuild my front shocks. I could have shipped them here, but it's about a 4-5 day turnaround, and I'd have to pay for shipping and deal with removing and reinstalling them as well as solve parking at my house around street cleaning days. So this is a easier for only a little more money.

https://www.dcshockservices.com/

 

Installed some pods and @CaliRaisedLed ditch light brackets the other day.
Much more to come..

 

I've heard it's hit and miss. On my '15 SR5 I added the Pro-EFX towing mirrors and the signals just worked.