Could play in the tie rod create this problem?

I recently had a machine shop replace my front wheelbearings, because they were shot! When I put everything back together I think I might have damaged my right tie rod. With everything bolted up I can move this tie rod with my hand, side to side in a twisting motion. The left side is nice and stiff. I still have a death wobble around 40-50 mph. Could the play in the tie rod create this problem? P.S. the tie rods are new...

 

Where exactly is the play in the tie rod? Is it on the tie rod end or in the rack?

Were they new and you disconnected the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, and if so, how did you remove it?

 

@DrZ It’s on the tie rod end. The rack and pinion is new, so are the ball joints, upper and lower. Upper and lower control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings are new as well. The tie rods were new when I disconnected them. I used a hammer to knock the tie rods out of the knuckles. I did put the castle nut on the tie rod and hit it from the top, as well. That being said, when assembling, the castle nut screwed on half way, and had to use a pneumatic tool to put the right tie rod on. I noticed the tie rod joint twisted, as it was being tightened. I feel I messed up the new tie rod in this process. Do you think I stressed the tie rod ball joint? In retrospect I didn’t need to remove the tie rods to remove the hub assembly. My bad..

 

There is play, when I grab the right tire and twist left to right. Also I can turn the cap on the bottom of the tie rod. The pictures are of the same tie rod, but the cap is in a different position. I wanted to do a video but my phone wouldn’t upload it to this forum.

 

I would swap it out. It's not hard to do. Better safe than sorry. Go with MOOG as they come with a grease-able zerk fitting which makes them last longer.

Since those are supposed to be new also check and make sure the torque is right on it.

Hmm did you change the inner tire rods? Those could be the culprit to your death wabble

 

I agree to swap the tie rod end. They are cheap. But I didn't see you say you replaced the rack bushings. I would do that as well. Mine were shot and that caused steering problems on my truck. I went with the Energy Suspension kit.

 

Sounds like that outer tie rod is boogered. I just replaced mine on the passenger side, and it cost $42.08 mail order and including shipping for the genuine Toyota part.

 

This is the way to go if you can afford it. @gunny1005 can get you the best prices on oem parts hands down OP Way cheaper than your local brick and mortar dealership prices

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gunny-is-back.476544/

 

It's better to use a tie rod end puller to remove it. You should also use a torque wrench to get it to the proper torque when installing. Maybe it's not tight enough. You could have tried to clean the threads up with a tap & die when you realized the nut wasn't going on smoothly.

Like other's said, it's probably safer to just replace it at this point. Also, clean the hole out real good before installing. Sometimes grease or dirt will get in there when you remove it and you don't notice it.

 

Tie rod puller ftw.

 

So I replaced the tie rod on the right side, got an alignment, rotation and wheel balance and my truck is still shaking around 45 mph, coasting in neutral. The shake seems to be coming from the front end, still. The only thing I haven’t replaced is my struts and shocks. I have re-checked the torque on all the nuts and bolts as well. Am I missing something? I’m at my wits end...

 

Have you checked for play in the new wheel bearings - you said you "still" have wobbles after replacing them - does that mean you had a lot of play in the bearings on both sides? When did the wobbles start to appear the first time?

Is your truck 4x4 by any chance? (The more info you post or include in your personal info under the "You" link at the top of the page, the better - engine, trans, 4x4 etc.)

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-4x4-front-diff-bearing-vibration.276853/

Long shot.

 

Do you have free play in the steering wheel? When my outers and rack bushings went bad, I noticed it by the increasing amount of play in the steering wheel. I don't have the shake at speed, but the truck liked to wander due to the free play.

I can't recommend Moogs, because that's what I went with and the boots didn't last too long. I can see the metal that should be covered. They need the grease fitting so that you can chase out the water every month or so. Only OEM in the front end for me from now on.

 

Absolutely!

And don't use a puller that has less than 0.080" jaw opening. All of the ones available from O'Reillys, Autozone, and Harbor Freight have less than that and will not fully straddle the joint.

How do I know? Because I've tried them all, and had to take all of them back for refunds. The one from Harbor Freight for around $22 broke the bolt on the tie rod .

The next time I need to remove a tie rod from my 1998 TRD I'll try the one from OTC (OTC PN 7503) for around $60.

 

Make sure you're working on OEM lbj's with that OTC puller - the po installed 555 ones and I had to grind off material from the lbj and the puller lol

 

"0.080" jaw opening" is one small puller.

These fellows work on both 1st gen LBJs and TREs. The long one is adjustable thru 2 ranges. I take the small one on the trail.

 

I meant 0.800". Just over 3/4 inch.

@Dirty Pool
Will the smaller one also work on the upper ball joints, or do I need the longer puller?

 

Well the problem is solved. My driveshaft had a bad U-joint and I didn’t adjust my back breaks properly. Rear drums warped. Thanks for all your help guys!