Hardwiring Dash Cam Help

I've recently ordered the VIOFO A119S Dash Camera

VIOFO A119S V2 DashCam (New 2018 Stock) V2 (GPS Mount Included!) + EVA Foam, Sony IMX291 60fps BSI Sensor Novatek 96660 OCD Tronic

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFAK888/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Along with their Hard-wiring kit

VIOFO Original Car Dash Camera Hardwire + Fuse Kit Compatible VIOFO A119 A119S A118 A118C A118C2 Mini DVR Recorder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5ZZG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've gone through multiple threads, but I can't really find an answer specific to me.

These threads appeared to help a little

- https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dashcam-hardwire-install.526470/
- https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dash-cam-installed.461286/
- https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-switch-on-parking-mode-constant-lead.460891/

My questions:

Does my hardwire kit pictured below have some sort of protector that will stop the power going through if my truck battery goes below a certain limit?

Which fuse is the one most used to constant on and which fuse is the one most used for power only when the vehicle is on?

Anything else I should know before I go ahead with the install?

Thanks,

 

No idea on your hardware kit. As far as fuses, I think the most common power “only when truck is on” are the outlet 1 & 2 fuses. Although I can’t remember which one is which but they are the cigarette lighter fuses. I hardwired my dash cam to “dome” for constant on. And installed a voltmeter to keep an eye on it. I honestly don’t think the dashcam draws enough power to drain the battery, at least not mine. Mine does have parking mode which means it’s not constantly recording. It goes in standby and records a 12-15 second clip of it senses a sudden bump or something crosses its view. Also, the longest I’ve gone without turning the truck was either 3 or 4 days.

 

I followed the first link you posted and it works great
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dashcam-hardwire-install.526470/


Tapping Into Power

Next, I removed the 30A fuse used by the wiper fluid. Inserted the fuse tap and then placed the 30A fuse I removed into the tap. I attached the ground wire to the bolt/nut of the fuse box.

I took up the wire slack and zip-tied the convertor and the extra wire behind the fuse box.

NOTE - the fuse box cover will not fit back on with the fuse-tap installed. No biggie. I put mine the glovebox for safe keeping.

NOTE 2 - Using the wiper fluid fuse only send power to the camera when you have the car on or on accessory mode. Alternatively, you can tap into a different fuse that has constant power if you want your dashcam to have power 24/7. Reference the fuse box cover to decide which fuse will work best.

 

I believe they make taller fuse box covers.

 

this guy does

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/custom-fuse-cover-extended-height.519448/

 

I have the Thinkware F770 and it has voltage protection but it's part of the camera software. I tapped into my homelink mirror for power.

 

Thanksnall for the help. Successful install after a experiementing here and there. I used the dome fuse for constant on to have power for parking mode. I also noticed that it requires an extra fuse to the add a fuse in order for the cam and dome to both seperstely function. Bought some extra fuse right before the local store closed and got er done.

 

Do you use two fuses of the same size amp rating?

 

Knowing nothing about electricals...I did use two of same size and it appears to work without issues for now.

 

how did you do this? I have the thinkware F770 but never hardwired in yet since I wanted a cleaner quicker install. I have the hardwire kit, but never used it. Thanks in advance

 

I wanted to throw in some advice on something I wish I'd done when wiring in my dashcam: Make your own pigtail adapter for the last few inches before you plug into your dashcam. It's a PITA to hardwire these in compared to just plugging it into the 12v outlet, but totally worth it. You won't want to do it twice though, and when your dashcam burns out on you it's no fun to try to splice a new adapter in place of the old one. So just do it right away with a common type of plug before you do your install. Take some pictures and notes so future you can build another one when the time comes.

I installed mine 3 years ago, and a couple months ago part of the sensor went bad so now it only records in psychedelic color. I bought another camera exactly like mine but they changed the power jack on it so it's not compatibile. I'm thinking I'll use the plugs off a 2.5mm headphone extension cord to replace with. They have 3 wires, they're common, and will probably be available for a couple more decades. I'm going to have to try to solder this in about 1" from my headliner, not looking forward to that...

 

I'll get some details for you later in the evening today.

 

Sorry for such a late response.

before you start you'll also need to buyextra fuse coinciding with whichever one you initially take out. (I don't know if this makes sense but refer to the picture. Sorry I'm also learning as I go.

1) Find the placement you want of your dash cam. Mine comes with a live screen so I used the cigarette jack outlet to power it on while I found the desired angle of the camera.

2) Decide on whether you would like to have it constant power to your camera or to have it only turned on when your truck is on. This will be the deciding factor on which fuse to piggyback off of. I did mine on the "Dome" fuse for constant power, but your needs may be different.

4) Take off the rubber seal surrounding the driver's side, then unbolt the A pillar plastic trim.

This video of speaker installations will give you more clear directions on how to take off the trim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c37zgaUQsVo

5) From the point where your dash cam is set, run the hardwire lines through the headliner. You can use a soft plastic trim tool to just shove it in there. When you reach the A pillar, zip tie it along with the factory wires to tidy up.

6) tape then ends of the add a fuse and grounding wire to a clothes hanger and place into the dash until it reaches the bottom near the fuse box, then you can pull it out which is much easier.

7) Place the grounding wire to the bolt at the end of the fuse box.

8) Choose the correct fuse and take it out. (A fuse puller might work easier or you can use a flathead but it might take chunks off the fuse as it is fragile.) Then replace it with the add a fuse as pictured.

9) Buy a fusebox cover from @mesojdm. I'm still waiting for him to have it restocked.

Hope this helps.

 

In the last image you posted, read the center section:

" LOW Voltage Protection Parameter". Under 12V, it clearly states 11.6V, which means the unit will disconnect power when the power source reaches 11.6 volts.

So to answer that portion of your question, yes, the unit will disconnect power if your battery gets too low.

 

Excellent. Thanks!

 

@USDashCamera may have some ideas for ya if you still need help.

 

Tbh I connected my BATT "constant on" wire to my actual battery because I use an aux fuse box under my seat. But from recollection I think the dome lights of of the truck are on some fuse that's always on.

Then the ACC fuse of course for the ACC wire.

 

Easiest way is tap into the powered rear view mirror with a 12v-5v coverter.

We have these dash cam at work,these are excellent:
https://www.amazon.com/DOD-TECH-DOD-LS470W-Powered-Technology/dp/B019123E96

 

Oh wait a119 uses just a ground/ACC connection? I thought it had a 3 wire kit for it's parking mode.

 

You got it! Sometimes it's in the fine print. Good luck!