The Lair

Got ya no good point! Also building something one off and then testing I can tell you from experience enginerding it on the computer sometimes it doesn't work that way in real life so there can be a lot of trial and error to finally get something right.

 

Link to the thread

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-hammer-hangers-mid-travel-soa-sua-archive-garage.519625/

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-travel-soa-sua-archive-garage.519625/page-3

 

I'l have to go through it again. Thanks for the link.

Look, I'm on board. I think archive knows his shit. But I like to research and examine. I'm sure people were leary of circuit breakers when they first came out (over using fuses). But then again, people hate the new arc-fault breakers and for good reason. They're new and sexy, but very troublesome..

 

So the frame turns white when axle is stuffed or flexeddude, you need more crayons

 

I can definitely understand the apprehension with it being a new product, but SOMEONE has to be part of the first people to use it and prove it. With a product like this that’s the only way.

 

I hear you. But that's a 350 plus ticket to be that SOMEONE.

 

Yeah, it’s not cheap. I’d be willing to gamble though because you could always resell. Then a shackle flip is as easy as bolting it in since the hard work of removing the stock hanger is all done.

 

I hate everything electronic. Me and electronics get into arguments almost daily and I always win with a BFH.

 

That eletrical taped wire wrapped around metal electrical conduit though damn man living on the edge!

 

is the shock relocate really necessary with the HH? or would you just be able to gain a little more droop with it relocated?

 

If you didn’t do a shock relocate, the HH would be pointless. You’d have a bunch of droop, but your shock wouldn’t be long enough and act as a limiting strap.

 

Thats just for a clock. Damn thing is probably older than me. I'm a signal maintainer for the public transit trains in Philly. Here's some of the stuff in the shop right now. The first is the circuit controller for a switch that moves the train from track A to track B. Second pic is a relay test stand. My training for this job was just about a year, all in house.

 

Ideally, you want to get the leaf/shackle situated first, then that will determine the correct shock length. Most people (myself included) do it backwards and get the shock first because bro

 

That first pic looked like some old ass swithching stuff.

I was just ragging you I have circular saws from gramps that are probably some of the first on the market and their cords are made of electrical tape and wires from that era.

 

You’re not totally screwed though. You can choose at what angle to weld on the lower shock mount to fine tune the overall length between upper/lower shock mounts.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ua-archive-garage.519625/page-2#post-16559270

 

I don't think I'm screwed. I just now have to work backwards and get the right shackle and leaf pairing for 12" shocks to maximize the shock.

 

You don’t HAVE to, but again, your droop will be limited by your shocks. That’s how my set up is right now, with my 5100s limiting the downtravel. The B110 will fix that.