Audio system for 2017 double cab

Hey guys, I've read this thread and several others and i'm still confused. I've never messed with audio equipment. I don't mean to hijack the OPs thread but I could use some help! This seems to be the best thread regarding what I need help with.

I've already upgraded my speakers to the subaru tweeter and kicker 6x9 in the front and I put kicker subs in the rear doors. I have a Kenwood KAC8405 720W amp (60ish RMS) and an LC7i. How the hell does it all plug together????

From what I've read, I may not need the LC7i to control bass roll off. (I don't know if i do or do not need it). I know Taco Tunes sells and Amp harness kit (I've seen the video and understand how it connects to the head unit, but not how it connects to the AMP).

I don't want to have to splice into anything. I see a few people have made their own harness using the metra cable and adapters. (I got a little lost following that too. It seems to be the equivalent of ********* amp harness.)

What's my best plug and play option here? Is that even an option?

 

Sounds like you've been doing some good research. The guys who have been making thir own harnesses/kit have been making something similar to what ********* offers (but for a fraction of the cost). But since this is new to you, getting the ********* amp harness might be the best bet since it's one less thing for you to figure out.

If you use the LC7i with an amp, you will actually run the TacoTune wiring harness from the back of the headunit to the LC7i. The wires from that harness will go into the "speaker level inputs" (pictured on the bottom of your photo).

From the LC7i, you will need to run 2 RCA cables from the "outputs" (pictured at the top of the LC7i) and run them to the red & white "line in" inputs on the amp (pictured on the very right of the amp in your other picture). From there, you will need to connect the ********* wiring harness to the amp again, but instead you are going from the amps "speaker outputs" to the other wires in the ********* harness that goes to the speakers.

That is all how the amp will send the audio signals from the headunit, to the LC7i, to the amp, and then to the speakers.

There will also be a remote turnon wire in the harness that will tell everything to turn on when your radio turns on (usually a blue wire that will be in the harness). That will plug into the "remote in" of the LC7i. You may need to run a small wire from the LC7i "remote out" to the amp...but I don't see a "remote in" pictured on the amp, so you'll have to look at the instruction manual of the amp to see what it recommends.



Now keep in mind, you will ALSO need to install an amp wiring kit for both the LC7i and the amp. You need to run the power directly from the battery in the engine to the LC7i and the amp (with a fuse in-line). You can run a thicker guage wire from the battery and then split it just before you get to the amp & LC7i. It's usually easier to do that (and more cost effective). You will need to run thick guage ground wires to the closest screws that are screwed directly to the frame of the truck. The ground wires from the LC7i and the amp do NOT need to be connected to the same spot.



Hope that helps a bit.

 

WOW!!!! That was a huge help and definitely simplified the process! Thank you!

********* doesn't have the best photos, I assumed the end of the wires which went to the amp had some sort of male/female adapter. I didn't realize they were "loose" wires and just plugged into the amp/LC7i.

You did lose me a bit with needing to install an amp wiring kit for the LC7i and amp....do you mean I need another amp harness' from *********? Or was that strictly related to power and ground?

The ********* harness is $100 shipped....how difficult would it be to make the harness in the thread?(will the harness in this tread work for my purposes?)

I do have 4Ga power and ground wire. Is there a splitter that is usually used to run power to the amp and LC7i?

 

Yes, the wires will be "loose" wires that just plug into the LC7i inputs and the amp outputs...no need for adapters.

Since you still have your own power and ground wires, you don't need the other amp kit that I was talking about. You would just need the ********* harness, your power and ground cables (I assume you have a fuse for the power cable as well), 2 RCA cables, a 4ga to 2 8ga splitter (like this), and a couple 8ga wires to go from the splitter to the amp & LC7i.

Making the harness yourself isn't exactly hard, it's just time consuming. You would need to order all the individual pieces, splice wires, and re-pin one or two of the harnesses. Basically, the $79 ********* harness kit (it's on sale right now) is charging the cost of their time to make the harness. Although I sound like I know a bit about the harness, it's only because I read about many of the guys doing it in this other thread. I didn't make or buy a harness because I ran completely new wires throughout my truck for my audio system.

 

Mr Marv is another option, I think his runs around $40; I talked to him on the phone about making a harness and ended up buying a sub box and JL10W as well because his price is extremely good for the quality of sub/box you are getting.

 

His wire harnesses are not $40. His sub boxes are second to none. This is the one he made for me. Birch. I just finished coating it with Duratex paint.

 

Did you already have some laying around? Looking at doing something similar once mine shows up and was wondering how much to get (should be same style, passenger side single 10" sub DCLB '17)

 

Was that question to me? No, I bought a quart. If you're getting pretty much what I did, you can get away with less. I still have more than half left. I brushed everything first.

 

Thank you so much again for dumbing all this down for me!!!! I was beginning to feel like I need a car audio for dummies book, lol. Now that you mention it, I don't think I have a fuse yet. From what I've read, ANL fuses are the way to go over AGU fuses.

What size fuse should I go with?

WOW...running wire throughout your truck sounds like a PITA lol! You clearly have more patience then I do!!

 

I've used both fuses and it really didn't matter to me. I suppose ANL are easier to swap out if you ever had to, but thankfully I have only blown a couple fuses in my lifetime. If you disconnect the battery when doing an install (always a highly recommended thing to do), then you shouldn't have any issues with a blown fuse.

The fuse rating will depend how much your LC7i and your amp recommend. Whatever is recommended in their instuction manuals, take those fuse ratings and add them together to get what you need. This fuse is sort of a "last resort" fuse...it will be likely be the last to pop since the smaller fuses (like the 2 on the amp itself) will pop first to protect the electronics. If this fuse one pops, it's popping because there is a serious problem (such as the main cable short circuiting) and can possibly cause some serious damage to you or the vehicle itself.

lol, yes, running wire's can be a PITA, but it's an interesting way to get to know your vehicle a LOT more than the average person. Heck, when I bought my 2nd gen, it was used and looked like it was in great condition. Once I pulled off panels to run wires, I found out that the truck had previously been broken into because there were still shards of glass from the rear window under the carpet. Thankfully, I didn't find any water damage (bought her in FL after one of the hurricanes had come through).

 

Dude @fathomitout I feel your pain I start to understand some stuff then somebody post something else their doing and somebody said you need this also and you don’t need this it’s like WTF!!??? Go back to square one!!!

 

Yeah man I ended up giving up and went with the OEM Audio plus dual subwoofer complete system and couldn't be happier, the install took some time, but I went slow and it sounds amazing!

 

@DavidM310 So I have everything pinned up (using factory speaker wiring), but in this picture the blue wire is connected between the female on right (taking speaker back to amp) and male harnesses on left (taking input signal to amp). So on both my speedwires I am only using 8 slots (positive and negative of each speaker). How do I get the remote on to work? Do I need to tape that blue wire (picture appears that it may be the yellow wire which could be 12v acc?) and connect it to the blue "remote turn-on" wire in the speedwire on the left that goes into the input side?

Also I have a remote bass knob that has a "remote on" wire. What is that all about? The back of my amp says remote on and bass control, so I assume I need to connect the blue wire from the speedwire (once I figure out where in the heck to connect the other end to) to this wire and then plug in the remote bass knob.

 

On mine, the blue remote is connected to the 2 red wires on the harnesses.

 

Thanks for the response. I have the same setup as yours (5 channel amp, stock deck, 10TW sub) so I'll do the same. Of course the soldering gun went out last night and all my seats are off. This thread is confusing as some were stating acc was the yellow, but I guess its red (at least on 3rd gens)

 

Should be fine set up the same way if you are using the existing wiring in the truck.

 

Just to add to this thread, I found the tweeter adapter (see link below).
There are four wires to each tweeter.
One set is a line in for the tweeter, the other is line out to the door speaker.
This adapter works great with a crossover for components.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649



I'm not doing components on my truck, just coaxials and a tweeter upgrade.
I made my own adapter (3D printed) for the tweeter but you can find them on ebay: Link.

My build:
Alpine SPR-10TW
Rockford Fosgate P1694

 

Update: 3/29/2018
I installed Fosgate speakers in the front door. I took my time ~2 hours.

I really like the response from them now.
No more muddy sound. The lows don't disturb the high
notes since before the bottom speaker was working for
such a large frequency range.

I'm still waiting for my package from china regarding the
tweeter harness. I'll post pics on the install and the soldering...

 

I know this post is a little older, but was wondering if you had the correct wire colors at each speaker (which color is positive and negative) I installed the kicker 6.75 and 6x9 yesterday and like you said the back left was black and white, and then the rest of the colors did not match up to any of the diagrams I found in here.

My front left speaker wires were a dark green and light green and I made a guess that the dark green was the negative. The front right and back right I have no clue if I wired them correctly according to some of the charts/diagrams I found. Thanks in advance!

 

I beleave the fatter wire of the two is the positive. If its working correctly i wouldnt pay it much though. I do not have them written down sorry