3rd gen Tailgate Pop-N-Lock no longer working

I've had the Tundra model Pop-N-Lock in my '16 Tacoma for about a year now (they didn't have the Tacoma model available when I ordered) and it's worked great, until now. It's technically working, but after removing the tailgate panel I see that the "lock" function only moves the OEM locking mechanism half-way, so if you pull the handle, it moves it back to the unlocked position.

Basically, it doesn't have enough torque to move it fully to the locked position.

I had a similar issue about 6 months ago and a simple realignment fixed the problem. That's not working this time.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on fixes? Do these Pop-n-Locks lose power over time?

 

I had this issue also. I sprayed it real good with WD40 and it has been good for over a year so far.

 

I would also think it’s a lubrication issue. I’d either use light grease or silicone spray. WD40 is not a lubricant.

 

Perhaps TW vendor @Pop&LockLLC can assist?

 

Info straight from WD40's website.

 

Not the thread I wanna see....got my PopNLock being delivered today.

Let us know if some WD-40 or lubricant of sorts fixes your issue!

 

Really. A company's sales pitch should automatically deemed valid? WD40 does have lubricants, but it is not a very good lubricant. Or even a decent lubricant. Very thin and washes off quick.

 

They do make actual lubricants now as well, different can than the standard wd-40. But otherwise I agree with you, standard wd-40 is not a good lubricant.

 

I had the same problem. See post #574.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/page-29

It seems like an issue with the solenoid not moving far enough in one direction or the other. Mine is working OK since my fix. There is probably a better way to do it but that's what I came up with at the time.

 

WD40 will lubricate but it is not close to your best choice.

 

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My pop and lock would hang up as well and not un-lock. I pulled my cover apart and tried repairing it a number of times before finally getting the right fix. I had some blind thread rivets (#8 - 32 and ½” long) in one of my junk bins that came from, well I don’t know where they came from. I pulled the lock back out and used a 5/32 drill bit to drill out a hole on the pivot arm. I would recommend a punch/nail or smaller bit (plot hole) to make a sure you get dead center when using the larger bit. There’s not a lot of extra material if you mess up. I believe the M4 threaded rivet is the metric equivalent and is readily available on Amazon or EBay. I don’t know if any of the local hardware stores carry these.

 

WD40 has lubricant like properties when first sprayed on something but is not meant to be a long term lubricant, once it dries up you're basically back to where you started. It does help to remove any crud and grime that may have built up over time causing parts to stick.

 

I use it to clean out squeaks, then chase with silicone spray or other lubes. Wears off too fast otherwise.