Another Stereo Upgrade Thread

Hey guys,

So I'm in the middle of my process for an upgrade to my stereo in my 2017 DC. I just wanted to get some opinions on what I might NEED or something you have found that has helped the process go smoother as far as install.

Yes I have searched so please do not tell me to search. (sorry but forums tend to have a quicker response of "why don't you search bro")

ANYway,

I'm doing this as of right now:

Alpine Type S 10" Sub - 2 ohm
Alpine Type S 6x9s
Alpine Type S 6 1/2" with some Tweets
Alpine MRV-M500 for Components
Alpine MRV-F300 for the Sub

I've already messaged @Mr Marv about a box. I've also found @Man of Steel TRD thread from a couple years ago to be very informative but there is a shit ton of info on there. So maybe things have changed.

I'm still looking at wiring, mounts, etc. I'm also quite confused about these sound processors everyone keeps talking about. It's been about 8 years or so since I've dealt with stereo equipment but I never used these? Is it simply because of the bass roll off in the newer vehicles? When did they start this, I had stereos in 06-07 cars and never used anything like this and thought it was perfectly fine. In which case if I NEED it, then I'm looking into the LC7i simply because of function and price.

So any help or advice on which direction I could go is appreciated, also advice on wiring kits or wiring help is also appreciated.

Again, I went through 14 pages of audio so..if you can link me to helpful posts then fine but at least provide me with something helpful.

 

Also, if you are in the Orlando Florida area and could provide help, let's have a chat! Hahah!

 

PMd

 

Processors do a lot of things. They give you a greater level of equalization than most any other device (like 30 parametric bands on each output in the ones I use), active crossovers, time alignment, delayed remote (to help with turn-on pop issues), etc. They can eliminate the need for a head unit altogether or let you integrate your factory head unit seamlessly. They can correct for factory equalization. They're a very good thing. They've also been around for quite a while, but were pretty expensive until recently. You can still dump 4 figures on one easily, but that's not necessary. You can get a decent 2x4 for $100.

 

I'm going to go piece by piece through everything

1) the alpine type s 10" might be a bit too deep for behind the seat (normally shallow mount subs are needed, but you're headed in the right direction by seeking help from mr marv. He can advise on what will and will not fit.)

2) I would swap your speaker selection, and go with the 6x9" components (front) and the 6.5" coaxials (rear)

these models should be
front, S-S69C
rear, S-S65

this is because your front factory location is a 6x9, as well as the tweeters in the dash. An your rears are 6.5's with no location for seperate tweeters.

3) I'm just assuming you got the amp for the speakers and sub flipped. F300 for speakers, M500 for sub. Great amps for the money!

4)as far as wiring and random parts go, you'll for sure need brackets to mount the speakers in the doors without having to drill new holes in your brand new door.

$20 Metra 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter Fits SELECT 2002-UP Lexus and Toyota Vehicles

Metra 82-8146 for the front, and the 82-6600 worked well for the rears

You'll also probably want 2 packs of the

$18 72-8104 Speaker Wire Adapters for Select Toyota Vehicles - 4 Total Adapters

72-8104 speaker harnesses, just so you don't have to cut off the factory harness.

Then I'd suggest 2 rolls of speedwire (9 wire multiconductor cable, offered by all major brands. Metra, stinger, install bay, etc)
This will let you get the audio signal from the radio to the amp, then from the amp back to the dash into the factory wiring.
Along with this will be the

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

Metra 70-1761 and

$12 71-1761 87-94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 harnesses. These will allow you to make a plug/play harness to avoid cutting/splicing behind the radio.




Unplug 2 connections, plug in your t-harness you created, re-install radio!

5) Processors

These get a bit mixed up with everything on the market these days. You have things like the LC7i that are just very good high/low converters. It will handle bass roll off in certain vehicles (to my ears, our trucks don't seem to do that luckily) but it also will create a subwoofer channel since you will only have front/rear input signals. This works hand in hand with the remote they offer that acts as a subwoofer volume knob. (most knobs that plug into the amp itself are actually gain control knobs, and that's a big no-no)

The LC7i is what I use personally, and does very good for what I wanted. But it is not a processor. It is not actually changing any of the audio signals and gives you zero adjustment of the audio frequencies passing through it.

Processors (such as the JL fix 86, rockford dsp, audiocontrol lcq1, kicker frontrow) actually allow you to change the levels of the audio frequencies themselves. Picture an aftermarket radio with the 13 columns, going from the bass 40hz up to the high 5-10khz range, and the preset eq's (rock, pop, super bass, etc)

The processors is letting you do that same stuff, but instead of doing it on the radio, you're doing it on the processor. Our radios give you a 3-band EQ (bass, mid, treble) but some of these processors give you up to 32 bands of EQ.

Whether or not you need something like this vs something like the LC7i is a personal preference based on how much control you want over your music. I used good equipment, and am not terribly concerned with having 32 bands of EQ to mess with. I have been more than happy with what I'm using. Others would scoff at even the thought of not using a processor and gold plated speaker wire and Focal speakers. To each their own!

6) In conclusion, hopefully this helps you out a bit on getting the right stuff for your setup!

 

I kind of wish this would have been an option when I put my system together.
https://youtu.be/flz6sq1dCuk

 

Yeah AudioControl has been killing it lately!

 

@destin_meeks Damn thanks for that! That's actually quite helpful. Yea I did have the amps labeled backwards haha! Also, AH! That's correct on the door speakers thanks for straightening that out because I would have definitely gotten those mixed up. Head was kind of in the right place but I hadn't final checked everything yet for sizing! Also, yea those amps are awesome for the price. I've used models before these in all of my stereos and they have just been great.

Yes, I was hoping it wouldn't be too deep, I'd always used Alpine stuff before and I'd gotten them into some tight spaces so hopefully it would fit. I'm fine with super close just as long as it's super close to NOT fitting, hahah! I'm a little OCD when it comes to brands being mixed and having all one brand inside is just is the bees knees.

I really appreciate the part numbers on those harnesses, I saw that little T monster in so many posts last night but hadn't dove entirely into figuring that part out yet. I think I'd rather do it that way then spending 70 Shamolies on a ********* harness.

Then, the LC7i....yea...I understand what you mean. I'm not a sound engineer so..32 bands are just 32 ways for me to screw something up..I don't need all of that nonsense. I'm not creating a concert venue in this thing, I just want some clear loud sound with a little bass thrown in there. I listen to punk rock and hardcore type stuff so...I'm just looking for overall better sound quality. Which is what makes me question the LC7i in the first place. Not only have I never used one, I really don't think I'd notice that much bass roll off? Should I go with it, I hope that knob is a optional piece only, because I honestly can't stand those knobs. I don't know what it is about them but I just don't like the thought of having to control that thing too.

 

Like I said, I don't believe our trucks do bass roll off (if they do, I sure haven't noticed it)
You definitely don't NEED the LC7i.

If you want to keep it very simple, the F300 has speaker level inputs, as well as a full-bandwidth set of pre-outs. Run your speedwire from the headunit straight into the F300, and then run a short set of RCA cables from the pre-outs over to the M500. Boom! Done.

Set the front channel crossover to around 80, the rears to around 100, and the sub to around 80-100 (tweak based on music selection) and call it a day.

 

You are taking all the words out of my mouth man.

 

Check out miniDSP.

I don't see used a lot in Car Audio but their home theater models are very popular (and very powerful).

https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-6x8

 

Yessss....I was just telling @Man of Steel TRD that this is how I used to wire my old stereos with some rca cables set up like that. Now...I just need to find a diagram online to remember how to wire all this shit together, hahah!

I've just heard back from a couple shops and I'm not down to spend $400+ on something I can just spend a day doing and relearning

 

That's the glory of using the

$12 71-1761 87-94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 and

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

70-1761 harnesses. No diagrams needed. Hell, it's even color coded to match the speedwire. A few butt connectors or solder splices and you're done.

 

Oh I mean like...Power wires..amp kits...etc. Haha! You guys helped a ton with those harnesses and links!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-bbp-audio-build.430252/page-7

Page 7 of my thread has a detailed write up for making the harness with speedwire.

 

I would run a single 4awg (true copper, nojne of that CCA garbage) back from the battery, and then a 2-fuse distribution block by the amps. 100 amp fuse at the battery. 50 amp fuse to the f300, 60 amp to the m500. Then whatever length you need of decent RCA cable to get from one amp to the other.

 

I wouldn't even bother with rear speakers, you don't hear them.

 

You do when you replace them and throw 50w each to them lol

 

That and my stereo OCD wouldn't allow that...hahah! If I'm replacing stuff I'm replacing it all