Fix for Squeaking Clutch

I was so long ago that I had forgotten. The parts are from a clutch master cylinder. Don't have any pictures of the collar. All you need is something that prevents the spring from jamming the piston. The old Toyota spring had a reduced diameter end that fitted on a peg at the back of the piston. The collar fitted a regular spring onto the peg and kept it centred.

See picture Toyota spring is the upper one and regular spring is lower one. See the peg at the back of green piston. Collar isn't in this picture.

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the Ford clutch master cylinder. I am able to snap the Ford spring onto the lip of the piston circled in red. I think it will work but I'm concerned if it will interfere with anything. It's a tight fit so I am not too concerned with it popping off down the road. I'll post a pic of what I have this evening when I get home along with all the pieces I pulled out of the Ford part. Getting fed up with the chirp and with the URD sleeve/bearing not eliminating the chirp and the URD Hydro-bearing being out of stock for who knows how long (URD told me they don't know when they'll get more) I'm running out of options other than trying this.

 

Add me to the chirp club. Just started last Saturday. @VoodooBlueATL any update on success/failure?

 

It was a fail. It's possible that I waited too long. I'll be installing the hydro bearing as soon as it's back in.

 

The more and more of these TOB chirp posts i read, the more i think i should just wait and do the damn hydro mod. None of the others seem to last. I guess i could try the spring and collar, if i can track down either, since mine just started. Take it you have to rebleed the clutch after changing the spring?

 

Yes

 

Posted this in another thread as well. This was what I got back asking when hydro bearing would be back in stock.

Well, sent an email to urd on stock situation and this is the response I got back,

"Don't know yet. Doing a design review to see if we can improve it.

Steve (Gadget) Dopler"

Makes me wonder if there was issues with the design. Update from some long time use, from someone, would be nice. Not sure what route to go now.

 

Interesting comment. If by hydro bearing you mean the concentric TOB URD were peddling then I read some of their early marketing material and it was obvious they didn't know what the problem was. (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/black-magic-of-the-clutch-release-system.461759/#post-15455821) So it was hit and miss whether their mod would work. If they now realise that you have to preload the TOB then they've finally got it right.

 

Their fix, were you cut the snout off and replace with a bracket carrying a hydraulically operated TOB.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-fix-u-hydro-bearing-conversion-kit.440410/page-2 See post 27
I havent found any long time reports on it yet and its been out of stock for awhile. The response above from them, was what i got back when asked if it would come back in stock. Makes me think there has got to be some kind of issues with it. You cant go back once you try it.

 

OK, underneath that lovely green cover is a spring. If the TOB sufficiently presses against the clutch disk fingers everything will work beautifully and if it touches only lightly then you have trouble. Remember that when your clutch is worn the fingers move towards the TOB while with a new clutch the fingers might be too far forward. So this should work better with a worn clutch (but who just changes the TOB?). If URD understood what was happening they'd give you some shims and instructions on how to get a proper preload. That said, their concept is a good, expensive solution.

 

I'm leaning towards just trying a different spring as you did, but have to look at finding a perch(cant remember right word) for that spring to ride on. Being mine just started not two weeks ago.

 

I might be out of place saying but my first gen developed a squeaky clutch years ago but only when I would disengage and engage the clutch then finally one day the clutch would not disengage luckily I was close to home. What I found was a broken clutch release leaver so I pulled the trans and noticed the fresh crack that finished it off but also cracks with rust . It made me remember years ago when off road a chunk of something hung up under the truck and disengage the clutch momentarily but all was good that was maybe 15 years ago it finally broke completely last year

 

I just looked at my original post and it was April 9th, 2013. Five years of trouble free motoring, same clutch, TOB and no noise, with the only problem being the years of others complaining that it can't be done. But there have been a few that came along and I applaud their open mindedness and wish them good motoring.

 

Any idea on where to look for the perch/clip for the spring? You remember what yours was from?

 

I waited too long before installing the spring and my bearing was too far gone for the spring to help. I should have done it a while back. I notice mine only chirps when the temps are below 50 degrees. Warmer than that and no noise. I question whether there were issues with the hydro-bearing kits as well. Really hard to tell without any long term feedback from early adopters.

 

I've read post's with people talking about driving over 50k with it chirping, with no real leave you stranded failure. They just got sick of trying to fix it. I guess its worth a try, just dont know when i will have time to deal with it. May just live with it.

 

I'm really not worried about it exploding or anything. I'm just tired of my FJ sounding like a jalopy...

 

Lol, same here.

 

I’m getting ready to replace my spring pet Hladun’s prescription. Would you recommend doing my bearing at the same time?

 

I wouldnt. If i was going that far, i'd throw on one of the urd fixes.