URD fix-U hydro bearing conversion kit

I had the URD sleeve and new Exedy oem replacement clutch installed in summer of 2014. Lasted about 10k miles if I remember correctly. It was highly recommended as THE FIX at the time when I bought it, but turns out the squeak came back for a lot of people including me. Seems like 10-15k was the average.

My shop told me not to worry about it. Put over 25k miles since. Initially I was worried, but at this point I don't really care and will deal with the consequences if there are any when that happens. I don't know how to do the work myself and I'm not taking it apart until I need another clutch or until (if) it grenades. It is what it is I guess.

 

Hey man so I pulled my trans not too long ago and its actually the easiest trans to drop and reinstall I've ever worked on! The top 2 bolts on the bell housing are the hardest part but if you have some longer extensions you can get to them no problem. If you don't have any, I'd recommend going to harbor freight and getting the 3/8 drive set of extensions that has the wobble built on to the end of it so the socket has a little bit of wiggle room. A tranny jack is also gonna be a lifesaver here. I did this job by myself in about 5 hours. But all I did was remove the trans, install the sleeve and reinstall the trans. I didn't disassemble anything else besides the crossmember and a few other things needed to get it out... Good luck.

This is the extension set I used, comes with three drive sizes: Also the jack I used:

 

Great info! Thank you!! Did you do anything to tilt the motor down while reinstalling it? I was recommended to do so by URD as to not damage the new quill while trying to line the input shaft back up to the motor. I will definitely be buying those extensions. I've also seen someone say they removed the exhaust manifold to get to those bolts? I haven't looked yet so i'm not sure how that would help, but would it be worth it? and where did you access the top bolts from with your extensions. From underneath? or from the hood?

 

I didn't need to tilt the motor to realign the input shaft, it actually went back in very easily, I just angled the trans to match the angle of the motor as I slid it back in (the trans jack was a big help here since it the top part is adjustable so you can pitch the trans up or down)- got it as flush as I could to the bell housing and slowly torqued the bolts down to speck criss-cross around the bell housing. I did also remove some sections of the exhaust... the two parts on each side that come directly off of the header from each side... and the y pipe portion that connects back to the exhaust.

If you needed to tilt the motor you could probably get a jack under the front of it in some way.

Also I accessed all the bell housing bolts from underneath the truck. Everything was done underneath the truck actually. If you really put your extensions on one after the other you will have them stacked up to where its a couple feet long and it has enough wiggle in it to where you can snake the extension stack up above the trans with the socket on it with one hand and guide it in onto the bolt head with your other hand.

There is also an electrical harness that runs along the top of the transmission you need to disconnect. It connects into a bracket that one of the upper bell housing bolts slides through, so getting it back into place can be a pain.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...on-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.338840/

 

The only other thing I might add is to get the new hydraulic hose routed down behind the engine with clamps to engine block before reinstalling the transmission. Also position the tee fitting with bleeder pointed up.

 

So I have all my parts and I have one more thing even better!!!!!!

Im in Utah. Im a part of Wasatch Tundras and Tacomas, an 1100 member group here for the folks in Utah that just cant get enough of Toyota. There is a certified Toyota tech coming to help me tomorrow for this job. Thanks to WTT, that is. So I intend to be as thorough as I can on this. Especially with his help. I want to make sure that if any issues come up, I can rule out installation. Anyway.... Heres a taste of of the job.





So as you can see, the most important thing is the beer.

Ive got a new carrier bearing and U joint going in. All the exhaust gaskets since we've got to take that off. Some cleaner for the housing, dot 4 for the blead, pb blaster because, well, you've gotta have pb blaster, hydro bearing conversion kit with lines and all, stage 2 URD clutch, and the torque-u heavy flywheel. TBC.......................

 

Subed for the adventure!!!

 

All I can say is

 

I did this myself last year, not too bad. I went ahead and replaced the rear main seal just cause it was there, but I messed up putting the new one in and had to do a "do-over".

The one tip I do have is that I had to shave/grind down some of the casting inside the bell housing to get the bracket to sit right and be able to put the snap ring on. it took me the better part of a day to figure out why i couldn't get the bracket to sit right.

 

How's the pedal feel? Good instructions?

 

All great info guys! Thank you! My toyota tech that is coming to help me out is running a little late. So i wont be starting for another 20 or 30 min. But im all geared up and ready to go. Ill try to take as many pics as i can.

 

I like that. Mine is coming next week. I wish you a smooth installation.

 

One other thing I would recommend after completion and some driving, would be retorquing the clutch pressure plate bolts while having someone depress the clutch pedal.

 

Well I get what you're saying, kind of. First, I'm not dropping the transmission a second time just to retorque those bolts. Secondly, how in the world do you retorque the pressure plate bolts AND depress the clutch at the same time? I'm not following you here...

 

Well everyone, it went smoothly!!!! It took a very long time. I had a toyota tech come help me and getting the transmission out was fairly easy. I have pictures I would upload later. Here is what we did in order for those of you who haven't pulled this trans before.

1. Disconnect batter since you will be removing starter
2. You will have to remove your center console. It's not super hard.
3. Remove the shifter covers and the shifter. The shifter will push down and twist to remove from the transmission. Look up some videos if you're not sure.
3. Undo the exhaust flange from the cat back. The cat back can stay in the truck.
4. Undo the exhaust flanges between the y pipe and the first two cats on either side. This section will slide out from the rear of the truck. (remove 02 sensor clips first) there are also some brackets connecting the cats to the trans. Remove those while you're there.
5. Undo front and rear drive lines. Make sure you index the driveline with a punch. You can do this by punching a mark just on the housing right where the drivelines separate. there are a thousands of ways do this so however works for you. Just make sure you bolt them on in the exact same position as you took them off.
6. There are some sheilds you'll want to remove. one is under the trans and then you can also remove the one where the peak hole is going into the trans.
7. If you're doing this swap, you can remove the slave cylinder. Otherwise, just disconnect the hydraulic line.
8. Undo the electrical connectors to the trans.
9. Undo the starter. There are two bolts and three different wires. Its a bitch so good luck. You don't have to remove it all the way. We didn't pull it from the truck. We just got it out of the way of the trans and it rested in its home. You cannot leave the starter on and pull the trans without it being a struggle getting the trans out.
10. Throw a jack under the crossmember that holds the transmission in place and rest it there. Undo the two bolts on each side that hold the crossmember in place. Drop the cross member onto the jack with the transmission and all. If drop that cross member with the trans about 4" under its normal height and rest it on the jack, you can reach all the top bell housing bolts with about a 3-4' extension. its really not too hard. you just need that extension on a swivel socket wrench and you'll get it. they're 17mm.


I'll upload more later. There are some basic steps for pulling the trans. I'm so sore! I started at 12pm on saturday. My toyota tech helped me until 10pm. We got the bell housing bolts torqued and the clutch bled and then I did the rest myself. I was up until 430am finishing her up. Long day. Very very sore. Slept 12 hours the next day. I have pictures coming.

Clutch felt a little weird at first, but i think it's just breaking in. Engagements are smoother. I installed the heavy flywheel and you can tell the mass of that thing keeps the momentum of the motor going. It makes downshifts smoother and starts smoother. THE MOTHER FUCKIN SQUEEK IS GONE. I do have a slight engagement noise on the clutch, and i'll explain why in a later post. But just know I believe this engagement noise will go away as the clutch settles in. I'm getting plenty of engagement out of the throwout bearing. Its slightly stiffer than stock. The stage 2 clutch kit has a ton of springs in the clutch disk and that has improved the bouncy/jerky feeling of the first gear starts!

 

Didnt get as many pics as i wanted but here you go.

 

Yeah the FSM outlines it pretty good as far as dropping the trans and re-installing it...

What kind of engagement noise do you have? I have something similar when engaging first from a dead stop. Sounds like a slight hissing sound, almost like an air leak. I havent really committed to dropping the trans one more time to figure out whats causing it.

 

So my engagement noise is when I release or push in the clutch. The adapter ring that goes around the clutch plate fingers causes this. I think once those clutch fingers break in and wear out a little bit, that creaky noise i'm getting will go away. Its obvious that the slight creak I'm getting is caused by that adapter plate holding the fingers together as the clutch is depressed. We were able to witness it after we bled the clutch and had that window into the bell housing to look through. I'm not too worried about it. It's 10 fold better than the squeak I was dealing with. Your description sounds like something in the hydraulic line if you're getting a hissing noise. Although, I feel like the action of engaging the Hydrobearing does have some audible noise to it. So far I'm pretty confident everything is working as intended.