What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Can i. See a. Pic of how you ran the wires under the hood?
Link to the light?
Thanks

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-For-OEM-2016-2017-2018-Toyota-Tacoma-TRD-PRO-Grille-Insert-PT228-35170-Grill/263677751659?fits=Year:2016|Make:Toyota|Model:Tacoma&epid=14018184518&hash=item3d646b316b:g:s3QAAOSwKOJa9l6-&vxp=mtr

Anyone running one of these? How does it fit?

$100 for the pro grille is a crazy good price

*Edit* 1st picture shows Toyota, rest show 'TOYO' which I don't want!

 

my wife's 2016 Highlander battery crapped out last night...about to head to the auto parts store to get a new one. frustrating.

Edit: ended up going to costco, picked up a 700 CCA Interstate 24F battery for $84.99

 

A co-worker of mine just changed the oil in his last weekend and learned some lessons that may help you. He described it in email. I'll try to paste it below in case it's helpful. He's a very serious car guy and it was enough to throw some curve balls at him it seems:

"Notes from that experience.

1.You are not replacing a typical self-contained canister oil filter but rather just the filter insert and o-rings.

2.You will need a special tool. It looks like a normal oil filter wrench that you can put on the end of a 3/8 ratchet. However this has cut out teeth / claw. 12 bucks at almost any car parts store. I picked mine up at smythe because my folks have a hard on for smythe. It is who they do all there paint supplies with etc.

3.They make a replacement canister made out of metal. The parts guy went and got it to confirm a 64mm Toyota oil wrench would fit. It did.

a.I should have just had him leave it on the counter and bought it as well.

b.Because, the factory item is PLASTIC. Now, I am sure it works fine and if you hand start and do not cross thread could get a lot of life out of it. That said, if you have bozos at a Valvoline shop doing your oil change…could result in a disaster. At 23k (10K miles from now) when I do my oil again, I will replace this bottom plastic oil canister with a metal/aluminum whatever it is."

 

That is really cool !!!!


I'd love to hear sound clips of that monster.

 

I'll definatley add some some video with good quality sound to the thread. I'm trying to avoid the crumby smartphone recording. My fiance has a nice Camera with external mic. I just need her to teach me to use it

 

Best ever was my 2007 Volvo - Battery lasted 10 years and 85000 miles before I finally had to get a new one.

 

I've seen this as low as $17:

$21 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A

I used this adapter to do the first oil change at about 5k:

Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.5 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XF45NF

It worked great. I can see the plastic housing lasting the life of the Taco if treated well. The recommended tightening torque is stamped right on the housing.

But yeah, I'm holding my breath until I do the first change after ToyotaCare is up.

 

My 2nd gen Tacona original made it 9 years. Then I had to buy 3 over the next 4 years. Once you get a warranty from a company that pro-rates, you have to keep going back or it doesn't make financial sense. It was a duralast gold. Won't be doing that again.

 

Fits like a glove! I would recommend putting super glue on the backside of the letters just for extra insurance. I installed mine about 2 weeks ago.

 

Need some help with that fridge?

 

After my first oil change aka the Exxon Valdez I picked one of these up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BS7JE8M?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

If I would've bothered to do a little research on draining the cartridge I would've saved myself a mess lol.

I've contemplated the metal housings but they kinda worry me. I figure I'd much rather have a plastic cap become striped than run the risk of a metal cap damaging the threads on the filter assembly.

 

The little plastic nipple that came with the cartridge filter worked well enough to drain the housing.

If you start the housing by hand (that has to be said because, when I was kid helping my Dad, I liked to start lug nuts with the four way wrench. Yeah, cross threading a stud put an end to that.), metal or plastic will be just fine and cross threading would not be a concern to me. I believe that folks have said that the metal one does thread on a bit easier.

I've had cars / bikes with both plastic and metal housings. Either does the job just as good as the other, IMHO.

Also, nylons, esp fiber reinforced stuff, is as strong if not stronger than cast aluminum.

 

Well the first oil change I looked at the plastic nipple and thought WTF is this garbage for and left it in the box

 

Haha! I looked at the two o rings, the bottom cover bolt, and the plastic nipple and dove for the service manual. It does make less of a mess but takes a good bit of pressure to compress the spring inside.

 

uh...yes you can. just need to have a Toyota tech re-calibrate the TSS stuff.

 

At work at the moment. I’ll take a pic later today for you. I drilled a hole in the plastic tray of the scoop to run the cable through and fished the cable through the gap in the hood leading towards the driver side corner to attach the wiring harness to the battery

Here’s a link to the thread I followed:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/light-bar-in-hood-scoop.545621/

 

Don't believe everything that internet guy says...

 

Well, this is discouraging. As I said in another post, I've been changing my batteries every 5 years and never had a problem.

Sounds like a up-sized battery bracket mod may be making the to-do list.

I looked at the Pelfreybilt and they sure are nice. I don't know about $130+ worth of nice, though. Has anyone found another less pricey, stainless steel pan/bracket that will fit with minimal hacking?

 

Delivery from the post office!