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10K Service

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by 07toyota1991, Apr 6, 2018.

  1. Apr 6, 2018 at 7:01 PM
    #1
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just scheduled my 10k service at the dealer and mentioned some issues that also need addressed such as my driver side door or A pillar has a very bad air leak. I also have a plastic to plastic dash rattle somewhere near the passenger side. I wanted to get this fixed on my 2016 before my factory warranty runs out. I did also mention that my OEM tonneau cover leaks like a cheap diaper. Have any of you had these issues addressed properly by the dealer, a few I know are tidious but this is also a near new vehicle

    Thanks!
     
  2. Apr 6, 2018 at 7:04 PM
    #2
    FHC

    FHC Well-Known Member

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    Turn up the radio and drive that thing more!
     
    suaveflooder and Kingair84 like this.
  3. Apr 6, 2018 at 7:11 PM
    #3
    shakerhood

    shakerhood Well-Known Member

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    The source of the dash noise is probably the passenger side speaker cover rubbing on the A Pillar.
     
    franch1se82 likes this.
  4. Apr 6, 2018 at 7:11 PM
    #4
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1999 Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab 2.7 5spd
    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S
    I have done that as long as I can! I drive around with clients for work constantly and they are like what's that noise...oh just my $35k truck rattling lol. Is there an easy solution to fix the speaker panel rattling against the A pillar without tearing much apart
     
  5. Apr 6, 2018 at 7:16 PM
    #5
    shakerhood

    shakerhood Well-Known Member

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    There is a Thread on here about it, some guys stick a toothpick or business card in as a quick solution and a permanent solution would be to pull the cover off and use some felt.
     
  6. Apr 6, 2018 at 8:25 PM
    #6
    Pittrider

    Pittrider Pitty, those needing correction.

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    Do you need to know, or care?
  7. Apr 7, 2018 at 7:02 AM
    #7
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1999 Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab 2.7 5spd
    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S
    I have read this thread before but in the past with other Tacomas I have owned, I have had extreme bad luck with interior plastics as far breaking them. May let dealer attempt first and if they can't get it I will attempt it. Thanks guys
     
    Lateralus01 likes this.
  8. Jun 1, 2018 at 7:52 AM
    #8
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1999 Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab 2.7 5spd
    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S
    So just a little update. The passenger rattle was fixed but they installed new door seals per a TSB and the air leak noise is still there. Seems to be coming from B Pillar or the top corner of the window. Sounds like the window is just barely down
     
  9. Jun 1, 2018 at 8:03 AM
    #9
    AlabamaBlackSnake

    AlabamaBlackSnake Well-Known Member

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    Yep a lot of annoyances and issues on mine too. Not what you expect for spending near 40 large ones
     
  10. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:03 AM
    #10
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Agree 100% have another appt June 9th at the dealer, this will be my 4th trip, and they don't act like they will have anymore reasoning than the first one
     
  11. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:17 AM
    #11
    hiPSI

    hiPSI Laminar Flow

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    I can tell you how to fix it but you might not feel comfortable with doing it. I did it to mine but I have experience working with metal. So, I am going to tell you how and suggest who can do it for you alright?

    Your door window frame needs to be slightly "sprung" towards the pillar. What this means is, with the window down and the door open, you can put a block of wood between the door and pillar and slightly push on the top corner of the door window frame. If done correctly, it will slightly (I mean slightly! like a millimeter) bend the window frame towards the pillar. By doing this, when the door is closed it will create a tighter seal between the weatherstrip and the cab, getting rid of the wind noise. But, it is easy to screw this up and bend it too much!

    Now you see why I said you might not feel comfortable doing this! So who can do it and has the training to do it? Any seasoned bodyman in a reputable shop can do it because they do it all the time. When you replace a door after an accident, the new door might not fit exactly right. This is one of the adjustments that might be needed.

    So if you really want to get rid of the wind noise, take it to a bodyshop, tell them your problem and see if they can help you out. It only takes a few minutes. Good luck!
     
  12. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:27 AM
    #12
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S

    Man, that sounds like a great idea and may do that after my warranty is up if it still isn't fixed. I just have a hard time doing that, like you said lol
     
  13. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:31 AM
    #13
    hiPSI

    hiPSI Laminar Flow

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    I would suggest it to them if they have a body shop. IMO that is the problem, why some of them have the wind noise there because I think some of the doors are not quite right. It took me like two minutes, but as I said, I have experience.
     
    shakerhood likes this.
  14. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:32 AM
    #14
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S
    Oh you had this same issue? That makes sense though. I mean other than that the only thing other than that is to replace window seal.
     
  15. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:46 AM
    #15
    hiPSI

    hiPSI Laminar Flow

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    Next time you are driving, reach up with your left fingers and push the door seal out a bit, right at the corner beside your left ear. That should quieten down the noise.
     
  16. Jun 1, 2018 at 9:55 AM
    #16
    devidstaco

    devidstaco You look like a mothsfuckin uhhhhh

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    I used to this these 30-40k trucks shouldn't have rattles.. Then I remembered it's still a Toyota. Lol turn up the music & enjoy the ride :burnrubber:
     
  17. Jun 1, 2018 at 10:40 AM
    #17
    hybridmanwv

    hybridmanwv New Member

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    I have the same noise at highway speeds >65 MPH or when curving right or in high cross winds. Mine is a whistle. Very irritating. They could not fix it. The window slide rail inside the door broke, and when they replaced that, the whistle stopped for about a month, then started back up, although not quite as loud. All in all I'm disappointed in the overall quality - too many warranty issues, including a 3 month quarantine for a leaky differential. May try the slight window frame push.
     
  18. Jun 13, 2018 at 1:23 PM
    #18
    07toyota1991

    07toyota1991 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1999 Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab 2.7 5spd
    5100's with OME 883, Dakar's, SCS Ray 10, 285/75/16 Cooper STT Pro, LCE header, Magnaflow exhaust, ARE shell, Addicted offroad front plate bumper with Warn VR8S
    Update: I believe we have finally covered some ground on this issue. I made an appointment with the body shop per the service manager's idea. They have tracked the air leak down to the front window seals. It appears from viewing whoever tinted the front windows, messed the seals up when shoving the tint down.
     

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