DFW BS Thread : ********NEW MEET!! CHECK POST #1*******

What you want for them. That’s what will happen to the ones I get eventually

 

5 16x8 3.5BS F5s in Black or gun metal

 

Full synthetic. No blend.

 

You cannot go wrong with the @hoarder23 seal of wheel!

Those wheels though. So nice.

 

Ordered my speakers from Crutchfield.

206CST20 Kicker 43CST204
206CSC6934 Kicker 43CSC6934
206CSC674 Kicker 43CSC674

This was recommended as sound deadening:

$166 Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP
I figure if I'm going to open up the doors to do the speakers, I might as well get that.

And for removing panels easily:

BlingKingdom 12 pcs Auto Pry Tools Kit Door Trim Panel Dash Stereo Radio Interior Light Removal

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I0SUZOY/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A21YO8NJDFH072

Anyone else have suggestions for making things work better?

 

Found this thread talking about installing an amp above the glove box like I mentioned a while ago, seems easy.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-alpine-power-pack-amp-install-question.550283/

 

I really didn't need anything to remove the panels except for a phillips screwdriver, flathead, and a panel tool which is kinda like the very top tool from the kit you linked.

Read up on how to install sound deadening though on doors because there is a certain way to do it behind the door speakers that help to improve the door speakers a ton.
http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%2dTo.html

I used the Raam mat in my truck and I am still running stock speakers and it improved my stock speakers and the way they sound a and hit a ton, only a matter of time before I bite the bullet and upgrade the entire system to make it even better.

The JL Stealthbox that is for sale on the marketplace sure is looking tempting as that would solve my sub problem since that goes on the passenger side and not the drivers side like the ********* and OEM audio sub boxes...

One other thing that I used that helped when doing the doors when it came to wires and such was aluminum tape (the stuff that is used for duct work) I used that on some of the wiring to hold it in place and also to seal stuff up even more...

 

@Naveronski not sure when you are doing the install, but you might ask @Zac of all trades as I gave him my left over ensolite foam that I had for his trailer project. Not sure if he has used it or not, so he may or may not have some left over? That goes on over the sound deadening stuff as you can see in the RAAM link I posted above.

 

Use the excess Noico and do the back wall. Pull the C pillars and put Noico there, then get some dynamat dynapad to put on top of the Noico on the back wall.

 

They sure make it look like a lot of work, so does the ********* video I watched. Might be biting off more than an evening's worth of install. How long did it take you? Does @Zac of all trades work for beer?!

I'd like to do it evenings during this week, but idk how feasible that will be. I might have to do it next weekend due to the amount of work involved.

Noted. Did you use Noico? I'm mainly wanting to cut the amount of wind/road noise I get inside. I rarely have my radio turned up enough to rattle things.

 

I use GTMAT on previous cars, using Noico in the truck, no complaints

 

I was going to say the same thing....

 

Assumptions are cool too

 

I would just "assume" it's not stolen and run with the good deal.

 

Yea, used Noico. Have done the back wall and rear doors, still need to do the fronts. Doubtful you’d be able to do all in a night, especially if you want good results and need to install new speakers. I did the back wall first. What takes the longest is cutting and measuring. I wanted to make sure it was done right the first time.

 

+500 in cash?

 

Yeah, that seems fair

 

I wish I was closer as I would be more than willing to help you with the install on it as I like doing stuff like that. I did mine over a weekend. I did the doors in one day, but I also had other things going on and was taking my time and had friends over bullshitting as well. I think I started at like 9 and stopped around 5 or so. That was after I had removed the rear seats and all that stuff and started to do the back wall and everything as well and then finished that up the next day. You can honestly do the front doors one day, rear doors the next day, and so forth. It is not something you have to do all at once. I just had a lot of material to work with so I went overboard and tried to put it anywhere I could so I took my time. Hell, in the end after going overboard on the doors, rear wall, and putting two layers on the roof, I still had sound deadening material leftover, so I went ahead and put some on the floor where I could without having to completely take up the carpet since I already had the front seats out of the truck with doing the headliner.

I would start with the rear doors so you understand how the material goes and how to remove the panels, then do the front doors and that way you do the front doors better than the rears.

 

@Naveronski

You going to run an amp or just going to run the speakers off the stock headunit?

I assume the Crutchfield is sending you everything to make those speakers pretty much plug and play right?

 

@Naveronski not sure why, but for some reason. Crutchfield is saying that the Kicker 43CSC6934 (206CSC6934) 6"x9" 3 Way Speakers don't fit my truck... did you have the same thing when you ordered?

I am pretty sure that the stock rear door speakers are 6x9s, or at least I thought they were.

Even though I could do two pairs of the Kicker 43CSC674 6-3/4" speakers and get the second pair for half off and would just have to use the adapter plate to run them on the rear doors...

Honestly, not even really sure I would need a 3 way speaker in the rear doors... and having a 2 way in the rear doors would work fine.