What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

It’s a sticky here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/

 

Thanks Tyler - I'm more interested in the hardwarehe used. No one made on like that without welding in the ol sticky that I remember. I have plans to make one out of plywood and an old crank pulley, but I like his design.

 

My mill & bandsaw. Well didn't need to use my mill, just used the the mill as a drill press. No welder needed & it's adjustable so you can use on other crank pulleys in the future if needed.

Oh, you mean what materials?

Flat steel 1"x1/4" 2ft length, two 3/8"-16 grade 8 bolts 2" long, a 1" long one for the pivot, & 5 nuts. Cut an 8" section off the 2ft flat bar. Drill two 3/8" holes on both ends of the 8" section, 1/2" from the ends. With the remaining long section of the flat bar, drill one 3/8" hole from the end & another 3/8" hole 7-1/4" in from the same end which is for the pivot. Cut the heads off the 2" long bolts, with one of the bolts 1/4" shorter than the other & assemble. I used a bandsaw to cut the heads off the bolts so if you use some other method that makes a wider cut might want to yo start out with slightly longer bolts.

The 3/8" bolts fit the counterbore holes for the M8 thread on the crank pulley perfect.

 

Hmm, maybe I should post a thread on how to make it? Really anyone can make it using just a hacksaw & a drill.

 

Where did you get the bolts from?

 

Got everything from Lowes.

 

I had a hard time finding grade 8 last time I looked around my area without paying an a lot at Fatenal, but I didn't check at Lowes - maybe I should have looked there. Yeah my dremel and a drill would make this happen quickly and easily. I might still try my method since all the parts are readily available to me, but this is the easiest method of making one yet!

 

EDIT: I’m wrong this is for removing the tension on basic serpentine belts with the pull type tensioner please forgive my ignorance. Yes, you can make it cheaper with steel flat stock but for convenience sake I prefer the ready made tool.

To each his own, I suppose. Haha.

 

Lowes, Home Depot, & all the usual big box hardware stores carry grade 8 bolts. My tool is not threading into the M8 threads on the crank pulley so metric bolts aren't needed. In fact the 3/8" is best cause it fits perfect in the counterbores. I'll post a thread on how to make it.

 

Has it been verified that that tool works? A lot of generic tools don't work on the 5vz pulley.

 

Didn’t think about that. You’re right, I actually have no idea if that would work with the 5VZ.

 

How does that tool work to hold the crank pulley to crack loose the crank bolt? That tool is for the spring tensioner on engines that use serpentine belts. I use a tool like that often when I was a mechanic but that won't work for the crank pulley.

 

I’m mistaken. It won’t work.

 

Not a lot of tractors in LA sir - j/k but the nearest store is 40 miles away

 

Same here. I’ve been trying to find good parts washer solvent for my parts washer, and Tractor Supply sells it in 5 gallon totes.

Problem is the nearest Tractor Supply is 40-50 miles away.

 

Speaking of solvents - anyone know where and how I can dispose of bad / old gasoline?

 

I highly recommend filling that with either Gunk carb cleaner or B12 chemtool carb cleaner, unless Cali doesn't allow those to have chemicals that make them work. Usually you can get gallon cans at auto stores. Although I've only used it in an ulrtrasonic cleaner, but should hold up just fine for other things.

 

Take it to a Hazadrous Waste Center. Your city should have some kind of center for that.

I leave my labeled waste on the curb and the recycling truck has facilities on board to dispose of it. I’ve left things from Parts Washer Solvent to Transmission Fluid.

Depends on your city really.

 

I just dump it in the cruiser with a near full tank when it is only a gallon or less

 

@devinzz1 what were you torquing the intake manifold bolts that go to the cylinder heads to - I'm thinking that "Intake manifold, Intake manifold stay x Cylinder head-13" is the spec I should be looking at from here: