AC/Heater fan only works on high

i have a 2011 V6 and the AC/Heater fan now only works on high. I replaced the blower resistor with the follow kit but it didn’t fix the issue; still high only.
Dorman 973-582 Blower Motor Resistor...

$22 Dorman 973-582 HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Kit Compatible with Select Toyota Models

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8VL9UC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Please help.

 

Sounds like a switch problem if you already replaced the resistor.

 

This is probably the problem, the fan connector:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/before-you-replace-the-blower-resistor.107093/

 

Not trying to be a dick but if you clicked on the Amazon link in my first post you would have seen that the kit I purchased came with a new connector set.

 

Can you elaborate please? Maybe link me to a switch I can buy online.

 

Think electronic throttle body and pedal assembly. You changed the throttle body but it still only moves when you mash the pedal. Bad pedal. Your situation, bad HVAC fan control switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9849E-TACO...ash=item2aa6868885:g:ZlEAAOSwSKtaY1aJ&vxp=mtr


This is speculation though... It is up to you to do your tests before dropping $150 on a new climate control switch.

 

Mine did this as well. Luckily still under warranty and toyota replace the throttle control panel

 

I've had the same issue with my 2006 tacoma. Already replaced the blower motor resister and the connector, but at different times. Each time it fixed it for a little while and would only work on high again. I'm going to replace both at the same time and see if it works

 

OP, there is the old Dorman and the new Dorman. Once upon a time Dorman had a decent reputation for aftermarket parts, but in recent years I have had bad luck with the new stuff and would never consider using their electrical parts, YMMV. I have been recommending the ACDelco kit for the reason that the entire HVAC in our trucks is a GM special and they came up with the kit as a fix. Probably ToyMoCo's parts in the TSB is a repackaged version of this and that would make sense because of the earlier GM/Toyota joint venture.

Here is a TSB for the problem that appeared in the fall of 2011 and you may find something useful therein.
T-SB-0149-11.pdf

 

Thank you for this!!!

 

I bought one on Amazon for $22 I believe worked perfect

 

I recently went to my local dealer to get a new resistor and connection. It needed a new connection because the new recommended resistor was an upgrade and wouldn’t fit the old connection.

 

I had the same problem and replaced the resistor it worked for about 20 minutes and quit again. The resistor got very hot. I removed the motor and the cap is rusty. Should the fan motor spin freely because mine takes a little effort?

 

I replaced mine with the new Toyota design that quietly came out in...2018 or so? The connector was changed with a presumably better, square shaped design. The parts counter gave me a kit that included the new design resistor, new square pigtail, and butt connectors.

I've had it on for over 8 months and have had zero issues, after replacing just the resistor before and having everything fail again and again.

 

It should spin freely. Sounds like you need a new motor, though some folks take them apart, clean and relube them.

 

you need a motor and another new resistor. Check the connector pins for melting too

 

Thanks to all the replies. The connector pins look fine.

 

There are two connectors that can fail, or have a bad connection: the 4-pin that goes into the resistor, and the two-pin that goes into the blower.
My first issue was that the #3 blower speed setting did not work. That was due to one of the pins in the resistor connector. Using fine file set, I removed the haze and used a pick to bend the tab back into shape. Then, the fan would only work on high. That was due to a bad connection at the blower. It had got so hot it melted the connector. I had to use .187 female pins to wire directly to the blower. I posted pictures on another thread years ago. In my case there was nothing wrong with the resistor or the blower; it was shitty connectors.

 

The motor should spin freely with little to no resistance. It sounds like the motor is binding causing increasing current draw. If the blower is not spinning there is no air flow across the resistor and it will get hot and burnout. That is why it is inserted into the air flow duct to cool it off.

 

Anyone have any problems with the new type resistor going bad like the old style ones? Mine seems to be taking a dump this past two days (when its conveniently about 110 outside).
Will the new "new" style work (The one that was posted above that came out in 2018 with new connectors ?) in my 2006 Prerunner?