Pelfreybilt ::: Front & Rear Bumper Options ::: 2nd Gen (05-15)

Thanx. I made a mount to be secured with the 3 lugs holding the spare tire, than the rotopax 4gal mount is bolted to my mount.

 

Awesome! I don't have the metal fab skills, so I'll have to be on the lookout for something that'll work then. Thanks for the pics!

 

https://rotopax.com/jeep-tire-mount.html

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...-AJom8rH4VzTeUdw7Ng-EZIwq5O8q4iRoCqPsQAvD_BwE

 

Will those work since they are identified for a jeep (5 lug) spare tire?

 

I don't know if the pattern is close enough to work. Would probably need to drill new holes for the Toyota lug pattern.

 

Badass!

 

Powder coat lead time is about 1 week or less currently, and we charge 250 as well.

 

Are these supposed to go anywhere for a second gen standard rear bumper with swingout, no table or hilift mount? Would be nice if a $1600 bumper came with a parts and tools list and actual instructions. Pretty sure I figured it out and got it installed but those would've made the job a lot simpler.

 

I believe those are for the table, you might have just gotten them by accident. Oh, and I need a new flip kit after backing into something.. what is the rest of the part number after FLP-0..?

 

FLP-001

 

Thanks! Enjoy your new bumper

 

Those are for the table, they are standard in the hardware kit! The table can be added later with a riveter if you keep those you will have everything you need!

 

Can you provide a picture as to how the table is secured and how those wing nuts and rubber washers are used? Or just an explanation ha.

 

The wing nuts are to hold the table in the up position. Generally this is how the tables are made and those wing nuts go at the top to hold it closed except the one below has a latch to keep it closed

 

Yea after a little more searching I found an image showing that. I think they forgot to attach the stud for the wing nuts to tighten down. There are two center punch marks where they should be.

 

Hey guys,
I've been experiencing some difficulty in releasing the latch on my swing-out gate and I'm pretty sure it should not require me to really yank on it break it free. The post that sits in the cradle has had its powdercoating stripped off and I'm starting to think if I need to try and re-seat the spindle to alleviate the pressure. Has anyone else had any similar issues?

 

You may have the spindle tightened down too much, back the castle nut off a little and see if that helps. Used to be a common problem, people would tighten it too much, pushing the spindle side down, forcing the latch side up, making it difficult to use.

 

Thanks! I'll take a look at it when I get the chance and report back

 

Also, as a follow-up (because I haven't looked at the spindle yet), I remember having to get the castle nut down far enough to get the cotter-pin in. Recommendations if loosening the castle nut results in being unable to slide the cotter-pin in?

 

Do you have anything on the swing out (full size spare gas cans etc?) There is a built in 1/4" of preload on the gate to get it unlocked and thats to keep to from vibrating and falling apart and its set at that amount for then you have the gate loaded up so it still manages to do the same thing. For instance, Evan's truck only has the tire mounted and empty rotopax, his gate is harder to open. I always have a 35" spare and two full Jerry Cans on the back and mine is easier to open.