Let's Talk Rear "LT"

a 14bolt is going to be heavy. even shaved, disk brakes (with lighter wilwood calipers) its still like 350lbs lol. now you could go lighter with 6lug alu hubs, gun drilled axles but its still a pig. I have one in my FJ40 and its bulletproof but heavy. if i was going to do something in a taco i would do a 9" and truss it.

 

how good are you at welding? I have a bump kit that i was thinking about selling thats all laser cut and just needs to be welded up.

 

So I’m going thru this thread because I’m in the same boat. It seems like my better options for the rear is either link or Sua?

 

If you have $3-7k for sua or more for links, then

 

I do but I just spent 6k on the front. It still hurts to look at my bank account right now lol

 

Expect to spend minimum 10k with links

 

I'm sure this has been mentioned, but if switching to SUA how much hindering does this do to towing and still have a very capable off road truck.

I think we're rated at 6500 lbs towing, will SUA lower it to what 4000 maybe even 3000?

 

I've got the same question... Just got my hands on a new trailer, about the same weight. The question is, will the springs sag after periodically towing the trailer?

 

People do it. It usually sags the rear a lot, though. There's different stiffer springs and airbags if you really have to tow. Most guys make a choice to have a toy hauler or a prerunner. Depends on how much you're thinking of towing... here's a of trailer / lt rear setup

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jberrys-dingleberry-expo-trailer.289196/

 

Best bet would be to have a detachable floating air bag system that you can add in when you tow and then unbolt quickly quickly when you want to play.

 

What’s the benefit of going this route than SUA?

 

There's a guy in here with military beadlocks, if I remember right he had a stock rear with 4.88s for a long time and only broke when he did something really crazy.

 

If you do something like this it will make the rear feel way better then stock. plus you can have fun with it in the dirt and it less $$ then doing a spring under kit if you don't have the money for it.

just better ride quality all around then stock

 

Does anyone have any good pictures/advice for 3/4 linking an access cab with rear frame intact. Not ready to back half yet. I would like to keep the fuel tank where it is, but I think moving it may be the only option. What length links? mounting locations? custom mounts or bought it from somewhere? Ive been looking at Ruffstuff arms (only come in 48"), Ruffstuff or Ballistic fabrication mounts, trail gear axle truss and custom icon coilovers/bypasses. I think I can fit outside the frame rails because I have 2" wheel spacers and -44 offset. If I use 48" lower links, should my uppers be that long? I was told they should be 70% of the lower length but I am not sure

Any input/advice is appreciated, especially pictures

 

@dirt designs has a kit for three link. Not sure how you are going to four link stay stock frame and gas tank since they will be in the way

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qF67JplMDE

 

I think I’ve got enough clearance on the outside to go outside the frame 0 degrees and still get inside the fire.

 

Not following you. dirt designs kit requires 2” spacers just to clear the coil overs and the lower links are already outside the frame. Upperlinks cant go outside the frame or you won’t get geometry correct to center the axle from my understanding.

 

I was talking about lower links outside the frame. This is technically 3 links, but I was thinking about building something like this to go around the fuel tank. I am not sure what is involved in installing a fuel cell and can't find much information about it

 

Gotcha, yeah that makes sense.