2010 replacing calipers questions

Hello all,
My 2010 is in a nightmare rust situation.

Caliper pins are seized and fused and it's jut time for new calipers. I have many questions but my main question right now is where is the compression for the banjo bolt happening? When I look at the back of the caliper where the line comes in.

I don't see any copper washers and when I went to toyota today for the part they said there is a nut and flange to flange gasket thing the clips around both sides. The part number 47389–50020.
This says it's a gasket for the flexible hose, so is the hard line hose to the clip on the support where this gasket goes and if you are reusing the hard line there is no gasket? very confused..

 

There is no gasket at the hard line going into the caliper. It has a flare fitting for a seal.
As rusty as that thing is you will probably rip up the flare fitting attempting to remove it from the caliper.

Good luck with all that rust. Wow!

 

Soak it first, that will come out.

 

Hey thanks, knowing what to search for "tacoma FLARED brake line" led me to this video which lets me see what's in there...and what will be in the caliper end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Prs_coIuCg

I'll hard nylon brush it up, brake cleaner, PB blaster and pray...

This is a helluva DIY situation in my driveway...and I haven't started the right side yet....
Needed Wheel bearings/hubs, Calipers, Rotors, Pads...Dealer wanted $700 a wheel just for the wheel bearings...I hope I can get it all back together some day..

Sitting around yesterday and I realized I never cleaned the ABS sensor before putting the hub on...hopefully I can get it out and clean it off.

 

Free All Soak it heck out of it and let it sit then come back and soak it again Also Do Not Use a Plain Wrench on it! get a Brake Line wrench or also called Flare Nut wrench as for the Calipers They might look rough but they can be cleaned up just get new pins.

 

Believe me I tried. The pins seem to be fused and I already had a Right OEM caliper and just needed a left and I think I have the usual seized right inner judging by the uneven wear on the pads.



I dremmeled out the middle, worked a hammer, punch...cotter pin broke off in the top one and wouldn't pull out, caliper pins starting bending...They must have used something that fused the pin to the caliper and now my guess would be cut off the ends and drill it out... After 2+ hours of futile messing around I called it....Bought an new caliper for $85

 

PB Blaster soak...soak more, cut the pin in the middle...heat. those pins commonly rust and are a bitch.

 

I have to return one for the remand...I am going to put this SH%T show in the box and let them enjoy it.

My new pins will be coated in Super Lube

$19 Super Lube 97008 Silicone Lubricating Brake Grease with PTFE, 8 oz Tube, Translucent White

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081JEBFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Pins a very common problem is the cheap one swell up and when trying to drive em out you have 3 things working against you the swelled Pins and the two Brake pads acting like a wedge, I I always install new pins, cotters and spring I just cut them up (the pins) right next to the calipers both sides in the middle then pull the pads then with good pin punch drive out the little remaining parts.

Then this part I do Every time also when I reassemble I put a very little copper neversez in the caliper holes when the pins go.

Oh want to keep yourself out of that kind of mess? Do clean and treat every 8 month basically a quick take down and clean and replaces those darn pins if they are rusting

 

Just a couple tips to help:

1. Use a pin-punch set and 3 pound hammer to tap out the pins while the caliper is still mounted. Make sure the front end is raised so that the steering wheel can be turned to allow hammer clearance access. Don’t use a regular nail hammer. They will come right out using pin punches and a 3 pound hammer. (That is of course after soaking the pins with a penetrant.)

2. From experience, purchase a cheap $10 pad-spreader tool from eBay or Amazon for pressing the pistons back. Don’t use a screw driver to pry the pads back into the pistons- this promotes seized pistons. I didn’t use the tool and one of my pistons eventually became seized...and now I need to replace the caliper.

3. The brake line fitting can be disconnected and bent slightly away from the caliper. This prevents needing to remove (and potentially breaking the bolt) from the flex hose mount. The bolt should be soaked with Aerokroil or 50/50 befor attempting to remove.

 

The Napa eclipse calipers have a nice coat of black paint on them and a hella good warranty.

 

It is my understanding that the pins should not be lubed. They should stay un-lubed so they are free to move when needed or allow the pads to slide back and forth. If you lube the pins that are exposed to the elements it will accumulate all kinds of road debris and grime. This is not an item that is lubed at the factory.

 

since you're replacing things...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...unner-bbk-upgrade-for-2nd-gen-tacomas.504234/

 

Never had an issue on any of my trucks from before including this one.

 

I lube the pins per instructions.
I once read on this forum that a member from way north of here disassembles the brakes and cleans and lubes twice a year. Having lived in Florida most of my life I didn’t quite understand. With those pics I do now.

 

Yikes....glad I don’t live in a salt state

 

Try using an air hammer if you have access to one and use a large bit and just shake the pin up till it comes out. I had to punch out my lower pin laying on my back on the garage floor and was not happy, never thought to use my air hammer till AFTER i was done....

 

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0420011.pdf

I don't see where it says to lube the pins. Am I missing something. Just sayin...I by no means am criticizing anyone's techniques or preferences.

 

Just bumping this up again. I got the flared steel line off the old caliper and when I screwed it into the new one it had some play and was leaking. It got me thinking that something was missing. I remembered there was a little brass thing in the box. I assume this is supposed to go on end of the flared line to help seal in the caliper when it's screwed in?

Questions...1. This goes on the end of the line or in the threaded receptacle of the caliper right? 2. How does it go on, do I slide the thin end into the open end of the steel line and then slip it in or does it go round end into the flare and thin end towards the caliper?
This is the after market caliper
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and...-reman-brake-caliper-front/198799_761937_5913

3. I have to do the right side caliper replacement as well. That is an OEM tacoma caliper and I don't have another one of these brass fitting things. Will the OEM not need this or do I need to buy one and what is the part #?

Thanks All...

 

Follow up on this...

So this piece actually just fell out of the new caliper, it's a loose piece that slides into the female threads for the stainless steel line for the caliper...I looked at the other new caliper I have and it's already in there.