Transfer case swap questions (probably been asked before)

What are the benefits of the fj cruiser transfer gear box over the taco boxes?

I’ve seen Marlin’s stuff for the 3rd gens. I had dual cases on my 85 runner and am considering this setup for my taco before even doing ring and pinion gears. But this damned electronically controlled transfer case is so frustrating - I just want a lever!

Can anyone learn me on this shiz?

 

Swapping an fj cruiser case is possible. I think you want one from an automatic transmission and you're going to have to open it up to swap the input gears from what I remember. The taco box should be a bolt on I think.

Edit: you're going to have to figure out electronics though since the rear locker and front add won't work unless the 4wd module sees that the truck is in 4wd/4lo.

 

It's not so much the box it's all about the ADD.

 

Ok - but why is the swap advantageous beyond having a manual shift lever?

 

Br

Cause you can't just put a manual shifter into out tcase. There isn't a spot for one to be installed. All the manual cases I believe are a top shift, ours had an actuator in the rear of the case.

 

So there’s nothing beyond that? Ie lower gearing? Gear drive vs chain? Etc?

 

None of those have anything to do with the electrical shifter. Chain drive we're used in the older trucks and 4runners, lower gearing may be available from Marlin crawler @BigMike . But to get rid of the electrical shifter the easiest is an FJ case. It's mostly bolt on.

 

Ok. I’m obviously not being clear with my questions.

I’m aware that the shifting apparatus has nothing to do with weather it’s a chain or gear driven case.

My only question at this point is the following:

BEYOND having a manual shift lever, are there any OTHER reasons to do this swap?

Edit: how about this:

Is the gearing of the fj case lower than the taco?

Is the fj case chain drive or gear driven?

 

Reliability, no worries about the electronics failing on the trail (rare issue). For me the biggest win in this is not having to wait or hassle with the electronic shifter. It is finnicky sometimes and slow. I want to be able to quickly shift into 4wd or 4lo. With a manual shifter you can shift in/out of 4lo on the fly when driving slow.

I have a thread on this somewhere (search FJ cruiser t-case swap) and there's some details there on how to do it. I just haven't had time to get it done nor have I figured out the electronic diff lock part yet.

 

Look at this thread. Lots of info. It's a second gen thread but bolting it up is the same. Just figure out the rear diff lock and the front ADD and you're set.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-2

 

From working on 2wheel low mod and rear lock anytime on the 3rd gen, I will guarantee the electrical side of this swap will not be easy... best suggestion is to forget about using the ECU at all for the rear locker and front ADD, and wire up your own new control systems and feedback lights for each... its doable I assume, it's just not going to be 'easy'

 

I wonder about a nice double cable setup (four cables total) for the T case and ADD? It could be heavy duty like clutch cables. I would imagine a locking bracket and a couple levers in a good spot? It wouldn't be as nice as a direct shift, but. . .

Or, the ADD could be permanently locked with the use of @05Taco4x4 's manual hubs?

 

Ok. I’ll just throw this highly uninformed question out there:

Why not just retain the factory dial selector AND have the j shift t case? It’s not perfect, but wouldn’t that make all the electronics easier? Couldn’t the actuator contacts be wired to the manual shifter to make the ecu detect the same signal as it gets from electrical activation? Just roll the selector to whatever corresponding mode / gear is desired, then manually shift. All of a two second action.

Does that make sense?

Sorry if this is totally uninformed, as I suspect it may well be! I also realize this does nothing for the rear locker (I think?).

 

A custom front ADD replacement boss with a teleflex type cable would probably be good. Of course those aren't exactly 100% reliable in muddy underbody usage eother, but they normally fail by jamming and usually with ample warning by increasing fricition.

I dont know, in the end I am not really sure you would have a more reliable system, truth be known, depending on what you do. (Not including a front locking hub mod and ADD disable).

 

I wonder... Maybe there is a solution using the 4wd computer from a new 4runner with the manual t-case? They have a manual t-case and still a rear locker with the same crawl features... Right? It may even be a plug and play option?

I would love to rip out the factory computer and wire in my own stuff but from following the rear locker mod thread, there needs to be a stepdown in the voltage and I'm not savvy enough with electronics to do that.

 

Just using the selector as-is is a 2 second operation anyway, right? (Without about 100 man hours to figure this all out).

Not trying to put you off doing the mod, it goes back more to your original question, what do you gain, what do you lose...

ECU seems to check motor resistance and current, as well as feedback position with expected changes. It is doable I think, but a lot harder than you think with the ECU checks that go on. 'Easiest' to avoid computer fail-safe modes would be to just mount the original 3rd gen actuator someplace unbolted from the case, maybe submerged in oil, and let it do its thing...

 

I wonder why Toyotas is so finicky. Shift-on-the-fly has been around for decades without issue. My ford shift on the fly was click and in, no waiting. Just worked. It just used a transfer case motor.

 

Very true. I have a lot of confidence in the stock system. It is just the delay and awkwardness of the operations that annoy me.

It is funny that I even want this, but given the delays, I think a tone might be nice to confirm when it engages / disengages 4Hi since I am usual looking out the windshield for what coming at me, not the flashing light on the the tach. That is half of my issue with the system since the engage / disengage time varies so much.

4Lo is a non issue since we have to be stopped or barely moving.

 

It’s chain driven. One reason I chose it was I kept reading it’s the strongest t-case Toyota has made.

This sounds completely possible

 

Yes, the turning of the dial is two-second, when it actually engages, but we know that is rare. Point being the j shift is instant, so keep the dial to “trick” the ecu, then shift and get the thing into gear without fooling around with it.

Oh this is way over my head! I’m just here to spew.

This is what I’m thinking.