What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

Hello all, I need some advice again please.

I am scheduled for a 3/1 procomp lift tomorrow on my new 18 4x4 Sport. I was debating on doing the 3/1 vs. the popular bilstein 5100s/ 888 coils that everyone seems to be talking about.

According to the shop sales man, they have to slightly drop the differential with the 3/1 lift which I'm not to sure about. Will this really mess around with the stock suspension? However, I know the the gentleman from the suspension shop and he is fairly honest and told me that I was better off with the 3/1 lift as that wouldn't void the manufacturer warranty where the shock replacement would. Does this sound correct?

Not looking to do any offroading or anything but being done mostly for looks. My 16 had a inch spacer in the front and gave me pretty much what I was looking for then. Now, I was looking for a slightly larger lift. Should I go forward with the 3/1 or is the bilstein a better option? I'm really going crazy here!

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Warranty being voided is subjective depending on who is looking at it since shocks alone wouldn’t void any parts. Doing a lift in general and it changing the geometry can give Toyota a reason to void if something went wrong with your drivetrain. With that said you can always get a diff drop bracket that’ll work with any lift. The Procomp “leveling” kit is pretty much a large spacer and it’ll be a bit harsh to be honest. You’re better off doing Bilsteins and new coils. May cost a little more but it’ll ride nicer. Again, getting a Bilstein lift vs a spacer lift changes nothing about how warranty is affected since both are not factory specs. I think the guy at the shop probably meant that you’ll be better off getting your chances reduced for voided warranty if you did a diff drop which would put the angles close back to stock and that can be done on either lift.

Anyone else with thoughts on this??

 

Just keep in mind the responses you get. For example if someone on here claims to have a 3 inch lift with a 2016 and newer Tacoma you should ask if they are comparing it to a second gen. If they are then it most likely is only a 2 inch lift up front. Also if someone with a 2nd gen Tacoma gives you lift specs that they for example got a 2.5 inch lift up front that that means you will only get a 1.5 inch lift up front. It is extremely confusing as 90% do not state this. Be sure to ask.

 

The idea people give lift heights on a 3rd gen compared to a second gen is silly, however, I've seen it like you. No, after settling, it still is slightly above 3" from hub to fender from stock 3rd gen height. However, this is on the driver side with a 1/4 top-plate for taco lean.

 

Here is a thought? by going with a wider wheel say a 17x9" from your stock 17x7.5" you could actually spread that width out with a 285 and prolly get away with the same or close width as a 295/305. don't know the actual width you'll gain but it does give you a rounder profile which gives the illusion of a wider tire width, I've done this over the years to a few of my builds most noted 89' Jeep Cherokee with 12" wide wheels and Mickey Thompsen 31x13.50 tires talk about stance, this bad-boy floated over everything. Considering I built it mainly for surfing and beach wheeling & camping.

 

DansSr5 Good point being that 3rd. Gen is an inch higher. I will be going with Bilstein 6112/5160 set-up which claims 2" of adjustable lift in front at Circlip #5-#6 and 1.5" at Circlip #4-#5 (6112) but the tricky thing is the 5160 states 0-1" lift for the rear and I'm trying to keep the Stock OEM rake at 1" over the front, so that equates to 3" AAL or block if set at #5-#6 (2" lift) and 2" AAL or block if set at #4-#5 (1.5" lift)??? Yes it does get confusing, Please chime in for the Gents that are familiar with the Bilstein 6112/5160 set-up. Peace

 

VMVIWI, post: 18832993, member: 96351 DansSr5 Good point being that 3rd. Gen is an inch higher. I will be going with Bilstein 6112/5160 set-up which claims 2" of adjustable lift in front at Circlip #5-#6 and 1.5" at Circlip #4-#5 (6112) but the tricky thing is the 5160 states 0-1" lift for the rear and I'm trying to keep the Stock OEM rake at 1" over the front, so that equates to 3" AAL or block if set at #5-#6 (2" lift) and 2" AAL or block if set at #4-#5 (1.5" lift)??? Yes it does get confusing, Please chime in for the Gents that are familiar with the Bilstein 6112/5160 set-up. Peace

Wish the Coachbuilder Tacoma Shackles were available. Mr. Ekstrom is an awesome guy to deal with, just spoke to him the other day (answered on the first ring) he mentioned soon it will be available, that would solve all this AAL, Block, Spring-pack problems we have, and ease of installation!

 

https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyo...1-rear-5160-lift-kit-2016-2017-toyota-tacoma/

This site shows 1.5 for the rear

 

FYI keeping stock rake at 1"

Stock rake is actually about 1.5"

I lifted my truck 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear. Measurements are exactly 1" rake higher in the rear. (I'm running 265/75/16 and my truck would look goofy going any higher with that tire size.) Going 2" in the front and 1.5" in the rear will still get you that 1"

I did not want to chance having to buy control arms as some who went 2" in the front have weird wandering issues or the needle bearing noise issue.

I'm happy to report i have non of those issues. Smart to have a little bit of rake. If i park on a slight incline my truck looks like it has major bro-lean....would probably be worse if perfectly level.

You might want to go with a top plate lean spacer so that you will get full and equal compression on both front struts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/18084754/

Here are some before and after pics.

 

I have an sr5

For me I found it easier to just measure from the ground (flat surface) to the bottom of the fender. That’s how I got my measurements.

They were consistent stock, after new tires, and after lift.

I measured with the parking brake off. You don’t know if a 400lb guy drove it last and used the parking brake before he got out . It can skew the results. And in my experience if I put the parking brake on and then step out of the vehicle it gives a false Tacoma lean.

This false lean if you measure only on the drivers side will look like it only has 1” of rake stock.

I have zero lean from the factory.

Hope this helps.

Take new measurements when you get it home.

Take the measurements you took before and also from the ground (do both). then figure out what you are going to do next.

 

This thread is great but it's so long at this point. It would be nice to have the options and things to consider for a 1" lift, a 2" lift, 3", 4", 5", and 6"

 

Thank you for this guide

 

Me thinks they spend a lot of time measuring alternative “fact”ors. For the Funyun of it!

 

im not sure if its in here but i have an 18 TRD OR. I didnt measure my stock height hub to fender. What is the factory measurement in that area?

 

Front: 21”
Rear: 22”

 

thanks

 

First off, that’s overpriced. Check out Headstrongoffroad or lowrangeoffroad. They are significantly cheaper. I paid $1200 for the entire OME kit from Lowrange when I did it.

Now for the advice part:

Having done the OME whole medium kit the only thing I liked was the leaf pack. The shocks are stiff and jarring as hell because they are designed for heavy ass overlanders and not daily driving/trail riding. I also got new UCAs (SPC) and wore out the ball joints in under a year from how stiff the shocks were.

If I were to do it again I would do the Bilstein 8112’s, 6100/5160’s, or stay stock.

However, since I was dumb and didnt save a lot for the first lift and just went with OME. After really being pissed and putting up with shattered teeth. I ended up getting a second setup (ADS) and spent a hell of a lot more. Rule of thumb: buy once cry once.

Stick with the Bilstein they are tried and true for what you are doing. You won’t like the OME compared to the Billies. The Bilstein will be much more comfortable

If you want to spend over $2k on shocks down the road (only if you are really going to use them) go with something that will take a beating and that you can repair/get serviced if you are capable of doing maintenance and install/uninstall yourself. If not be willing to dish out $300 every time your shocks need servicing and waiting 5-8 days until they come back in the mail.



Can you tell which one is the OME shock?


I should have just kept my stock stuff on until it wore out then dropped $$$ once. Learn from my mistakes

 

I went with the OME medium package and also find the leafs great but the ride stiff as hell. The only weight I have added to the front end of the cab are my rock sliders. When I have the cab loaded with gear I sit at almost stock height. The driver side also sagged so much that I’m sitting at 1” of lift with the truck unloaded. Wish I just went with Kings or comparable suspension from the get go.