Let's see your FJ case swap

On the trail I would agree that's the best way to do it however that's not how the design works from the factory. For trail riding, lock the ADD just like locking a set of manual hubs. Then shift the t-case in and out of 4wd as needed (you would be going relatively slow speeds)

The design of the stock 4wd electronic shifting system though is that the t-case engages first, which spins the front driveshaft as well as the front R&P. Then once the transfer case is in high gear that sends a signal to the 4wd ECU to engage the ADD. The ADD has clutch sleeve and hub and can synchronize the passenger side stub shaft and axle shaft together. I believe if you look in the owners manual you will see that the 4wd ECU limits shifting on the fly to below 50 mph.

TLDR; shift the transfer case first is the factory setup. When shifting t-case, let off the gas it will engage much smoother.

 

Good to know, thanks for the explanation. I’ll be trying that out

 

And you didn't get the clunk at speed?

 

n

I only got the clunk engaging the ADD in 2wd while moving and then shifting to 4wd, if I had the TC in 4wd and then engaged the ADD it worked smoothly every time (never did that going over 20 mph and made sure I was driving in a straight line). Shifting in and out of 4wd once the ADD was engaged, speed did not seem to matter it was always smooth with no clunks or grinds and I did it regularly on my commute at 55 mph on slick roads. Once winter set in I would leave my ADD engaged for months at a time, @username had his ADD engaged all the time as he had no switch on his truck with 37's and did not seem to have issues so I used the same approach.

 

Great to know. Thanks man. Sounds like that'll be my plan for mountain drivers this winter

 

Still beating a dead horse here, but just so I'm clear, what year and model was the donor 4Runner you got the transfer case from @Jcapen? I've got an A/T (first auto I've ever owned) 2014 DCLB 4x4 and wouldn't need to swap worm/output/speedo gear if I find a donor TC from a 2012+ 4Runner right?

 

If you have an auto, no swapping of the speedometer gear is necessary. None of the autos ever used that output. Here's a simple check, go walk under your truck and see if you have a plug where the arrow is or if there is a blank off plate.

 

You got it! Here's mine:



I just don't know about that ugly ass actuator on the back. Can't wait to get rid of it!

 

@DesertRatliff, I have a 2014 manual and the case I got was from a 5th gen 4runner, not sure of the year or model, sorry. Looks like you have no speedo plug so any 5th gen 4runner case should be good, because SMKYTXN said none of them have the worm gear which you dont need.

6 gearT444E, Im guessing that is a Marlin case. Have you had an issues with gear oil coming up out of the shifter?

 

I will speak for him: no leak near the shifter just some sleeping on the bottom of the crow box. I have a similar situation

 

thanks

 

VVVVV This. I have one of the original marlin crawlboxes and also marlin twin sticks on the FJ case. Back when things were made with care and quality not quantity, the shifters haven't leaked a drop. I used the OEM toyota paper gaskets on top and they've been leak free for nearly 6 years.

 

Im glad that you have had good success. Will just have hopes that they can make a good case adapter again someday and I can actually manage to get my hands on one. I aspire to have my center console look like that.

 

Anyone ever consider pairing the FJ case with the manual hub conversion available here?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-hubs-conversion-kit-990.511528/

Seems to me to be the ultimate in foolproof 4wd engagement. Lock hubs and you can shift between 2hi and 4hi at anytime. To eliminate the ADD, someone on the forum swapped in an FJ axle and tube. @HolyHandGrenade made reference to it, but I can’t find the thread. In this case the 4wd ECU would not even be necessary, right?

I like the idea of no electronics in the 4wd engagement. One time when I first got my truck (2014) I was slowly driving down a snowy dirt road in 2hi and suddenly it got very slick and I lost traction. I was spinning tire in forward and reverse. When I turned the switch to 4hi, the dash light just blinked and I had no 4wd. I had to shift back and forth from 1st to reverse several times to get the truck rocking slightly before it would shift into 4hi. I’ve been doubting the electronic engagement method ever since.

Also a few times out on some trails I’ve been ascending a hill when I ran out of steam in first gear (4 cylinder problems...). I needed 4lo not really for traction but for the torque. Again I turn the 4wd switch and the dash light just blinks. I had to back down the hill a bit and try again, which did work but it’s not ideal.

I’m strongly considering the FJ case/manual hub conversion to gain a more reliable 4wd shifting method.

 

The FJ axle tube eliminates the ADD and thus eliminates the need for the 4x4 ECU. My 4x4 ECU is removed as a matter of fact. No electronics. You shift and it’s in.

As long as you do the ECGS bushing, FJ case, and FJ axle tube, you’re simply running the same setup as a manual FJ. No reason to do manual hubs.

I called ECGS twice before doing the FJ tube swap. Two seperate tech guys told me the above. One went as far as to say “put it in and forget about it”.

I’ve put like 20k on this setup. Did 5,000 miles to Moab and back. Going again in three weeks as a matter of fact.

Here’s the thread on the axle tube. OP is banned for drunken confrontations... He’s the pioneer of the FJ tube though.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

Cool man, thanks!

I see your point about the hubs not being necessary. With ADD removed it’s like having hubs always locked. The main reason to disconnect your hubs would be to save some wear on CV boots if you do mostly pavement driving. There could possibly be a mpg benefit but it’s probably minimal at best. A bit of extra driveline drag may affect my 4 cylinders a bit more than a V6 though, not sure on that one...

If you don’t mind my asking, what write up did you reference for the FJ swap. I need to confirm all the input shaft splines and all that stuff.

Thanks again!

 

I ordered my T-case built and converted (twin sticks) from RST, so I didn’t need a write up. I just told them what I had, and they sent me what I needed.

The RST site used to have a forum with tons of info, but last I checked, the forum was no longer there. I’m not sure where to send you for that info other than this thread.

Maybe just call RST?

 

And I run high angle inner CV boots. Wear shouldn’t be a problem.

 

Check my swap page I'll pm you a link. Manual hubs are over rate for strength vs cost. Example. Carry a spare 20 cv axle shafts for $50 each instead of paying 1000 for hubs. You can swap a cv in 10 mins on the trail

 

I bought that kit but don’t plan to use it, I’m just going add delete