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How to: Deleting ADD system

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by PSU Taco85, Apr 14, 2016.

  1. Apr 14, 2016 at 7:19 PM
    #1
    PSU Taco85

    PSU Taco85 [OP] Señor Member

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    It seems the next weakest point in these trucks (once the transfer case is swapped out with a manual t-case of course) is the ADD actuator. If this malfunctions, you are basically stuck in 2wd unless you pull the actuator on the trail and slide the fork over manually. This requires draining the front diff partially so it gets messy. Since there are no options for manual hubs at the time, I was trying to come up with a solution for a more reliable front drive train. While I'd love to have a SFA and do away with all this silly IFS nonsense that won't be for some time down the road, so in the meantime I want a reliable IFS system. The actuators that Toyota use are over complicated and super expensive, and their reliability is terrible.

    So I thought to myself, the 6spd FJ cruisers come with a full time t-case with a center differential which means they are no good for the t-case swap, however the front axle tube for the AWD FJ cruisers does not have an ADD actuator since the front diff is constantly spinning for the AWD goodness they have. Since the FJ cruiser shares a majority of the front end suspension components with the Tacoma, my thought was that the axle tube and stub shaft on the 6 speed FJ cruisers could be bolted on in place of the axle tube and ADD actuator.

    I searched and didn't find any results online for anyone who had done this so I took it upon myself to give it a shot. Just got finished today and took it for a spin and everything is working as it should. The front driveshaft now spins all the time, but to me the reliability and simplicity of the straight differential tube and getting rid of the failure prone actuator was worth the slight decrease I may get in MPGs.


    Here's a list of the parts I used:


    4x – 9010712003 ADD TUBE bolts to diff $1.00 each

    1x – 9031147013 passenger side diff tube seal $13.82

    2x – 9010514171 diff tube mount bolts $3.04 (ended up reusing the tacoma ones)

    1x – 4132135050 diff tube hosing from manual FJ cruiser $110

    1x – 4133735050 diff tube intermediate shaft $161

    1x- 9036343001 diff tube bearing $17

    1x – 9052041014 snap ring inner $3

    1x – 9052075002 snap ring outer $5


    Total cost of $320 which is still less than the cost of a new actuator from Toyota.


    The bearing and snap ring you don't need but I chose to buy them so I didn't get halfway through the project and realize I needed them or figure out that mine were shot; plus they weren't that expensive.


    The parts


    1b8cb346-2afd-4787-8efd-bde43e8d9d6a_zps_4ce6a3b4778da8c12b854597ef4e306597d734be.jpg


    C272C3A1-31C4-44C2-9525-3B0EB9162B94_zps_a49162a622f9c1d8aa75ade4f7e946ee2a6b6702.jpg



    I also used a 2" ABS coupling for the seal driver that toyota says requires a "SST". And I used the old bearing and the 35mm axle nut to press on the new bearing.


    My old tacoma diff tube had seen better days. Got stuck and took a bad line then made the wrong choice to lock the front with the passenger tire wedged between a rock and this was the result :eek:

    2427325B-CBB6-4224-9C06-5F3EDFA4F842_zps_dad6a88b32d8f15ab0a43ea42eb56afbf2a9a499.jpg

    Since I was going to need an entire new differential tube anyway I figured now was the time to try the FJ cruiser swap

    I used the FSM for all the torque specs. Start off by draining the diff oil and removing the passenger side CV.

    Disconnect the two front differential mounts and let the front diff hang down.

    Then remove the 4 torx bolts that hold the differential tube to the front clamshell, a female 14mm torx bit is required

    B561BFE1-639A-4063-BF67-3A4DA38EB736_zps_01f7ce49f5e838b584a37c07b8ccab94abffaec3.jpg


    Once that's out you will see the ADD stub shaft that sits in the differential, you can remove that as you won't be needing it any more

    DBFDD70A-7E61-4120-BC8C-37E4E8763822_zps_84142743d6afdb9de070c8d52fa73fe1bb07a1c2.jpg


    Use a screwdriver and/or a pry bar and it will pop out, it's held in the side gear with a snap ring

    DBB8E7CD-185B-4566-8339-95CEE4548079_zps_927a93216f911f835e3fa55a09dbc0ca8c6dc386.jpg


    5C5387FF-363B-4610-81AB-9EB54D63BB16_zps_cd68f336f723d609fbe00b5480d64b6d9f11d612.jpg


    The tacoma and the FJ cruiser diff tube side by side

    81A50FD0-8DE3-4D3D-B242-A86BD9D2F4A4_zps_3f20ab7a2812724f60c888fe39e6e1a64174a6a1.jpg


    You need the new mounting bolts which are shorter due to the fact that the FJ diff tube has a thinner mounting flange because there is no ADD actuator to connect to it.

    63850947-89E8-477F-B76A-20547F1A13DB_zps_4f16ff0a2da22b3571531cda113442b06d915616.jpg


    Once you remove the seal and the outer snap ring on the tacoma diff tube, the whole diff tube shaft slides out with the bearing on the end


    6907C20B-E211-4CD3-BC1A-B5412C3E0430_zps_77e9944ea7d3dfc53e749d7ef94328ec78779a7b.jpg


    Press off the bearing using a bearing splitter.

    ACB70770-9FA0-4EC1-9F0D-42B8C313B23A_zps_afdf594c39f0777dfb42addfbe38240e55c9ae09.jpg


    Lubricate the race on the inside of the bearing to be installed into the new FJ axle shaft. You can reuse your old bearing if it's good but mine got trashed when I snapped the axle so I purchased a new one

    4D3C0593-5CA4-4BA8-B6A0-7411DBB27F08_zps_d4d1181306d917c67e6c33cd53a2fef3f50b6465.jpg



    Press on the new bearing. Toyota mentions an SST in the FSM but I simply used the old bearing and the 35 mm axle socket, it fit perfect on the inner race.

    62FE0489-905E-4092-8B02-946C81F3A931_zps_e048000b440cea60e93260c6f983ea474d27197f.jpg


    Install the snap rings and your new diff tube is almost ready to bolt onto the truck.

    10302CF0-08E9-4E06-9F93-35F3A1D59B6B_zps_e58da504fca3d885e9179917932efd949fa95dd5.jpg


    Install the new seal

    F9CA1E4B-25F5-4D65-A14F-9D49F41C761E_zps_5f6fb0e51965f90d9f7798edbd78119f3624c87c.jpg


    I used a 2" ABS coupler I had lying around to drive the seal in, worked like a charm

    219C397C-0061-4D6E-A4A5-86152614A164_zps_44dcfa238b1cc2fd83b6f14f68250810862b13dc.jpg


    Careful not to drive it too far, FSM specifies a depth of 0.189 to 0.229 in. from the lip of the differential tube, mine ended up at .228". These seals are notorious for leaking if you don't set the depth properly

    9EA9F3AC-FB34-4E49-8A10-8358B11B9B9E_zps_a5d57944f6ed08ce855617c8d57c82aaca132bef.jpg


    Clean the mating surface of the clamshell with a razor/steel wool and use some brake parts cleaner. Don't want to have a leak here as it's a pain to access once everything is bolted up.

    5B6BC73A-C287-44ED-8808-CA690A4F5359_zps_d022828c7c5f28715f1c03f74cf506b5593b3187.jpg


    I like to use "the right stuff", I've had good luck with no leaks. Sometimes when using the ultra grey I still seem to get leaks so I now only use the black "right stuff"

    F1D9A5F4-1B24-4E52-8529-5824D3CA2BE4_zps_91821e86f450aa0ec2662fc5525c71ba23c0c455.jpg


    Make a nice bead all around the mating surface, don't overdo it as you don't want it to seep into the differential area where the oil is.

    D2E59036-7844-463B-A51F-8687FFFD7C73_zps_b8838fef5447d1b8cad9033d5e4e85e542e4ee0f.jpg


    Bolt up the new differential tube to the clamshell and torque the bolts to 81 ft-lbs

    9C528ACC-1719-423F-8F2F-B87ED33C916E_zps_dc27e14e0f588cac4feeb41f6d94d2552d4bbbf4.jpg



    Reconnect the differential mounts, torque to FSM specs. The bolts on the diff tube get torqued to 118 ft-lbs. the ones on the frame get 101 ft-lbs. The tacoma differential mount bolts work for the new FJ cruiser differential tube, although the parts diagram listed these as separate part numbers.

    304277B8-BE19-4259-A06D-F2810C5E05DE_zps_33295f49149bfd2df1a2419c2ca2adf1e4dbf26c.jpg


    Reinstall the CV shaft and torque the axle nut to 173 ft-lbs

    92FADEA1-DEBD-424C-A7DA-7F0DC4EF5F08_zps_fc44803065ec74e8e0af76215336d4a922a30488.jpg


    DF42B163-610F-4CCB-91DF-8237A71806F4_zps_8bcd4f1c16ad26806701f099062b7f87b701722b.jpg


    Top off the differential with your favorite choice of gear oil. I'm a fan of lucas 85W-140, as recommended by chase at ECGS
     
  2. Apr 14, 2016 at 7:26 PM
    #2
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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  3. Apr 14, 2016 at 8:44 PM
    #3
    Just Dandee

    Just Dandee Well-Known Member

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    Nice job coming up with that solution!
     
  4. Apr 15, 2016 at 4:30 AM
    #4
    BulletToothTony

    BulletToothTony TTC #0001 Im only a dick 90% of the time

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  5. Apr 15, 2016 at 4:48 AM
    #5
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    Yup. Definitely keeping this one in the back of my head for future use. I do have other plans for the front end, but this is a good intermediate step. :D
     
  6. Apr 15, 2016 at 4:57 PM
    #6
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    Would you have done this if you hadn't broken the tacoma tube? Or is leaving the front ADD shifted into 4wd all the time the same thing with just more parts?
     
  7. Apr 15, 2016 at 5:25 PM
    #7
    HBMurphy

    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    You are a good man. Keep a space for me in the pole barn.
     
    PSU Taco85 [OP] likes this.
  8. Apr 15, 2016 at 6:11 PM
    #8
    smd3

    smd3 Well-Known Member

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    What about the electronics? How does the computer deal with this change? No flashing lights or beeping?
     
  9. Apr 15, 2016 at 6:47 PM
    #9
    PSU Taco85

    PSU Taco85 [OP] Señor Member

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    Thanks man.

    I had thought about it years ago but never had a reason to go out and spend $300. I had one actuator fail right after I had the truck and since I had to spend the money again I wasn't going to put that electronic junk back in.

    For sure! :thumbsup::cheers:

    No, I connected the 4wd and 4lo limit switches directly to the lights on the dash cluster.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2016
  10. Apr 17, 2016 at 12:25 PM
    #10
    V5ioV

    V5ioV My drinking team has a wheeling problem

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    Awesome write up
     
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  11. Apr 22, 2017 at 7:48 PM
    #11
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    Could I seal the space where the ADD is with a gasket and aluminum plate and reuse my current tube, bearing, bolts and snap rings- just replace the shaft?
     
  12. Apr 22, 2017 at 9:42 PM
    #12
    strattonje

    strattonje Well-Known Member

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    probably could.. but to save alittle over 100 bucks your willing to possibly contaminate and ruin your ring gear and possibly arb if you have one? id save longer and do it right. just my 2 cents.
     
  13. Apr 24, 2017 at 4:46 PM
    #13
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    Respectfully, I don't see swapping the ADD with a solid 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as taking on any more risk than having ADD. Same gasket material.
    If anything, I see less risk of contamination due to less barrier to entry- no hose and no plastic.
    The gasket is a point of failure, but it's mighty small. For cutting the price of the mod in half, definitely worth considering.
     
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  14. Apr 24, 2017 at 5:49 PM
    #14
    strattonje

    strattonje Well-Known Member

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    then do it
     
  15. Apr 26, 2017 at 8:12 AM
    #15
    HBMurphy

    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    Yes, you can just cover it with a plate. I have seen a good number of trucks with that.
     
  16. Apr 26, 2017 at 11:25 AM
    #16
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    so now your front center driveshaft is spinning all the time. Any worries about wear on the front output because its not "in gear" in 2hi?
     
  17. Apr 26, 2017 at 11:34 AM
    #17
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    Op is banned so I doubt you'll get a response. But manual hub tacos like mine have been doing this for ages, it'll be fine.
     
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  18. Apr 26, 2017 at 11:35 AM
    #18
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    Now is also a good time to inspect the wear and damage on the stub shaft. The same needle bearing found on the left side that so many have had issues is also on the right. Maybe at least replace it with another needle bearing, say the TSB one, or do what I did and put another ECGS bushing on the right.
     
  19. Apr 26, 2017 at 11:37 AM
    #19
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Ocean TRD

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    From what I gather from this mod, this is essentially removing part time 4x4, and making it so you are full time 4x4?
     
  20. Apr 26, 2017 at 11:39 AM
    #20
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    No just removing the front end disconnect that keeps your front driveshaft from turning when you aren't in 4WD. The transfer case will still actuate taking you in and out of 2hi and 4WD hi/lo.
     

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