The Death Trap - Street Build TRD Supercharged 2011 SR5

Have done the Walbro 255lph upgrade kit, yes.

Have not called URD to get the data downloaded yet. Busy summer... also I was having issues with the clutch hydraulics which was keeping me all preoccupied. But I will be calling them shortly for some data logs.

 

A juggernaut of forced induction. Is that based on MAF readings? I'm right at 350hp max according to dyno. Low-end torque was spectacular, pretty much flat at 435ftlbs from 2400 up to 4000 rpm.

 

Did you ever figure out what was going on with your clutch?

 

It was based on some math that I did a few months ago. I want to take a datalog and do some WOT pulls just to see where my MAF readings are at. I do know it's at the very least at 375 flywheel HP based on a code that was set because my MAF glitched on me one day due to the URD intake and threw the check engine light, checked the freeze frame and that's what was indicated.

 

I think so. I'm close to having a working theorem, anyway. I mentioned the master cylinder, that actually didn't quite fix it. I worked with a theory yesterday, my dad came and helped me bleed the system - back in June my friend (who is a real mechanic, not a fake one like me) gave me some low-viscosity Dot 4 fluid, saying it was great, the bee's meow, the rat's ass, all that. So I put it in my clutch, hoping it would make the clutch more responsive. It didn't really, and at that point, I started having the issues. I didn't put that together until two days ago, though - the new fluid was correlated with the problems I was having. Theory being the low-viscosity stuff caused the master to not hold pressure.

Bled it yesterday with normal viscosity Dot 3. Seems a lot better today, although watching the hydro bearing while my dad pushed on the pedal last night, the bearing doesn't move a ton, not the same amount as I remember from when I first installed it. So I'm not sure if there's some kind of interaction between the hydro bearing and the clutch due to some break-in. In any case, it's working right now and I'll be crossing my fingers for a couple of months that it stays that way, before the winter road trips I have planned.

 

Glad that was a relatively easy fix! hope it stays working nicely! definitely sounds like that could have caused the problem..

 

Right. And now I have two good master cylinders... lol. Also, the Haynes manual says you have to remove interior panels and the entire clutch pedal assembly to change the master cylinder, well, I changed it without doing all that. It's awkward but very doable...

 

@rjbiii my after-market radiator has an integrated oil cooler, it's not being used at the moment. Thinking about rigging that up. Did a custom oil cooler job on my car, would probably do something similar.

 

Found some Fleetrunner 6-ribbers online that are 68.5" That should work. Can't buy in stores here, because northern Canada is too isolated apparently. I'll cut one rib off with tin snips.

 

Since you are having a lean condition, it is making wonder if there is a problem with the hose in the tank?

 

Good point. I had that issue way back. One of the hoses was kinked and ended up cracking, leaking pressure back into the tank.

 

I don't believe there is a problem with the hose. I dropped the tank with @Roostfactor about a week ago, and we swapped out the rubber hose that comes with the URD kit with the plastic racetronix hose that is discussed in this thread. The other hoses looked good, and we also swapped out the fuel bowl with a new once since mine had a hole in it from an error during install. Figured we had solved the problem, but still more of the same..

 

Good to know! Im about to try and tackle this job on my 5spd. It's been leaking in the cab for about a month now.

 

Ahh that's right! Forgot about that.

Got anyone around you that you can quickly swap AFR sensors with, for a test run?

 

Would be interested in some pics of this as well. Sounds like a nice little project. Did your truck come with the oil cooler that was part of the factory tow package? Or what are you going to use this one for?

 

You talking about the front o2 sensors? Don't have many folks in my area unfortunately.. may have to track someone down. I might be going to COTA coffee and cars next weekend so maybe someone there could swap with me for a quick test

 

Correct. The front ones.

 

Ill have to see what I can come up with. Would be much better to swap and see if they make a difference than spend 300 bucks on sensors that I don't end up needing..

 

Exactly! I bring that up because I have read of people having to get new sensors and their operational issues being fixed afterwards. Whether UCON or X-1. I had to replace mine when I had the X-1. Hopefully it isn't the case, but a swap makes for an easy diagnosis to rule out.

 

No cooler came stock. I assume you mean for the transmission? This cooler will be for engine oil. Will have to buy a thermostatic sandwich plate and run hoses from it to the cooler and back. I priced out everything a few months ago... was going to run me about $500 which is not TOO bad. The one for the car cost $1200!