What spring rate should I run?

I need some opinions from you fellers. I have a dbl cab, 4x4, v6, with a "artisan crafted" tube bumper (made it myself and not sure the exact wieght) and a winch with synthetic rope. In the process of building rock sliders and a rear bumper with tire swing out. (not that the rear bumper will matter much on the front coils). Also plan on building or buying a budbuilt style 3 piece skid plate and gas tank skid.
The bumper is similar to a beefed up addicted offroad bumper, (see pic) the rock slider a similar to the trail gears but wider, and rear bumper similar to 4x innovations, but with swing out. With a 2 inch spacer lift, I'm still sitting at stock height. Getting ready to buy either bilstein or ome struts and spring but wanna know what spring rate I should get.

 

OME 883 will give you 2.75” with 150-200lbs of weight up front.

 

^ yup my vote 883's, I like the bumper be sure to post the DIY here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-diy-armor.465225/page-22

 

What notch on the strut should I run them on?

 

I would run zero.

 

thanks for the info, i've been thinking of doing the same thing on my truck and was wondering how much lift i could expect.

 

Thanks

 

That's a good looking bumper

 

Thanks. Only took about 12 weekends in the garage.

 

With 5100 shocks, and the 883's, you definitely should only run the "stock height" (bottom) notch. Let the spring do the lifting.

Any higher and that'll exceed 3" of lift. Even if you have a diff drop kit and aftermarket UCAs, that's generally considered too much lift for the stock IFS.

The general consensus is that with more than 3" and you should be running a bracket lift or LT.

 

Thanks. I'm not trying to jack it sky high, just level it out with the allpro leafs I have in the rear and stop rubbing my 33's everytime I compress on side.

 

Have you hammered the pinch weld down on the front fenders yet?

The main thing about going higher than 3" is the suspension and CV axle geometry. more than maybe 2" and you usually need after market UCAs to correct the alignment. The higher ride height alters camber adjustment so longer UCAs are usually needed to get the alignment back in spec. A diff drop kit lowers the front diff to decrease the angle of your CVs, but even with that, when you go more than 3" that still usually causes problems.

2.5"-3" is usually enough to fit most 33's along with maybe trimming/hammering the pinch weld. Sometimes people end up with wheel spacers or a different backspace wheel, but that's usually it.

Those look like pizza cutters. Are those 255/85r16's? Those usually require less trimming etc... to fit.

 

Yes, they are 255/85's. Pinch weld and some trimming has already been done. And diff drop is already installed. Also the wheels have plenty of backspace and I'm trying to avoid wheel spacers. I just feel like its something I'd break. It just hits the wheel well when I've got one of the springs compressed all the way. Can't really trim that. It's just where the stock springs are old and sagging and then the extra weight of the bumper and winch. 2.5" would be an ideal amount of lift in the end. But right now I want it to sit at 3" and all the armor it's getting soon should bring it down to 2.5. I eventually wanna get even more lift and run 35+ but that will have to wait till have have a sas budget. Eventually that will happen but right now the Misses is wanting out of an apartment and into a house so that has to come first. Haha

 

Even with the lift you will likely have to trim for 33s, I've had to trim a ton to fit mine and I have 2.5" of lift. Exact tire size, wheel spacing and alignment all play a role in how much you'll rub but most people have to do some trimming even to fit 33s.

 

I've already trimmed a good bit and hammered the pinch weld. Also have the proper backspace, copied a buddy of mines set up on his tires. It's just hitting the top of the wheel well while the spring is compressed. I've already gone though all that to make sure the tires will fit, and they did without rubbing but the old spring are worn out and now it is just a little. I'd copy his shock and spring combo but he's a extended cab with a 4 banger. I'm a double cab v6 so there is more sprung rate. Just trying to get some I'm out from other double cab v6 guys.

 

I would go with 600lb springs minimum, that's what I'm running with no front bumper just steel skids and it's a bit stiff for me. But depending on how heavy your bumper is you might want to go up to 650lb springs.

yeah I have the wrong backspacing on my wheels I guess, I rub like crazy even after trimming...I rub on the actual cab as well as the frame when fully turned and stuffed, so I'll probably need to get some spacers here pretty soon.

 

I run a 2nd gen with winch, skids and sliders. I run 600 lb springs (TRD Pro suspension), would recommend 650 lb springs.

 

Deffinatly the wrong backspace. When I was running stock wheels I rubbed the frame a little with 265/75/16 tires. What wheels/ backspace are you running. I have procomp 16x8 with 4.25 BS and had no issue with rubbing until the springs started sagging. They will hit the calipers but a quarter inch spacer fixes that issue while keeping me away from larger spacers that I feel could break. Plus they are pretty cheap so I dont feel bad when I scrap them up on rocks.
Also, you sure about 600+lb? General consensus seems to me OME 883 which are 588lb but a little taller than stock first gen springs. Plus I'd like to have a pretty soft ride. The soacer lift I have on it now made it way to stiff for my liking. I want to absorb and much of the trail as possible

 

yeah 883s will probably be perfect for you if you want a softer ride, if you have a lot of weight though you might not get the full advertised 3" of lift out of them since the weight will bring them down some (if it's at or over the 200lbs or so they claim those springs can handle). They of course can handle more weight it just means you won't be lifted quite as high.

I have no idea what my backspacing is, I need to measure it...I have aftermarket wheels the previous owner installed and I'm not sure what they are. They're great wheels as far as handling abuse goes, but the spacing is all wrong. I'm thinking I'll probably need to add wheel spacers to prevent the frame rubbing

 

Just get good ones. I've heard horror stories of them breaking. It'd suck to lose a wheel on the trial. Could be deadly on the highway. If you can get to 4.25" BS, that works great. Tires dont stick out past the fenders so you don't sling dirt, mud, and rocks all over your truck and still give plenty of room to clear the frame and wheel well and fenders (Unless your springs stop springing )