Rotational Squeal on loaded acceleration

This is going to be a story...lol

*EDIT: It may sound at first like I had this issue before taking my truck in...I did not*

So I've had this persistent annoying AF issue since late February. I was nearing 100,000 miles and I wanted to get my transmission flushed. I did a lot of research and there's a crap ton of opinions out there but I ended up wanting a BG transmission flush specifically based upon their protocol and their warranty. I asked around here and was recommended a shop in the DFW area that does the BG fluid services. Googled them...great reviews...family owned...been around a while. Cool.

So I take it there 2 days before a road trip. They do the BG transmission fluid flush/exchange and then they give the truck a once over because they've never seen it before. Doesn't really have any issues because this is my baby and I take care of it. They did say that the carrier bearing had massive amounts of play and would go any day now. The tech said he wouldn't drive 100 miles on it let alone 1,000. I'll admit while I do a lot of my own simple maintenance (oil changes, filters, coolant, breaks, etc.) I do take it to reputable shops for other stuff. I didn't know anything about carrier bearings at the time.

Now they don't do this stuff in house...which is why I trusted their judgment and didn't do research because I didn't really have any time. The place they generally have do it was full and they recommended a different drive shaft shop where I would have to take it myself. I call, get it in, pick it up the next day (day before my trip). I had them do the 3 u-joints and the carrier bearing. Didn't think to specify brands or part numbers. I drive away from the parking lot and I hear a rotational whirring/squeal sound that kind of sounds like it needed lube. Thought maybe it needed to break in or something. Noticed minor vibrations at certain speeds which seemed to go away over time.

Now this noise has sometimes been intermittent and then sometimes more severe. Happens at any speed if you press the gas pedal down a certain amount (not enough - no noise...floor it - no noise usually). After doing fuck tons of research I decide I just wanna get OEM stuff back on there. Find the Spicer Part Numbers. Call up the shop that did my transmission flush and tell them the story. They say they'll take care of it with their drive shaft shop and ensure the Spicer components are put on it. I have them change the oils in the differentials and transfer case while it's there.

Now...I get it back. Noise is still there (albeit not as intense and more intermittent). The driveshaft vibes are completely gone, however. I turn back around and the tech says he'll look at the front driveshaft and make sure nothing is coming from that. I did mention - hey are you sure it's not the transmission? This noise happened IMMEDIATELY after having these 2 things done...so it's one or the other. 45 minutes later he comes back in the waiting room and says the noise is still there but he'll do some research and try to figure it out (this is last Friday so only a couple of days ago).

Fast forward to today. I decide to crawl under the truck and check things out more closely. I discover fluid near the check/overflow bolt by the transmission. Now he never said that he checked the transmission fluid level at all. So here's what's going through my mind - maybe the noise was transmission related and they overfilled or underfilled the transmission originally back in February and he either added or drained fluid but the noise still exists because the damage is permanent?

Another thing I notice is upon closer inspection I see TOYOTA 37235-14011 on the carrier bearing. A quick Google comes up with only Chinese websites selling this carrier bearing. According to forums here, this is no where near the OEM Toyota bearing number for this truck and also isn't what is expected on the SPICER 5002007 bearing.

AND get this - the carrier bearing appears to be installed upside down based upon every photo here???

So I supposedly am supposed to have brand new Spicer u-joints and carrier bearing which I don't think I do have...but I still have the squeal and now I'm wondering if the squeal was a transmission issue all along after the transmission flush service was performed (even though the transmission shifts beautifully).

Any thoughts?

 

You shouldn't have trans fluid coming from the fill. Unscrew the transmission fluid fill plug, stick a finger in there, if your finger touches oil it's waaaaaaaay over filled. I'd have someone PROPERLY check trans fluid level. Backwards carrier would give those symptoms as well. Also at rest, parked, 4 wheels on the ground, does the rubber on the carrier look as though it being pulled to the front or the back? If the driveshaft was installed while on a lift, then set back down, when the suspension settles it will put a bind on the carrier bearing.

 

Transmission fluid wasn't coming from the fill...it was around the check bolt at the bottom (the one you unscrew with the allen wrench). I believe at proper temperature a "slight trickle" is what you're supposed to have coming from there?

I'm going to go look at the carrier bearing again right now and take some photos. It is dark though.

 

Correct, sorry, I thought you were talking about the fill. Yah, don't unscrew the bolt on the pan.

 

Appears to be relatively centered (maybe 2mm more towards to back). The u-joints appear to be the non-greasable spicer 1310 series (based on white rings). They did say they only had the non-greasable in stock and they actually (supposedly) recommend them more anyways so I said fuck it and went with it.

EDIT: I meant 1330 series...however there's images with blue and white and black rings I can find on the Internet so I'm not sure which is real. They may not be Spicers after all.

 

First thing I notice off hand is that it's upside down. The center drain hole should be on the bottom. Easy fix. Just unbolt it and spin it around. For sure not OEM. Something else looks off can't put my finger on it though???

 

It doesn't look Strait left to right. After you flip it around, tighten bolts hand tight, back off a hair enough so it can slide a little then
jump on the rear bumper a few times to make suspension bounce. It should be roughly strait left to right and centered front to back. Then manually adjust it strait and bolt it down. The drain hole should be on center with driveshaft and the
bearing should be exactly perpendicular to the driveshaft.

 

Yeah it's definitely upside down. I have zero vibes though...is it still possible that this is the source of the noise?

If I do this will this resolve the issue of the driveshaft potentially having been installed back on a lift? Or will I need to loosen other parts too?

 

No you don't have to loosen anything else. Your just trying to get the center bearing, well centered. If the center bearing keeps wanting to sit crooked, or after you center it, the 2 pieces of the driveshaft are not perfectly strait in line, the center bearing may have been pressed on slightly crooked.

 

The carrier bearing has been rotated. Still have the noise. I'm seriously starting to think it's the transmission. If they didn't fill it up properly when doing the flush would these symptoms (rotational squeal on hard acceleration) occur by low or high transmission fluid levels?

 

Just another random thought here; check the nut hidden inside the yolk at that u-joint right aft the center bearing. To replace the center bearing, they have to remove that yolk and I wonder, just wonder, if they didn't get the nut down tight and it's rubbing on the u-joint while turning...

Also, the end caps on the u-joints should tell you all the brand info you need to confirm what was put in there.

Looking up some more information on that center bearing...I'd be highly suspect of it. It's a cheap chinese knockoff...it may say Toyota on it, but I think you might find that it is indeed NOT a Toyota part (my OEM one said Spicer on it) and knowing how the Chinese feel about trademark rules...I'm betting it's the one sold for $0.69...yes 69 cents, online, found by googling that part number.

 

Yes I confronted the first shop about the carrier bearing. Supposedly they are getting with the driveshaft shop for their explanation...I asked for proof that it's a Spicer CB. The U-Joints appear to be Spicer. Here's a pic of that bolt:

 

Squeaky leaf springs?.

 

When I jump up and down on the bumper I may occasionally get a little squeak but nothing crazy. They are fairly worn, however (sags a lot when I load the bed - but I know that's a Tacoma problem already)

 

Welp, nut looks like it's on there right and tight.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-support-bearings.477991/page-4#post-19163551

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...center-support-bearings.477991/#post-14523268

Both of these people purchasing the Spcier 5002007 P/N and having 37235-35030 on the rubber shows me that if you order Spcier 5002007 you'll get that P/N

But if you order the OEM #

$199 37230-0K030 Center Support Bearing Assembly

37230-0K030, it'll say that number on it possibly? Either way, the number I have on mine is definitely not right and likely a fucking $.69 carrier bearing from China like you said.

 

No, you wouldn't be getting squeeking like that if the transmission was under or over filled. You would notice it slipping, not shifting or hard shifting first or maybe sometimes a really high pitched barely noticeable constant wining noise.

Sounds (no pun intended) like it's time to mount some GoPros underneith and take a drive.

 

This would be a little messy, but you could get some spray can lube (not lithium grease!) and locally spray each suspect part one at a time, take a drive, see if it changes. Repeat...

 

It sounds like that is probably what I'm going to have to do (use the GoPro). I also am even more confused by the carrier bearing now: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/page-16#post-18763237

That post the guy has a part number that is Spicer pn#

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing Compatible with Select Toyota Models 1995-2021

211750-1X and it has the exact numbers and font style as mine does on the side. This is NOT a 5002007. However, the dimensions are nearly identical. Screenshot below and full file attached.

 

I still would not rule out that they simply did not press it on strait.